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10/27/2013 12:35 PM  #1


rear ends

Has anyone used the 96 and up explorer 8.8 rear in a 60's mustang?


I made enough money to buy Miami, but pissed it away so fast
 

10/27/2013 3:37 PM  #2


Re: rear ends

I just finished doing that.  '65 coupe and I used a 2001 Explorer 8.8.  If you cut 3" out of the longer side tube you can run two short side axles and it works out within 1/4" of stock.  In fact this new rear end sits nicer than the stock '65.  Plus you get the beefier 31 spline axles and maybe posi trac if you look around.  My 8.8 is 4.10 and open so I added a Ford posi unit.

You'll also have to cut off the spring perches and reweld them to accodomate the length change but that wasn't too difficult.  My machine shop guy cut and welded the tube and mounts for me in 45 minutes.

I added a T5 at the same time and I've only driven it twice since the swap.  I have an unrelated issue with a motor vibration but the rear end seems to work great.  Let me know if you have any more questions.  Here's a shot I took yesterday.  I have plenty more I took during the project if you're interested.




 

 

10/27/2013 4:18 PM  #3


Re: rear ends

I'm getting ready to so this as well.  Narrowed plenty of race car rears so this should be no problem.

 

10/28/2013 6:28 AM  #4


Re: rear ends

Cool, that's a clean looking installation. Stock it's already the right length for my '67 project, I just need to hear pros and cons, from what I've read it will handle the torque monster 390 and 4speed in the car, was worried the offset pinion might cause problems. Hummm those two verticle brackets might just be used for an overide traction bar setup. Thanks a bunch guys   


I made enough money to buy Miami, but pissed it away so fast
     Thread Starter
 

10/28/2013 6:35 AM  #5


Re: rear ends

The offset pumpkin can have a clearance issue, which is why I shortened one of the tubes.  If the overall length is correct for your application you might be able to "hammer clear" the tunnel a bit.  I've heard of people doing that with some success.  Pinion angle might also come into play.  I think it's ok to have an offset horizontally as well as vertically as long as they're not severe.  Lots of thoughts online regarding that.  If you google explorer rear end in '67, '65 whatever, you'll find a lot of info.

 

10/28/2013 7:55 AM  #6


Re: rear ends

The '95-2001 Explorer disc brake rear end is the correct width for a '67-'70 Mustang but the center will still be a little offset in relation to the driveshaft. This can be corrected by swapping sides with the axles and axle tubes.

This will put the rear end in the same configuration of the original 8"/9" rear where the short side axle is on the left and the long side axle is on the right.

 

10/28/2013 9:10 AM  #7


Re: rear ends

Got cha, those axle tubes just use a rosett weld to hold them in from what I have read so removal should be fairly simple? I'm headed to pick apart.


I made enough money to buy Miami, but pissed it away so fast
     Thread Starter
 

10/28/2013 1:22 PM  #8


Re: rear ends

yes i did my 66 was very easy the only thing i may change is the 3.73 gears to 3.27 i can't stop laying rubber hahaha good luck

 

10/28/2013 2:15 PM  #9


Re: rear ends

troym28

could you share how you shortened the axle tube when you did yours?  I've seen a couple ways such as drill out the plug weld, press out the tube, cut it it and install.
the other method was, cut the axle tube, and weld it together.

I'd like to do this someday soon but haven't decided which way to go.

Thanks

 

10/28/2013 3:04 PM  #10


Re: rear ends

ultrastang wrote:

The '95-2001 Explorer disc brake rear end is the correct width for a '67-'70 Mustang but the center will still be a little offset in relation to the driveshaft. This can be corrected by swapping sides with the axles and axle tubes.

This will put the rear end in the same configuration of the original 8"/9" rear where the short side axle is on the left and the long side axle is on the right.

Are the tube flange bolt paterns reversable? so when remounting the calipers they stay in the stock location. 

Last edited by bulletbirdman (10/28/2013 3:05 PM)


I made enough money to buy Miami, but pissed it away so fast
     Thread Starter
 

10/28/2013 6:28 PM  #11


Re: rear ends

bulletbirdman wrote:

ultrastang wrote:

The '95-2001 Explorer disc brake rear end is the correct width for a '67-'70 Mustang but the center will still be a little offset in relation to the driveshaft. This can be corrected by swapping sides with the axles and axle tubes.

This will put the rear end in the same configuration of the original 8"/9" rear where the short side axle is on the left and the long side axle is on the right.

Are the tube flange bolt paterns reversable? so when remounting the calipers they stay in the stock location. 

