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  •  » Anybody used these Alternators 110 and140amp before off Amazon or Ebay

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    5/19/2023 8:59 AM  #26

    John Ha
    I FYI 24-7

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    From: Mitchell, SD
    Registered: 4/02/2013
    Posts: 754

    Re: Anybody used these Alternators 110 and140amp before off Amazon or Ebay

    TKOPerformance wrote:

    I'm personally not a fan of one wire alternators.  I'd rather have output based on system feedback than by simply reading what the alternator is putting out. 

    I have always had trouble understanding this statement.  With the "one wire" you are sensing the alternator output which is connected to the battery with a heavy-gauge wire (very low ohms per foot).  With the 3-wire, you are sensing battery voltage through a separate, smaller-gauge wire with maybe twice as many ohms per foot as the heavier gauge wire going directly to the battery.

    So for all intents and purposes, it seems to me that there isn't really any difference between the two alternator "sensing" configurations, other than one being much simpler and requiring fewer wires than the other.

    As far as the issue of using a GM part on a Ford - it's not any different than using a Chinese, Argentinian, Mexican, or aftermarket (e.g., Scott Drake) part on your car.  We all have them, whether we want them or not. 

    Last edited by John Ha (5/19/2023 9:00 AM)

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    5/19/2023 4:43 PM  #27

    Nos681
    Senior 24-7 FYI Addict

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    From: Atlantic Mine, Michigan
    Registered: 7/14/2016
    Posts: 3,067

    Re: Anybody used these Alternators 110 and140amp before off Amazon or Ebay

    Not everyone that uses a one wire alternator connects at the battery, especially if battery is relocated to rear of vehicle.

    Most will use the start solenoid in engine compartment and run a battery cable to the trunk.

    If cable to trunk battery has high resistance, the charging voltage at battery would be less full alternator output.  This is the potential issue…pun intended.

    I have used the factory 3 wire 1G, delco 1 wire 10si (100 amp), and factory 3 wire 3G (130 amps).

    My wife’s truck still has the factory 3 wire 1G alternator with no problems.
    Headlights, stereo, and heater blower motor are the largest loads….that’s pretty much only loads.

     

    5/20/2023 4:44 AM  #28

    TKOPerformance
    Hyper FYIFORD ADDICT

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    From: Newark, DE
    Registered: 12/15/2014
    Posts: 7,101

    Re: Anybody used these Alternators 110 and140amp before off Amazon or Ebay

    The concern over feedback wire size and resistance is valid, but in the end the real question with a one wire vs. a multi wire alternator is who built it.  A quality one wire alternator built by a good company is going to be fine.  Would I trust the offshore ones?  No more than I trust their brake rotors, etc., so no. 

    Also, typically you can buy a multi wire alternator from the local parts store, Rock Auto, etc. for significantly less than a fancy one wire, AND have the ability to replace it with an off the shelf part in the event of a failure far from home. 

    As for using a GM part on a Ford being the same as using aftermarket parts, I disagree.  The aftermarket parts are designed to have the same appearance as the factory Ford part, and to many of us aesthetics matter.  Were this not the case no one would be so vehemently opposed to running an Edlebrock carb on a Ford instead of a Holley or Autolite based solely on the fact that it just doesn't look right in their eyes. 
     

     

    5/31/2023 6:33 PM  #29

    coachJack
    Active Member

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    Registered: 5/23/2017
    Posts: 6

    Re: Anybody used these Alternators 110 and140amp before off Amazon or Ebay

    "I have always had trouble understanding this statement.  With the "one wire" you are sensing the alternator output which is connected to the battery with a heavy-gauge wire (very low ohms per foot).  With the 3-wire, you are sensing battery voltage through a separate, smaller-gauge wire with maybe twice as many ohms per foot as the heavier gauge wire going directly to the battery.

    So for all intents and purposes, it seems to me that there isn't really any difference between the two alternator "sensing" configurations, other than one being much simpler and requiring fewer wires than the other."

    There is a huge difference in sensing the battery voltage directly from the battery in a one wire system and that of a three wire system because the three wire system senses voltage NOT
    directly at the battery but in stock form, it senses the voltage at the main junction splice which ties into not just the battery (source) but the accessories (sinks) as well. The three wire system will be able to adjust the alternator output based on the electrical load put on the system. Remember, your alternator should be outputting between 13.7 volts up to 14.3 volts (depending on load) whereas a fully charged battery registers roughly 12.6 volts. 

    For a highly modified system (ie: trunk mounted batteries, fuel injection, aftermarket ignition systems, electrical fans, electric fuel pumps etc ...) it is imperative that you place the voltage sensing wire so that the load is properly factored into the charging solution. 

    Coach Jack

     

     

     

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