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  •  » Replace wheel studs on 2007 GT

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    4/09/2013 4:32 PM  #1

    MS
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    From: Canyon Lake, Texas
    Registered: 1/24/2013
    Posts: 12,155

    Replace wheel studs on 2007 GT

    Anyone ever replaced studs on a 2007 Mustang GT?  I figure it is just like any other hub and axle job, but if anyone has any advice, I am open.  I assume I will have to pull that nut requiring 250 lb/ft torqu on the front hubs.  I am hoping I can get the longer studs in the rear without having to pull the axles, but I do not have a on-the-car press tool to remove the old ones. Any suggestions?  Hammering them is certainly out of the question as it will ruin the bearings.

    I am putting some lowering springs on the car, new shocks, strut mounts, 1/2" wheel spacers and the 14" Brembo front brakes.  Will put new rotors and pads in the rear.  The 1/2" spacers require the longer studs, and the spacers are so the brakes will clear the wheels.

    This is all part of the 100,000 mile makeover.  I still cannot believe stock original brake pads still look good...  My plan is to also install 3.70 rear gears, a cold air kit and an electronic tune.  Then I am going to leave it alone and just drive it.  No...really...  That is all.... 

    Money you enjoy wasting is NOT wasted money... unless your wife finds out.
     

    4/09/2013 4:37 PM  #2

    lowercasesteve
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    From: Auburn, Ca
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    Re: Replace wheel studs on 2007 GT

    I have no idea about the wheel studs.  I just want to ask that you keep us up on the project.  I am particularly interested the the process of changing springs on these late models. I want to do the same at some future time.

    What?  You can't do 250 lb-ft of torque by your self?   simple task.  10 ft breaker bar

    Last edited by lowercasesteve (4/09/2013 4:42 PM)

    Original owner - 351w,T-5, 4whl disks, power R&P
     

    4/09/2013 5:40 PM  #3

    DC
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    From: Marshall, MI
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    Re: Replace wheel studs on 2007 GT

    MustangSteve wrote:

    Anyone ever replaced studs on a 2007 Mustang GT?  I figure it is just like any other hub and axle job, but if anyone has any advice, I am open.  I assume I will have to pull that nut requiring 250 lb/ft torqu on the front hubs.  I am hoping I can get the longer studs in the rear without having to pull the axles, but I do not have a on-the-car press tool to remove the old ones. Any suggestions?  Hammering them is certainly out of the question as it will ruin the bearings.

    I am putting some lowering springs on the car, new shocks, strut mounts, 1/2" wheel spacers and the 14" Brembo front brakes.  Will put new rotors and pads in the rear.  The 1/2" spacers require the longer studs, and the spacers are so the brakes will clear the wheels.

    This is all part of the 100,000 mile makeover.  I still cannot believe stock original brake pads still look good...  My plan is to also install 3.70 rear gears, a cold air kit and an electronic tune.  Then I am going to leave it alone and just drive it.  No...really...  That is all.... 

     

    My late model had the bearings stick on the spindle when I pulled the hub. The bearing came apart.  120,000 mile car. So I just replaced the front hub assemblies and put the longer studs in before installing. A lot easier than trying it on the car. I do have the c frame press, but new hubs and bearings at that mileage seemed like a good deal.

     

    4/09/2013 6:20 PM  #4

    MS
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    From: Canyon Lake, Texas
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    Re: Replace wheel studs on 2007 GT

    Good point, DC.  It might be best to just replace the 100,000 mile hubs NOW so I don't have to do it again later after the studs have already been installed.  I just hate to dump money on a part that may still go another 100k miles.  I guess I can inspect the bearings when I get to that point.

    I am thinking of designing a tool that will press the studs out without any percussion engineering involved.  I know Snap-On makes one, but I am sure I could weld something up from scrap pieces.

    Money you enjoy wasting is NOT wasted money... unless your wife finds out.
       •Thread Starter
     

    4/09/2013 7:38 PM  #5

    Rudi
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    From: Stuck in the 50's Welland Ca
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    Re: Replace wheel studs on 2007 GT

    Local parts suppliers loan tools around my place, so wonder if a "C" frame  ball joint removal tool has enough "oomph" to push the studs out. Perhaps you can try those.
     Whose springs are you going to use, if Eibach, the "Pro" kit is recommended over the Sportline.
    I have the Pro's on my 05. Also consider an adjustable panhard bar to center the rear axel, lowering usually shifts the rear end to one side.. Your bump stops will have to be changed as well, on the rear i just cut the first knob off the origonals.
     My car ended up lower than I wanted and I guess that I should have went with Ford springs for a 3/4" front and 1" rear drop. My car has a 1 1/2"  fr,  and 2' rear drop, I swear that it scrapes running over a dime now.
     Looks real cool though! 
     Oh yeah. CDC has Ford racing handeling package for 325.00 a super deal for lowering springs, front struts and rear shocks.

     

    Last edited by Rudi (4/09/2013 7:49 PM)

    Good work ain't cheap, Cheap work ain't good!   Simple Man
     

    4/09/2013 8:28 PM  #6

    Greg B
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    Re: Replace wheel studs on 2007 GT

    what about a c clamp with a short socket that fits over the stud end.    Needs to be a short socket, and a flatter profile c clamp,  but  I bet a person could find one that would work.  