 
Unlike the rectangular bolt hole end flange pattern of the 8"/9" rear ends, the 8.8" has more of a trapezoidial bolt pattern where the top two holes are spaced slightly further outward compared to the lower two bolt holes. However, swapping the tube sides does not alter/move the hole locations of the flange to a different point.

--swapping sides with the axle tubes will put the sway bar brackets on the front side of the tubes. If there's no intent to utilize them then they can simply be removed. If they can be integrated with a rear sway bar, then obviously, they would need to be removed and then reattached to the backside of the swapped tubes.

 

10/29/2013 5:41 AM  #12


Re: rear ends

Thanks, Thats the information I was looking for. Oh  what kind of code would be on the data tag for a traction lock equipped differential?


I made enough money to buy Miami, but pissed it away so fast
     Thread Starter
 

10/29/2013 7:04 AM  #13


Re: rear ends

josh-kebob wrote:

troym28

could you share how you shortened the axle tube when you did yours?  I've seen a couple ways such as drill out the plug weld, press out the tube, cut it it and install.
the other method was, cut the axle tube, and weld it together.

I'd like to do this someday soon but haven't decided which way to go.

Thanks

 what i did was scribe a straight line top of the axle tube cut out 3" used two pieces of 3" angle iron on clamped tube back together then made 1" welds spaced apart so not to over heat or warp

 

10/29/2013 10:44 AM  #14


Re: rear ends

thanks troym28,

i say that technique/write up and like it better......glad it worked out for you.

 

10/29/2013 4:06 PM  #15


Re: rear ends

bulletbirdman wrote:

Thanks, Thats the information I was looking for. Oh  what kind of code would be on the data tag for a traction lock equipped differential?

 
See my post in the following link, 7th response down.

http://fyi.boardhost.com/viewtopic.php?id=1329

 

10/29/2013 7:43 PM  #16


Re: rear ends

ultrastang wrote:

 
See my post in the following link, 7th response down.

http://fyi.boardhost.com/viewtopic.php?id=1329

You can link straight to a individual message, just right click with your mouse on the date/time stamp or on the message number in the thread, choose "Copy Link Address", "Copy Shortcut" or similar depending on what browser you use and then just right click and paste the link into your message using the "chain" button in the message editor.

Here's an example using the Opera webbrowser, content of the right click menu might be different in other browsers, but should work in the same way:







 

10/30/2013 6:20 AM  #17


Re: rear ends

I wonder........
Could you remove BOTH axle housings and replace with 66....8" axle tubes? There by making it a sure fit! OR .is that too much unnecessary work?!
6sal6


Get busy Liv'in or get busy Die'n....Host of the 2020 Bash at the Beach/The only Bash that got cancelled  )8
 

10/30/2013 9:22 AM  #18


Re: rear ends

I think ultra stang said the hole pattern is different on the early rear so I don't think the backing plate for the disc setup will bolt up.

I may be wrong though.

 

10/30/2013 5:36 PM  #19


Re: rear ends

FFR3247 wrote:

I think ultra stang said the hole pattern is different on the early rear so I don't think the backing plate for the disc setup will bolt up.

I may be wrong though.

That's correct, the bolt pattern is different.  Furthermore, the end flange of the 8"/9" rear end is at the extreme outer ends of the tubes. The flange of the 8.8" rear ends are not at the extreme ends of the tubes. They are inset away from the tube ends.

 

10/31/2013 10:29 AM  #20


Re: rear ends

On e more question...
does the donor exploder hafts be a V-8?
Going in a 66coupe.
Thanx
6sal6


Get busy Liv'in or get busy Die'n....Host of the 2020 Bash at the Beach/The only Bash that got cancelled  )8
 

10/31/2013 3:32 PM  #21


Re: rear ends

6sally6 wrote:

On e more question...
does the donor exploder hafts be a V-8?
Going in a 66coupe.
Thanx
6sal6

 
Except for the less common 5.0L Ford Explorers and Mercury Mountaineers, the rest (majority) of these vehicles came with V-6 engines (a 160 hp 4.0L or a more powerful 205 hp version of the 4.0L engine). The 8.8" rears are the same for V-8 or V-6 models.

While fewer Explorer/Mountaineers were V-8s, compared to the majority which came with V-6s, the 5.0L was the largest and only V-8 engine optionally available in them. There were no factory-installed 5.8L (351W) engines in the Explorer/Mountaineers.

Last edited by ultrastang (10/31/2013 3:40 PM)

 

11/01/2013 2:01 PM  #22


Re: rear ends

This is my new floater that you can build at any width! The axles are available in 1/2 inch increments and you have more than that in adjustments.

 

Board footera


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