Once you get the gear installed, you can try a basic test to see if there are any glaring problems with the gear on the cam.  Set the engine to top dead center.  Since you have the distributor locked out now, first, make sure you can lift the rotor about .005 to 015".  This is an about measurement but we need to see that there is some lift and that the lift is less than the axial clearance of the rotor before it is inserted which is about .030".  Next, at TDC.  rotate the rotor CW and CCW and feel/see how much backlash you have.  Turn the crank 90 degrees and repeat.  Keep going until you go through two complete crank rotations (one rotation of the distributor) and see if all of the backlash readings are approximately the same.  If you feel a noticeably difference and it is repeatable, then there is a chance that your cam gear is bad, which could have been present when the cam was new.  If it feels about the same all the way through two crank rotations, it may have just been a bad break-in.  I don't see any evidence of impacting.  I see continued wear that occurred after the initial wear took out the hardened surface.  The gears have surface hardening and are not hard all the way through so once you get past the thin layer, the rest can go quickly.  You can see some denting on the surface which is due to debris running into the mesh.  Unfortunately, the fine cast particles may have found there way into other parts of the engine - piston rings, bearings, etc.  Drain the oil and look for particles to see how much is in the pan and also cut open the filter and inspect.  You may have gotten lucky but pay close attention to your oil during the next few changes.  The potential for damage is about as high as flattening a cam lobe.

In addition to a potentially bad cut of the gear on the cam, it is possible that the cam itself may be slightly bent which then causes eccentricity (radial runout) of the cam gear.  These days you can't assume that a brand new cam from any manufacturer is good out of the box.