| ||
Visit MustangSteve's web site to view some of my work and find details for: FYIFORD Contributors' PICTURES - Power Brake Retrofit Kits for 65-66 Stangs - Classic Mustang FAQ's by MustangSteve - How to wire in a Duraspark Ignition - Mustang Ride Height Pictures and Descriptions - Steel Bushings to fit Granada Spindles to Mustang Tie Rods - Visit my EBAY store MustangSteve Performance - How to Install Granada Disc Brakes MustangSteve's Disc Brake Swap Page - FYIFORD Acronyms for guide to all the acronyms used on this page - FYIFORD Important information and upcoming events |
Offline
I did my due diligence and attempted a back search on topics, as I'm certain this was discussed at some point, but couldn't find it. There are many, many, many opinions out there on this AND automotive articles to back both sides. That said, I'm looking for actual experience if you have it...
1969 Mustang Coupe, 351w, EFI, currently running a 20" Champion aluminum, 2-core, 180° stat, heavy duty 5 blade mechanical fan with shroud.
I replaced the old worn out stock with an aluminum as I was overheating anytime I'd stop in traffic. Been running the new system for over a year and it sits at 185-190° religiously. The other day I got stuck at a very long light, 90° outside, and I creeped to 223° before the light changed. That said, I do not have heat or A/C and plan to install Vintage Air at some point in the near future. I see another cooling upgrade in my future. This time, going with 24". The question, what cools better, as I never want to be in this place again: 3-core or 4-core? I'll be adding two 11" SPAL electric fans with shroud.
Thanks!
Offline
A two row aluminum 24” with proper shroud and fan is best. I have this one in my 69 with 331 stroker and AC.
Offline
My 66 has a 347 and the Spal setup with the two fans and shroud. Started with a big block radiator and in about 2 years it developed a pinhole leak. I put in a Champion 24 inch 4 row that lasted about 15 years. The four row never overheated, but I am in California on the coast.
About 3 years ago, when the four row developed a leak, I put in a 24 inch Champion three row. In stop and go traffic for 45 minutes in Los Angeles at 105 degrees, the car did get hot, but did not overheat. I use the stock temperature gauge, so I cannot provide an actual temperature. Note that I do not have a stone guard on my car. I don't think it would make any difference, but I haven't tested that theory.
Offline
A three row ( ugly top tank ) Champion 24” , mechanical direct drive 15” 5 blade fan, custom shroud, 180 stat, Classic auto air has been on my 331 for close to 15 years or more.
I have never seen it go over 200 and stays mostly at 180 except for the very hottest summer days running the A/C.
The same set up but with a 16” Spal and no shroud it would run over 200 regularly
If you are dead set on an electric set up, the go to fans seem to be the dual Ford Contour system.
Last edited by Rudi (6/03/2024 9:50 AM)
Offline
This is the one I just purchased for my 65 convertible. I have the same one in my 69, using 69 shroud and five blade 17” fan. They sell it with lower hose on either side. It clamps in place using a 67 top bracket and “make your own “ lower brackets or the original 67 lower brackets. No ugly square top tank
Offline
That’s a nice looking rad and great price as well. I paid about 70 bucks more ages ago. At the time I couldn’t find any formed tanks unless you bought the Griffin or other big buck rads.
Mine is a three row, I wonder performance wise difference the two row is
Did I mention how much I hate the square top tank.🤬
Offline
Thank you all. I appreciate this. boss347convertible appears the 4 core did cool better for you, compared.
Offline
NKey149 wrote:
Thank you all. I appreciate this. boss347convertible appears the 4 core did cool better for you, compared.
As expected, the 4 core ran cooler.
Offline
Rudi wrote:
That’s a nice looking rad and great price as well. I paid about 70 bucks more ages ago. At the time I couldn’t find any formed tanks unless you bought the Griffin or other big buck rads.
Mine is a three row, I wonder performance wise difference the two row is
Did I mention how much I hate the square top tank.🤬
I researched this years ago and row count alone can be deceptive. Cooling is done by surface area and effective air circulation. If a radiator can do that with 2 rows its fine, if it can't do it with 4 its not. 4 row radiators for example were huge years ago, but the companies I talked to said the issue you had was that the first three rows basically got all the airflow, and the radiating heat from the rows in front of that 4th row acted like a thermal curtain to prevent heat exchange. Most aluminum radiators I've seen are two row, but they use larger tubes, so the tube surface area is likely the same or greater than a 3 row with smaller tubes. Fin design is another key factor. When companies are selling something they tend to extol its "virtues" and give only the information which makes their product seem like the best. Point being, I wouldn't assume a 3 row is better than a 2 row. First hand experience from someone you trust is always the best way to make an informed decision IMO.
Offline
I’ll add to TKO’s posting. Regarding 2, 3 or 4-core radiators, one needs to look at the width of the tubes. My 2-core radiator (Aluminum Radiator: Summit SUM-380461, Manufactured by “Northern”), has two 1” wide tubes. A 3, or 4-core may have 0.5” wide tubes.
Check the overall depth of the radiator, that will tell what the tube widths are (mine is 2.25”).
Offline
The Griffin in my 66 (same basic design as the one pictured) has two rows but is 1/2" thicker core than the one in the picture. And about $650 difference in price...
Offline
I went with a Champion 3 core instead of a 4 for most of the reasons listed above. I had the same thoughts about not getting enough flow with 4 core and evaporator.
Overall thickness was a concern too. The extra row could be eating needed space for fans. I’ve heard lots of good things about Spal and the Contour set up.
Is there a need for an auto transmission cooler?
Offline
Bolted to Floor wrote:
Overall thickness was a concern too. The extra row could be eating needed space for fans. I’ve heard lots of good things about Spal and the Contour set up.
FYI - The radiator I used (see above post), and the Spal electric fan I installed, left about 3/8" space from the nose of the water pump to the fan.
Offline
Bolted to Floor wrote:
I went with a Champion 3 core instead of a 4 for most of the reasons listed above. I had the same thoughts about not getting enough flow with 4 core and evaporator.
Overall thickness was a concern too. The extra row could be eating needed space for fans. I’ve heard lots of good things about Spal and the Contour set up.
Is there a need for an auto transmission cooler?
The preferred method for a trans cooler is radiator tank cooler with an auxiliary cooler. So if you have an auto I would keep it plumbed that way.
REMEMBER!!! When posting a question about your Mustang or other Ford on this forum, BE SURE to tell us what it is, what year, engine, etc so we have enough information to go on. |