| ||
Visit MustangSteve's web site to view some of my work and find details for: FYIFORD Contributors' PICTURES - Power Brake Retrofit Kits for 65-66 Stangs - Classic Mustang FAQ's by MustangSteve - How to wire in a Duraspark Ignition - Mustang Ride Height Pictures and Descriptions - Steel Bushings to fit Granada Spindles to Mustang Tie Rods - Visit my EBAY store MustangSteve Performance - How to Install Granada Disc Brakes MustangSteve's Disc Brake Swap Page - FYIFORD Acronyms for guide to all the acronyms used on this page - FYIFORD Important information and upcoming events |
1 of 1
Offline
it was pretty easy. But looking at the seal on the corners of the pan to gasket to me it looks like there is a slight gap. Should I pull the pan back down and add some RTV to the corners?
Thanks
Steve69
Offline
If that is an aftermarket chromed oil pan of dubious origin I would most certainly consider doing just that!
OR, just go and RTV the whole thing as per the MS approved method without the gasket.
Offline
Is the pan torqued down in those pics? Definitely needs some sealer if it is. Not sure how well the sealer sticks to those gaskets... Easier to just slap some on the entire mating surface and hang the gasket on your wall.
Like Rudi mentioned, the oil pan may not be formed as well as an original pan.
Offline
Yes its all torqued down. Its -5 degrees out so Im not sure how well the sealer is going to seal..LOL.
"Don't use a gasket, just RTV Ultra Black, thick where the end seals went and thin on the flange. Everything must be cleaned with lacquer thinner first to get a good bond. Torque the pan tight to the block while the RTV is wet and it will never leak again."
So would I put the RTV on engine block and then install the pan?
Ill take a look at it tomorrow.
Thanks for the info.
Steve69
Last edited by Steve69 (12/12/2013 3:57 PM)
Offline
To assure 100% coverage of the sealer, I coat the pan rail, being sure to fill all those inset places, then put a paper thin layer on the block. That way you are assured the sealer will flow together and cover everything.
Installation studs hughly recommended. A 2" long stud, once centered each side will allow you to position the pan correctly the first try. Just slide the pan over the studs and put a nut on each one and snug it up. Install all the other bolts and then remove the studs and replace with bolts.
Offline
FWIW, I bought a Ford Racing crate motor which came with the fox body oil pan mad a one piece gasket. When I swapped it out I noticed that they used a dab of sealant at each of the four corners adjacent to the crank. Since it was good enough for them, I followed suit.
Offline
Thanks for all the info Guys! Is there a difference between the 5.0 pan Gasket and the 302? I noticed the had different part #s. I thought they would be the same since its the same bolt patern.
Thanks
Steve69
Offline
The 351W is different, but 289 and 302 and 5.0 use the same gasket. If it comes with a new rear main seal, then it would be different for the 302s and 5.0s that had the one piece rear seal. Unless maybe they are doing something different on the pans that have the dipstick going through tme???
Offline
Thanks MS! I have to say the 4 Blue helper studs that come with the one piece gasket set are amazing. They almost like having another helping hand under the car to hold that pan up.
Steve69
Offline
Steve69 wrote:
Thanks MS! I have to say the 4 Blue helper studs that come with the one piece gasket set are amazing. They almost like having another helping hand under the car to hold that pan up.
Steve69
Amen on that! With those, you do not even have to put a nut on to hold the pan in place. I kep mine for future use.
Offline
I had the same issue with a chrome pan that came on my car. It is now just fine since it is now just a bin to keep junk in under the bench. An OEM pan fixed the problem.
Offline
I just looked more closely at the pics. My Ford Racing motor had a little dab at each corner between the gasket and the block/cap. There was nothing between the gasket and the pan. It has been 6 years since I've had it off, but if memory serves, the 5.0L gasket has a provision for the dipstick tube in the side of the block. Perhaps that is the difference? FWIW, I reused the 5.0L gasket when I swapped pans.
A few months ago I removed the timing cover when I swapped the cam and the portion of the gasket touching the cover came out with it I put a little dab of RTV at the break and reassembled with nary a leak. I figured it couldn't be any worse then those little cork 'stubs' that they give you with an timing cover gasket kit. YMMV.
Offline
Don't know about the seal and RTV applications, but I would be hesitant to run a pilot bearing in the crankshaft that was made in China?
I had a needle bearing as a pilot bearing in a crankshaft that failed once. The rollers came out of the bearing cage and got jammed between the clutch plate and the flywheel. I couldn't take it out of gear because I couldn't get the clutch to release. Change that bearing for something made in the USA.
Offline
I was debating on that also Ron68. Where can you get a pilot bushing made in the USA!
Offline
According to the pic on Summit's website, the Timken is made in Japan. You may be able to get it from your local auto parts, otherwise Summit, Rockauto, etc.
Timken FC65662
Offline
Thanks for part # Jeff
1 of 1
REMEMBER!!! When posting a question about your Mustang or other Ford on this forum, BE SURE to tell us what it is, what year, engine, etc so we have enough information to go on. |