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Ssffhh$$$$. Is what I got to say about that. We have been trying to drive it more.
I know its charging ok, but there must be some kind of parasitic drain on the thing.
One symptom came up. It periodically keeps saying key fob not detected, even if its in your hand. Yes, first thing I did was replace the two batteries in the fob itself.
Kind of wishing I'd have taken that offer right now...
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I feel your pain. I have 5 vehicles and it seems like I have to buy a battery every year or so. They just don't last like they used to. You might get a couple years out of them. The best thing is to have one of those trickle chargers on a vehicle that sits for a while, because the worse thing is to let one go completely discharged. seems like they are pretty much toast after that.
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Id second the trickle charger.
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Battery barely three weeks old. I just drove it a week ago. I have it on the charger right now. It had 1.27 volts.
Wife was going to drive it to work this morning so I could change the oil in her Jeep.
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Have you gone through the process of pulling fuses one at a time to see if you can isolate where the drain might be?
On my BMW and on my Durango R/T, they both started that “fob not found” thing. Replacing with a new starting battery cured both of them. I realize you already bought a new battery. I wonder if it would be worth having the new battery checked? Also, both these cars were stated to require a computer reset when a new battery was installed. I did that on the BMW, but on the Durango I just hooked up my battery charger to the system so it never lost power when I replaced the battery. It worked fine.
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I have trickle chargers on 3 of my 4 rigs. I sware by them as I went 18 yrs with a yellow top just by using the cheap one, truck would sit for 4 mounths and get drivin for couple days then get parked again. Never have bought an exspensive one. I got the last 2 on Amazon for $40. Here is a link
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I just went out and checked on it. It seems to be accepting a charge, so not pointing towards the battery.
I'm going to try and download a schematic so I can dig into the 247 fuses and relays the thing seems to have. Lol. Start diagnosing once I know I have a good battery. I don't have my stand up charger with a load tester anymore. Probably pull it out and find d someone to test it.
Modern cars are too darn complicated!
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my last optima lasted 18 years on my 66 so I bough a new one for the 65....I still have the old one I charged it but did not put it on anything I may charge it again an swap it on my old hunting truck when it needs one...I got what appears to be a new Diehard that was on the 65 when I got it....my swap it for the new interstate I just put on my suburban if i sell it soon and keep the interstate lol
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Greg B – the battery voltage reduced to 1.27v is very severe, if nothing else has changed, I’d suspect a bad battery. There could be a short within the battery. Note that even a bad battery may take a charge, but the charge may not last for long (if there is an internal short).
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I ordered a Schumacher load tester on Amazon. It isn't going to be here till tomorrow.
I can't/didn't find any obvious draws on current.
It is currently running. I drove it yesterday. Unceremoniously turned over 25,000 miles.
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If a completely disconnected fully charged battery doesn’t hold a charge for a week or two my guess is it has an internal problem.
I personally don’t expect any battery to last more than five years, if you get more it’s a bonus.
These days everything seems to have a finite life, the manufacturers must install a microchip that has a chronometer set to disable the device after a certain period of time.
I like conspiracy theories, even though I don’t believe many of them.🤪
Last edited by Rudi (11/05/2023 11:39 AM)
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The issue with batteries is the overuse of recycled lead. The impurities contained in it lead to early failure. If you want long life your best bet now is AGM instead of lead/acid.
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