GP, I like it.  Wish I woulda put one in mine when I had it apart.  Did you sandblast the car or have it done?  Looks like you have eliminated all rust.  Great job.

Looks like you are making some real nice progress there Gary. If increased chassis stifness is one of the goals, wouldn't installing an X between the vertical tubes increase stiffness?

Thanks for the feedback - I have been toying with an "X" brace or diagonal bracing from the intersection of the horizontal cross tube on both sides to the top of the tunnel - I have seen this on a few cars that I found on-line but I think I'd have to stiffen the top of the tunnel with appropriate bracing or plates as welding a thick tube to sheet metal defeats the purpose.  Also, I am looking at connecting down with short tubes to the subframe connectors so maybe I will do both.  I need to keep access relatively open to finish up my repairs and then I can brace it up.  I might look at bolted connectings for the cross brace setup for future access.  The rear braces actually angle out a few degees which limits parallelograming.  It's been fun doing the install - a form of proactive procrastination to avoid doing any visible body work.

Tonie - they ain't pretty but they are a lot better that I could have done a year ago.  The pentration is good and I'll clean them up a little for paint.  From what I read various racing bodies do not permit any grinding of the welds but then I'm not racing.  I was trying to find the blur button on the camera to hide the welds - maybe I'll have to try photoshop next time!  I have also tried to find the messy shop delete button but again with no luck.

Steve - I did a lot of internet hunting on mounting and some are surprisingly weak - the one page hand drawn installation guide I got with the roll bar was of little use.  Most rule books require 1/8"x6"x6" mounting plates on any unibody car so I have tried to follow that where I could.  My goal, ultimately, is to keep the four wheels on the gound.

Looks nice. What are the specs on the roll bar material.

Bob

I got the standard material which is 1-3/4" x .134" wall ERW - they have DOM which is .120" wall and also chromoly.  For what i wanted, the ERW is adequate so I didn't pay the up-charge.  I paid extra for the pre-notch of the ends that don't have to be custom fit which was worth the $20.  I was originally hoping for a plug-and-play setup but couldn't find one.

The seats indeed are Pointiac Fiero.  Mr. Mikes upholstery will go over them some day.  You can order the covers with the speaker holes and there are supposed to be some nice aftermarket speakers.  Carpet will hide a lot of my work on the bars and the floor.  The floor is actually cleaning up nicely and I'm going to use a little putty underneath to hide the weld lines.  Not many people will carry mirrors to look underneath and still more motivation to keep the rubber on the road.

PVC?  I used some PVC to figure out how to get it to fit - hard to imagine an inspector would miss it.  Maybe they should carry a magnet as part of their inspection.  I could think of a lot of areas to save weight.