FYI FORD - MustangSteve's Ford Mustang Forum
The Internet's Most Knowledgeable Classic Mustang Information
IF YOU HAVE A QUESTION ABOUT CLASSIC FORD MUSTANGS, YOU HAVE COME TO THE RIGHT PLACE!
MustangSteve has over 30 years of Mustang experience, having owned 30 of them and restored several others. With the help of other Mustangers, this site is dedicated to helping anyone wanting to restore or modify their Mustang.... THERE ARE NO DUMB QUESTIONS!!!!!
Visit MustangSteve's web site to view some of my work and find details for:
FYIFORD Contributors' PICTURES - Power Brake Retrofit Kits for 65-66 Stangs - Classic Mustang FAQ's by MustangSteve - How to wire in a Duraspark Ignition - Mustang Ride Height Pictures and Descriptions - Steel Bushings to fit Granada Spindles to Mustang Tie Rods - Visit my EBAY store MustangSteve Performance - How to Install Granada Disc Brakes MustangSteve's Disc Brake Swap Page - FYIFORD Acronyms for guide to all the acronyms used on this page - FYIFORD Important information and upcoming events

You are not logged in. Would you like to login or register?

9/16/2013 2:36 PM  #1


Upper Control Arm Bolts Hitting Headers

Hey guys, long time lurker/learner from this great site!  I have a 64.5 Coupe with an 80s roller 302 and Hooker headers.  A few years ago I installed some used Global West upper control arms with a Dazecars Arning drop.  The bolts on the drivers side have been severely hitting the headers and have caused deep dents into them.  I am in the process of installing some used Tri-Ys I picked up on Craigslist cheap, and was debating how to remedy the control arm bolt situation.  I've placed the Tri-Y on the passenger side and it looks like there will be more space them.  I've unbolted the the drivers side hooker header, but need to jack the engine up to be able to get it out since its wedged by the upper control arm bolts.  I would like to avoid the bolt issue with the Tri-Ys going in, what options do I have?  Also, why does it seem like the engine is closer to the driver side shock tower?  Thanks!

-Art

 

 

9/16/2013 2:47 PM  #2


Re: Upper Control Arm Bolts Hitting Headers

What motor mounts are you running?  Are you still running the original style or did you upgrade to the later 66 mounts?  Mount deterioration might cause the motor to shift to one side.  The less likely but possible scenario is that you have some shock tower sag causing the shock tower(s) to move towards the engine.  Are you running an export brace and monte carlo bar?  I know that the 65 cars can be swapped over to the later 66 mounts but am not sure if this applies to 64-1/2.

 

9/16/2013 3:13 PM  #3


Re: Upper Control Arm Bolts Hitting Headers

I have the 65 mounts.  I just googled 65/66 mounts and read that 66 mounts are recommended.  I'll install some since they are $9.99 at my locl O'Reillys.  I have both a montecarlo bar and export brace.

     Thread Starter
 

9/16/2013 3:21 PM  #4


Re: Upper Control Arm Bolts Hitting Headers

The mounts are cheap but the brackets are not.  Although of mediocre quality I think I bought a "kit" from CJ Pony.  The brackets and mounts fully replace the units you now have.  If you get these, fit all the bolts and clearance all through holes before you install them.  Mine needed some attention with a rat-tail file.  I have read several posts about trimming the bolts for the UCA.  As long as you leave enough for alignment shims you can cut them for a little more clearance.  Others can comment on the tri-y's regarding fit.  If the various bars that are installed fit without excessive force and you still have your lower cross-member, your towers are probably OK.  Any evidence that the car has ever been hit?

 

9/16/2013 4:09 PM  #5


Re: Upper Control Arm Bolts Hitting Headers

Ok so I would need new brackets.  Maybe I can find a used original set.  I do not see any evidence of severe collision damage (I also still have the engine crossmember installed).  I suspect because the suspension setup I installed (Global West upper control arms, Arning drop, Rosehill adjustable strut rod) didn't need any alignment shims to align properly, the bolts now protrude a lot more into the engine bay thus hitting the headers.  I didn't have this issue prior to the suspension overhaul.  Do I need to remove the control arms to cut the bolts, or can it be done with them installed and the engine still in the bay (headers removed)?  

     Thread Starter
 

9/16/2013 4:25 PM  #6


Re: Upper Control Arm Bolts Hitting Headers

I think Steve just installed Global West UCA's so he will be the better resource.  I seem to remember a comment about the long bolts.  If you are able to make the cut with the arms installed, make sure you tape off your exhast ports because one or more of the valves may be open.  Good luck!  

 

9/16/2013 7:20 PM  #7


Re: Upper Control Arm Bolts Hitting Headers

If the front end is already aligned, a hacksaw or sawzall blade will make quick work of the bolts.  You should install a good Scott Drake concours export brace if you do not have an original.  Even most of the Chinese ones with the shallow stamping do not help any at all.  They do not offer the rigiduty of one with the deep stamped vertical walls on the arms of the brace.  A good one like the Ford or Scott Drake concours will help hold the shock towers in line.  My car's shock towers shfted over 1/2" while sitting for several months with no export brace installed..

If you have a bolt that is CLOSE or barely touching a header tube, there is a simple way to dent it without hammering directly on it.  Fold a 6" long by 1" wide piece of 20 gauge sheet metal in half, so it makes two 3" long leafs.  Place that with the fold facing down between the two parts.  Drive a 1" wide wood chisel or other approporiate wedge shape into the fold and it will move metal without having to hammer on the parts.  Once you get the chisel in there, then pull it and the sheetmetal out and you have a nice gap now.


Money you enjoy wasting is NOT wasted money... unless your wife finds out.
 

Board footera


REMEMBER!!! When posting a question about your Mustang or other Ford on this forum, BE SURE to tell us what it is, what year, engine, etc so we have enough information to go on.