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2/22/2025 12:03 AM  #1


Hello advise on miller 141

Ive owned my welder maybe 9yrs. Ive never had a problem with getting porosity in the weld that visible after sanding the weld. And when I say weld I am refering to almost just spot weld or heavy tack. Sometimes the spots have a small y shape in them and then if I sand it then is end of the Y is a slight porosity spot in the weld almost as if it has a contaminate in the weld. I think I have a small short in my thorch trigger. Or wiring at the connector at the machine. The welder I bought brand new.

For my welding set up I have my 141 er70s6 I believe wire but it could be er70s7. I bought a new bottom drive Replacement drive wheel but havent yet installed it. My sheilding gas is believe is 75/25.  I have replaced my liner with a correct size liner for my 0.23 wire.  I noticed some times the drive wheel doesnt like to feed or seems like its getting stuck.  I did buy a new generic replacment torch hopefully I dont regret that purchase.  My welder has been holding me up, along with my horrible dehibilitating chronic pain. It was horrible before for years. Then recently I changed jobs and injured my back at work. My supervisor that was standing in for my main manager who was on vacation never submitted a workers comp.  Not I hate to even have them do that but I ended up herniating 1 disc thats on top of my other two previous herniated discs now they pinch my ciatic nerve even more then it was before the injury happened. 

Are arc welding welds alot harder then mig welds typically the guy who put in my drivers side floor pan that I removed due to the repair.  The welds that he did on the inner rocker are so hard its crazy. Ive been going at them with 36 on some flap discs I guess I need to get some 24grit Resin fiber discs for my big boy grinder and see if that will take the welds down. The 36 hasnt sanded the welds very much. They are over the floor flange. Dang its annoying taking down hard bird dropping welds. Any suggestions on the welder would be very appreciated. I do have a long cord but I think its more then capable. Its a 10 gauge and I have my own circuit breaker.

 

2/22/2025 6:51 AM  #2


Re: Hello advise on miller 141

Porosity to me would indicate that the shielding gas isn't doing its job properly.  It sounds like you are getting contaminants in the puddle.  Is the torch head and shroud clean?  The shroud over time gets packed up with back spatter and has to be cleaned.  I coat mine with anti spatter spray to make cleaning it easier.

I'd also be inclined to look at the regulator.  Are you sure you have gas?  The regulator could be stuck showing it has gas, but really doesn't.  You can check flow by removing the wire and putting a plastic bag over the nozzle and pulling the trigger. 

What I've found with drive wheels in these machines, especially as they get older is that the torch line needs to be as straight as possible.  Any hard kinks will tend to cause a jam.  You can change the wheel, but its not going to matter if the torch line is kinked.

Arc welding is considerably more difficult than MIG welding.  I learned to arc weld first.  It a slower process than requires more skill, especially on sheet metal.  Arc starting is the hardest thing to learn.  I reserve arc welding for thick metal.  My MIG will handle anything up to 1/4", or even 5/16", possibly 3/8" with the right wire and proper material prep.  I rarely weld anything thicker than 1/4" 

 

2/22/2025 7:40 AM  #3


Re: Hello advise on miller 141

Yep.  I have a little Lincoln welder that had a problem with wire feeding consistently.  It turned out the liner had a small link in it.  New liner fixed that problem.   Funny, my cheap azz, Northern Tool inverter welder has always been smooth as butter.  That said: things to check...

That your actually getting shielding gas flow, and how much.  Want enough but not need to overdo it.
The polarity is set properly.
Check your wire.  Wire "gets old" just like anything else.  What I mean by old is a haze forms on the wire as it ages.  Need clean wire.

Tip: once you get things figured out and your setup working properly, what I do is use a piece of scothbrite on one of those hf PLASTIC clamps around the wire as it exits the spool, and before the drive wheels.  To clean the wire.

https://www.race-dezert.com/forum/threads/quick-welding-help-please-substitute-for-mig-wire-cleaning-lube.69433/

Last edited by Greg B (2/22/2025 7:44 AM)


If multiple things can go wrong, the one that will go wrong will be the one that causes the most damage.
 

2/22/2025 10:53 AM  #4


Re: Hello advise on miller 141

Ya, old wire can get contamination and rust on it. Also try to buy not Chinese wire. If your cylinder has been sitting vertical for years, lay it down horizontally on your garage floor and roll it a bit.


Bob. 69 Mach 1, 393W, SMOD Toploader, Armstrong  steering, factory AC.
 

2/22/2025 12:07 PM  #5


Re: Hello advise on miller 141

Quite a few years ago I bought a Lincoln SP100 mig welder. Great machine, light small and 120 volt input. Easy portability. I often set it up on the lathe in my basement to do robot looking welds on round stuff. It lives in my shop here at the house (In Michigan). I noticed the first winter I had it that I started having issues with wire feeding. I talked to a old timer welder at work and the first question out of his mouth was what kind of wire do you use? By kind, he wanted to know brand. By then I had used up the stuff that came with the welder and had who knows what in it. He said go back to Lincoln wire and you will be happier. So I took the wire wiper things the local guy sold me off and went back to the Lincoln wire. Many years later here I am with Lincoln wire. That little welder keeps on making me happy. I remember many times looking at that guys welder after he told me that and yep every time I looked it was Lincoln wire.
It just doesn't rust like all the other stuff I was trying to use and it makes great looking welds.

 

2/23/2025 6:36 PM  #6


Re: Hello advise on miller 141

Paint/oil/rust on the base material will also make porosity in the weld. (and low/no gas coverage..from high wind/fan in shop)
If it ain't structural...a dab of porosity ain't the end of the world.
You can 'cheat' and TIG some stainless over the weld and "fill-in" the porosity holes.
Several coats of paint will make the porosity laden beads look better...so will RTV !!!
Hardness of the weld beads....?!!  Maybe stick welds are harder 'cause they are harder to make !
Welds that are "eat-up" with porosity are EZ'er to grind because.... they are 50% holes!!
Stainless weld beads ARE HARD !!!
6sally6


Get busy Liv'in or get busy Die'n....Host of the 2020 Bash at the Beach/The only Bash that got cancelled  )8
 

Board footera


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