I'm assuming you capped the vacuum line for the advance after it was disconnected.

Yes, I capped off the vacuum advance line after it was disconnected. I don't have a carb spacer but it is something to consider. I tried to make the carb run more rich by opening both screws about 1/8 turn each so the next time I take it for a spin I will see if it runs better or worse. I know my mechanic had originally set the timing to 6 degrees TDC which is the spec but from what most Stangers say, it is better to run more than that. That is why I am at 13 and I don't know what the total timing would be with the vacuum advance connected.

Thanks for the warm welcome to the board, I really appreciate it. I also appreciate all the vast experience that fellow Mustangers have because usually if you have  problem, someone else has had  Similar one.

Norm

Thanks for replying Bullet Bob. So, to make the carb run richer I should turn the screws in 1/8 turn at a time? Not on this board but I have seen conflicting info on which way to go with the 2100 carb to make it run more rich. I had to replace the original carb which was a real "frankenstein" with vacumm lines running all over the place. It wasn't a 2100 and I think they just tried to adapt any 2 barrel carb on my 289 engine so when it started running poorly I decided to go back to sqare one and put the carb that the car was supposed to have in 1967

Norm
 

My first advice on timing would be verify that TDC on the balancer is actually TDC.  Ford used at least 4 different timing locations on the small block over the years.  If your engine ended up with a different balancer your timing could be 60 degrees off without you knowing, and yes, it would probably run surprisingly well like that because the compression in these engines is pretty low and the cam is pretty small.

Once you verify that you can set base timing.  Base timing has to consider total mechanical advance, so you need to know what that is.  The easiest way is with a balancer with a bunch of timing marks, or with a timing tape on it.  You can also use a dial back timing light.  You want no more than 38-42 degrees total mechanical advance.  You also want that advance all in by 3,000RPM.  If it takes to long to come in you can change the advance springs.  If you aren't getting more than like 18 degrees of mechanical advance you can probably pull the distributor and change which slot the advance arm is in (there are two, like 9 & 13 for example with total advance being twice the number).  You probably don't want to run like 20 degrees initial advance and the engine will run better with less initial lead and more mechanical than the other way around. 

Once that's done set your idle mixture screws using a vacuum gauge.

Another thing to consider is that you can easily run 87 or 89 octane in it.  Higher octane fuel tends to go bad from sitting faster, and won't help performance (actually it will hurt it because its harder to ignite). 

Once you are sure its in a proper state of tune you can start troubleshooting if problems persist.  Obviously you want to make sure you have no vacuum leaks, and that your plugs are good and gaped properly.  If the wires are old its a good time to replace them too, ditto the cap and rotor. 
 

Retard the timing two degrees. They idle better with less advance.
Set idle mixture screws using screwdriver to obtain best idle.  It does not matter which way you turn them, richer or leaner, just turn until best idle is achieved. Clockwise is leaner, but it doesn’t matter. Just turn until “best” is achieved.

Last edited by MS (9/08/2023 12:32 PM)

Is the electric choke working?
With the engine 'hot', and idling, the choke plate should wide open.  
Also, make sure the choke idle speed screw isn't interfering with the normal speed (off choke) idle screw setting. 

Okay, I stand corrected and I apologize for offering bad info.  On most pots that I've had to deal with opening the idle screws leans the idle mixture, or at least that's what I thought was happening.  Maybe this is why I run EFI and don't mess with dripping pots anymore.
Sorry Norm.  But welcome to the best place on the web.

BB1