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Anybody got one on their car? did it work good for you?
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Yes and yes.
I have a carb cheater which is like a wideband with the ability to self tune (within limits).
I also have a wideband rigged up to a cigarette lighter so it can be swapped from vehicle to vehicle for tuning.
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I have one on my 66. Allows perfect carb tune
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I would like to hear more about these.
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What exactly would you like to hear that is different from installing an instrument that will provide real time AFR data? I've had mine in for years now and I always know how the carburetor is doing. They are an inexpensive way of actually knowing the AFR. The only reason I would not put one in would be if I were not going to be running a carburetor. And even then an O2 sensor would need to be installed for the EFI.
(By the way, mine is an AEM 30-0300 X-Series)
Edit: In December of 2017, mine cost $179. The current price on Amazon for the same one is $189. Only $10 higher after 7 years.
Last edited by Rufus68 (3/12/2025 8:20 PM)
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Rufus68 wrote:
What exactly would you like to hear that is different from installing an instrument that will provide real time AFR data? I've had mine in for years now and I always know how the carburetor is doing. They are an inexpensive way of actually knowing the AFR. The only reason I would not put one in would be if I were not going to be running a carburetor. And even then an O2 sensor would need to be installed for the EFI.
(By the way, mine is an AEM 30-0300 X-Series)
Edit: In December of 2017, mine cost $179. The current price on Amazon for the same one is $189. Only $10 higher after 7 years.
I saw some AEM 30-0300 x-series on ebay even cheaper not sure if they are real may be a knock off.
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MS wrote:
I have one on my 66. Allows perfect carb tune
What kind are you running?
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BILLY WALTON from GEORGIA wrote:
Rufus68 wrote:
What exactly would you like to hear that is different from installing an instrument that will provide real time AFR data? I've had mine in for years now and I always know how the carburetor is doing. They are an inexpensive way of actually knowing the AFR. The only reason I would not put one in would be if I were not going to be running a carburetor. And even then an O2 sensor would need to be installed for the EFI.
(By the way, mine is an AEM 30-0300 X-Series)
Edit: In December of 2017, mine cost $179. The current price on Amazon for the same one is $189. Only $10 higher after 7 years.I saw some AEM 30-0300 x-series on ebay even cheaper not sure if they are real may be a knock off.
I looked on eBay and saw a higher price for new kits with the O2 sensor. Don't buy used and be sure you get the proper O2 sensor with whatever AFR kit you buy. Remember it is the O2 sensor that provides the data. The rest of the kit is the display.
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Billy - If you are interested, I have an un-used “Innovate Motorsports 3918 MTX, AFR Gauge” that is 4 years-old, and was never installed as I went to an EFI setup that has an AFR readout.
I’m sure we work something out if you’re interested, PM me.
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Thanks BobE I will see about getting that installed and carb set.
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Thank you Billy and good luck with the tuning.
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I hope so
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Hopefully I will get my carb and valve covers on this week and the AFR gauge hooked up.
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The reviews I've read on AEM are spotty. I stick with Innovative.
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I bought the AEM unit last year. What I read is you want to be around 14.7 for the best fuel burn. My engine seemed to run better and stronger around 12.5 to 13. Even at idle 12.50 seemed to run and idle better. Running a vacuum gauge 12.5 was the maxed vacuum also at idle.
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14.7 is stoichiometric ratio for air and fuel, meaning at that ratio, all things being 100% perfect, all the fuel will combust. Now, an engine NEVER operates with anything being 100% perfect, and this also doesn't take into account things like the dynamic reality of how an engine operates. You won't make good power at 14.7:1, and the engine won't accelerate very well at 14.7:1. Max power is typically made more like 12-12.5:1. You might save some gas by going to 15:1 at cruising speeds. Its a balancing act. Also, the only real way to gauge what's going on is to data log a run and then look at it. A good wideband reacts so fast that by the time you see what's on the gauge its already at a totally different spot. EFI takes readings from the O2 a bunch of times a second to make fueling changes. Your eye starts to fail if things happen faster than about 1/8th of a second. So you're trying to take a snapshot and interpolate where your A/F ratio needs to be, which is less than ideal. If you data log you can see the actual fuel curve. Couple that to a dyno or a dragstrip and you can start to see how adding or subtracting fuel along that curve improves or reduces power. Like a lot of things, an AFR gauge is a tool. Tools are good for what they can tell you, but they are still limited by what they can tell you.
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There is a lot of info on AFR on the internet.
Here is something from Summit:
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BobE wrote:
There is a lot of info on AFR on the internet.
Here is something from Summit:
Thanks for posting BobE
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Steve69 wrote:
BobE wrote:
There is a lot of info on AFR on the internet.
Here is something from Summit:
Thanks for posting BobE
Hope it is helpful, good luck.
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