    If multiple things can go wrong, the one that will go wrong will be the one that causes the most damage.
     

    4/09/2013 9:36 PM  #7

    MS
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    From: Canyon Lake, Texas
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    Re: Replace wheel studs on 2007 GT

    Rudi wrote:

    Local parts suppliers loan tools around my place, so wonder if a "C" frame  ball joint removal tool has enough "oomph" to push the studs out. Perhaps you can try those.
     Whose springs are you going to use, if Eibach, the "Pro" kit is recommended over the Sportline.
    I have the Pro's on my 05. Also consider an adjustable panhard bar to center the rear axel, lowering usually shifts the rear end to one side.. Your bump stops will have to be changed as well, on the rear i just cut the first knob off the origonals.
     My car ended up lower than I wanted and I guess that I should have went with Ford springs for a 3/4" front and 1" rear drop. My car has a 1 1/2"  fr,  and 2' rear drop, I swear that it scrapes running over a dime now.
     Looks real cool though! 
     Oh yeah. CDC has Ford racing handeling package for 325.00 a super deal for lowering springs, front struts and rear shocks.

     

     Thanks for that picture Rudi.  I got the Eibach springs recommended for street use.  That does look pretty low...  How is ride quality?

    Is the adjustable panhard necessary with these springs?  I have a brand new stocker I got from a guy and was thinking of converting it to adjustable status if required.

    Money you enjoy wasting is NOT wasted money... unless your wife finds out.
       •Thread Starter
     

    4/10/2013 8:22 AM  #8

    Rudi
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    Re: Replace wheel studs on 2007 GT

    Steve, the ride to me is punishing but for some reason my wife has no issues with it. I have threatened to take my stock springs and cut them and reinstall ala first generation methods in hopes of a better ride quality.
     As for the adjustable panhard bar, you can make the determination of it's need after the new spring install, I have seen some that show a dramatic shift of the rear end to one side, mine did not need an adjustment.
     Good luck.

    Good work ain't cheap, Cheap work ain't good!   Simple Man
     

    4/10/2013 12:25 PM  #9

    MS
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    From: Canyon Lake, Texas
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    Re: Replace wheel studs on 2007 GT

    "Punishing" as a ride quality is not something I am interested in achieving.  Do you have the street version of the springs or the performance version?  And did you get the springs specific to the convertible?  Rear looks lower than I would like to have.

    Money you enjoy wasting is NOT wasted money... unless your wife finds out.
       •Thread Starter
     

    4/10/2013 1:02 PM  #10

    Rudi
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    Re: Replace wheel studs on 2007 GT

    MustangSteve wrote:

    "Punishing" as a ride quality is not something I am interested in achieving.  Do you have the street version of the springs or the performance version?  And did you get the springs specific to the convertible?  Rear looks lower than I would like to have.

     I do have the Eibach street springs and the part number matches to the convertable.  On a smooth road it is  fairly comfortable and handles like a snake in a rat hole,  but any type of speed bump is a disaster.

     People that are supposed to know say I should have the upgraded struts and rear shocks.. The CDC deal is looking better all the time.
     

    Good work ain't cheap, Cheap work ain't good!   Simple Man
     

    4/10/2013 3:49 PM  #11

    BobN
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    Re: Replace wheel studs on 2007 GT

    Steve,

    I have always used a modified large C-clamp to remove and install wheel studs on the car. 
    You will damage the clamp, so just buy a junker from northern tool. The cross bar always bends, so the first thing I do is cut it off and weld a socket on the end on the threat rod so an impact or rachet will work. Then I tack a deep socket on the stationary side of the clamp for pressing the stud out. Only use a tack on there, because you will break it off and tack it on the other side for pressing it in.

    If you can't press them in all the way with the clamp, I usually switch to a spacer and lug nut to pull it the rest of the way. Use anti-sieze or lube on the bolt so it works better.

    It is best to take the hub off and press it in propperly, but lets be honest... It doesn't always work out that way.

    BobN

     

    4/10/2013 4:06 PM  #12

    MS
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    From: Canyon Lake, Texas
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    Re: Replace wheel studs on 2007 GT

    BobN wrote:

    Steve,

    I have always used a modified large C-clamp to remove and install wheel studs on the car. 
    You will damage the clamp, so just buy a junker from northern tool. The cross bar always bends, so the first thing I do is cut it off and weld a socket on the end on the threat rod so an impact or rachet will work. Then I tack a deep socket on the stationary side of the clamp for pressing the stud out. Only use a tack on there, because you will break it off and tack it on the other side for pressing it in.

    If you can't press them in all the way with the clamp, I usually switch to a spacer and lug nut to pull it the rest of the way. Use anti-sieze or lube on the bolt so it works better.

    It is best to take the hub off and press it in propperly, but lets be honest... It doesn't always work out that way.

    BobN

     Thanks, BobN.   That is kind if what I had in mind, except I was thinking bolt, nut, steel plates and alot of welding.  Yours is simpler!

    Money you enjoy wasting is NOT wasted money... unless your wife finds out.
       •Thread Starter
     

     

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