You can bench bleed a master cylinder one of two ways.  On older iron master cylinders where the whole top comes off I would route hoses from the ports to the reservoir and just keep the ends submerged (add fluid as needed) as I moved the piston until there are no more air bubbles.  

On the newer style masters where they just have a small top I bench bleed them like a wheel cylinder or caliper.  A jar with some clean fluid and a line running from the ports into the jar.  Move the piston until air bubbles stop, and don't let the reservoir get too low.  If nothing I have fits the ports I just buy some adapters and cobble something together.  It doesn't have to hold 2,000psi; it just can't leak.  At this point from years of doing this I have a bunch of adapters in a drawer.  You can just buy short length of metal brake hose, but it may not come with the correct size fittings to thread into the master cylinder.  You can buy the right size tube nuts for this, but probably only online.  

No idea on the booster.  IIWY I'd convert to hydroboost.  I've not heard good things about those 7" boosters.  

Could you share a picture of the parts?

I am not familiar with any of the mentioned parts on the MustangSteve site.

Thanks

Disregard that.  Now that I see it that's not the type of booster I was thinking about.  

No bench bleeding here. This was my experience with installing the parts.

That looks like the same booster I put in my 67. The master was what Mustang Steve recommended, seem like Explorer variety with those same staggered metric fittings sizes. My booster went in first, I got around to doing the master some time later. Between the studs from the booster and the length of the master cylinder, the master would hit the shock tower before it could be positioned to slide onto the booster stubs. I had to file the mounting pad side of the master cylinder bolt holes to provide the extra clearance to get the master into place. With it in place, you will never know that I did it. For lines, I went to the local pick a part and got lines from an Explorer master cylinder to the next junction block down stream. This gave me a factory fitting at the master that I am no good at making. I straightened and rebent to meet my needs then made the right crimp to make up the the factory type brake fittings. Bleeding consisted of filling the master and going into the house. Gravity took over. Found a puddle the next morning from a loose connection. They parts have worked flawlessly for the last 20k miles. 

 

This is all good information that I will be sure to use when I get the parts I have ordered and get around to putting them on.  Thanks for your replies and technical information.  They are much appreciated.

It looks like it includes the correct tube nuts. Check with them whether they need a bubble flare, or inverted flare. They each use a different nut. Also ask if they still preset the pushrod clearance. I know Steve used to.

Last edited by 50vert (7/03/2026 9:02 PM)

What bore size do you need?

With the booster installed how long can the master cylinder be?  

As I mentioned earlier, tilt the front of the booster towards the engine, the M/C will go on a lot easier.

The  2001 Mustang v6 master is well over 7”, did not get an exact measurement since 6-3/4” is the limit.

Thanks for the info but those are both too long to fit in my location.  They are close but they both fit at a slight angle and will be against the shock tower when I bolt them down.  I have tried to angle the master to get it on the booster and It still is tight against the shock tower and at a slight angle.

rpm wrote:

Have you ever considered using manual brakes? Less parts, pretty simple system.

I can say that when I had manual disc brakes using the 94/95 Cobra SVT MC, pedal pressure was a little high but not unmanageable.  (As I’m getting older, I wanted to go to power brakes and adapt a hydroboost system in case my legs started to give out!)