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10/22/2023 10:42 AM  #26


Re: This is very interesting

MS wrote:

TKOPerformance wrote:

MS wrote:


In my opinion, drilling through the head of a 1/4” bolt will lessen its clamping ability. I have never heard of an oil pump coming apart. Heck, you and I are probably the only people around that even check the torque on those bolts when installing a new pump. Since there is no gasket to compress, you rely on the stretched condition of the bolt to hold the torque. And they just NEVER back out.
If your logic holds, you should safety wire all the lug nuts on your wheels. They see alot more stress trying to undo the nuts than an oil pump cover would ever see.

Difference is that I rotate my tires periodically and torque the lug nuts.  I don't ever drop the oil pan and check those pump bolts.  Heh, you are probably right about us being the only people who actually check the torque though..
 

Ok, then… what about your rod bolts and main cap bolts? And especially the cam thrust plate bolts?
Those never get wired. I have heard of rod bolts letting loose, but usually the failure is along the parting line. Cam thrust plate gets slot of stress.
I still maintain it is a waste of time, especially on an oil pump. Do you safety wire the bolts from the pump to the block? Or between pickup and pump? And God forbid your fuel pump might rattle loose!

I do pickup to pump, pump to block, and cover to pump.  Sure, ultimately any fastener inside an engine can come loose with catastrophic consequences.  However, In a performance build all those fasteners are ARP.  I follow their instructions to the letter and assume they know what they are doing as the premiere producer of high performance automotive hardware.  I've yet to see or hear of a properly installed ARP bolt failing.  I've seen a handful of stock connecting rods with ARP bolts at my machine shop where the beam of the rod failed, but the bolts didn't let go.  I always use red Locktite on the cam thrust plate bolts on engines so equipped.  The heads on those bolts are typically thin and would be hard to safety wire.  In the end, is it overkill?  Oh, almost certainly, but IMO overkill is underrated.  A waste of time?  Well, that depends on the person.  I won't place a value on your time, and would ask you to do me the same courtesy.  Some things in the end we get in the habit of doing and continue to do because they've always "worked".  Its like the OCD person flipping the lights on and off 5 times when they enter a room to keep the world from ending.  Hard habit to break because it "works" for them. 

 

10/22/2023 1:05 PM  #27


Re: This is very interesting

Just to add my two-cents, the 289 race motor I had many years ago had the two cam thrust plate bolts start to remove themselves, luckily we had the engine apart for other reasons when we found it.  Used Loctite and never had any issue again.  


65 Fastback, 351W, 5-speed, 4 wheel discs, 9" rear,  R&C Front End.
 

10/30/2023 12:30 PM  #28


Re: This is very interesting

 
I just might be willing to try one. $2,499 with free shipping. They are not yet available, though, according to the web site. I need to find if (the web site contains asterisks) new length axles and driveshaft are required. Small print says so, and I have an expensive set of axles and custom aluminum drive shaft. Replacing those will add at least $1,000 to the swap. Probably not doable if that is required.
I am justifying this purchase based on the fact I have a pile of expensive rear ends I could sell to easily equal the price of the 8.8 conversion.  Once Detroit Speed notifies me they have them available, and my driveshaft and axle questions are answered, I can make a final decision.
Thanks for bringing this product to my attention.

Anybody need a nice 9” rear end?  I have an aluminum 3.70/31 spline traction lock 1350 yoke and a nodular 3.50/31 spline Eaton Tru-Track 1350 and a standard 3.00/28 spline open 1310 and a standard 2.75/28 spline open1310 yoke


Money you enjoy wasting is NOT wasted money... unless your wife finds out.
 

Board footera


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