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I have had a mysterious high-RPM oil leak on the driver's side that I finally figured out.
I have a roller 302 block and I am not using the side dipstick since I moved it to the timing cover. I plugged the hole with a dowel and figured it would stay. I know I have some blow-by, and I guess over time the dowel worked loose and fell out.
Now that I have that figured out... What are yall using to plug the dipstick hole? There are bonus points involved if I can install it without pulling the engine. Even more points if I do not have to remove the exhaust manifold.
It is a 302 block in a 1966 coupe with factory exhaust manifolds. I also have AC and borgesson power steering all on the driver's side as well.
BobN
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you can use a bolt that fits with out threading and use some blue gasket stuff to hold it in. I used the dowel and it is still there. Maybe go that route again and get one size bigger?
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I have a Ford Racing crate motor which came with the provision in the block for the Fox body oil pan which came with the engine. I was fortunate in that when I added the dipstick to the timing cover there was already the correct size steel cup plug that I popped out and popped into the side of the block. Measure to make sure, but I'm thinking it is about 3/8" diameter. You can try your local auto parts store and see if they have a steel cup plug. Another place to try may be Lowes in the specialty drawers or if you have a good specialty hardware store in town. Once you have it, you get it started and then punch it in. I'm not looking at mine at the moment but I'd think you coud get to it with a few long socket extensions.
[edit] Maybe this is the right part?
Last edited by Jeff in GA (10/22/2013 11:20 AM)
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Found a steel "freeze plug" of the correct size at Napa. Coat with a small amount of RTV and tap in with a drift. Very clean and looks factory. Works perfect!
The above O'reilly part is the same as Napa.
Last edited by ponch0v (10/22/2013 12:03 PM)
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Been forever since I plugged the hole on my 5.0, but it was on the engine stand when I did it. I would bet that it would be a real bear trying to use a plug with the engine in the car. You might look at some form of expanding anchor.....maybe something like you would use in concrete.
I would not go crazy trying to get it too tight, I could see cracking the block with enough pressure. I could see maybe slipping something like this down in the hole with a little bit of silicone on it, tighten the nut with a wrench and your done.
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EASY WAY: Spray the hole clean with brake cleaner using a cottom swab and then fill the hole with ULTRA BLACK RTV. It will never leak again.
MORE PROFESSIONAL WAY: Tap the existing hole with a 1/8" NPT tap and install a tapered thread 1/8" NPT plug with sealer on the threads.
Either way is considered a permanent fix that will not ever leak, and does not involve cutting down any trees to get the parts.
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I read somewhere that an empty .38 special casing worked well.
We used one on my father-in-law's engine and it fit like a glove... same basic principle as the way a freeze plug or the base of the dipstick tube seal the hole... fiction fit.
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Michael H. wrote:
I read somewhere that an empty .38 special casing worked well.
The key word here is empty. Otherwise you could blow a hole in your oilpan.
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Bullet Bob, you need one of those 38 shell casings on your block. Then we will know how you got the name.
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Anyone in need of an empty 38 Special casing speak up.....I've got plenty and have one set aside for my roller engine........
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at wrote:
Michael H. wrote:
I read somewhere that an empty .38 special casing worked well.
The key word here is empty.
YES... definitely!
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Since the engine is in the car, I am really liking the RTV solution. I think that may be the winner.
Thanks for the suggestions.
BobN
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I always use felpro aviation formagasket on all freeze plugs and galley plugs. Comes in a jar and works great
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