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I am sorry for my steering malfunction hijacking another post, so I am moving this out on its own.
To recap, I have the Borgeson power steering box conversion on my 66 coupe. I love it, but the upper steering shaft came out while I was entering the freeway during rush hour. I managed to avoid hitting another car, somehow, and was able to get home safely. After changing my shorts, I fixed the shaft by drilling a hole for the set screw through the splined portion of the shaft.
I send Borgeson an email about my story and they replied in less than an hour with an actual response. I thought you might want to read along.
My (polite) email to them:
I have the power steering conversion kit #999020 installed on my 1966 Mustang for a little over a year. It has been a great system, and I tell everyone I meet that they should install it on their car.
A week ago, I was entering the freeway and the upper shaft pulled out of the rag joint while accelerating. I managed to stop the car without getting hit (after crossing a few lanes uncontrolled), and I was able to put the shaft back in the rag joint to get the car off the road. When I got the vehicle home, I noticed that the set screw on the rag joint had completely backed off allowing the shaft to pull out. I could see an indention in the splines from the setscrew, so I know it was tightened during installation.
I drilled a 5/16" hole 1/4" deep in the shaft to allow the set screw to hold the shaft better, and I used locktite blue on the threads to prevent it from backing out again.
Looking at the directions again, they do not mention drilling the shaft or using a thread locker on the set screw. I did notice that the steering box has a groove milled in it to accept the setscrew, however the upper shaft has no such modification in the splined area.
I randomly reviewed several other product instruction pages and they encourage, or require, a hole or flat spot for the setscrew. The background picture on your webpage even shows a splined shaft with a flat spot milled into it for the set screw.
Could you please modify the directions so that other customers will not be placed in the same predicament as myself. Even still, I speak highly of your product and recommend it as my preferred steering solution for the Mustang - with an additional warning for installation.
Thank you,
Bob Nettles
Their response:
Good Afternoon Bob,
First thank you for using and recommending our products, our customers are our best brand ambassadors and we appreciate it. I apologize for the harrowing moment this must have caused. I do understand the issues you had and the conflict between the catalog and instructions and will work to have the column shaft instructions changed to reflect this. I am additionally investigating a manufacturing change to the shaft itself to see if I can get manufacturing to perhaps put a similar groove in the shaft to completely eliminate any issues.
Thank you again for your feedback and recommending our products.
Thanks,
Jeff Grantmeyer
Sales Manager
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Count your blessings Bob. I'm not familiar with the 66 steering design. Is the steering shaft secured only at the lower end? I think if I did this conversion on the first gen Mustang, I'd weld the rag joint bracket onto the shaft like the 69 had it.
Bob
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Sounds like you got an answer from a person not a lawer.
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It would seem they would want some kind of positive retention, like most cars with splined shafts use. They have a groove around the shaft, and the female part of the connection is a clamp with a bolt going though it. The bolt must pass through the groove in the shaft, so even if the nut were to fall off, the shaft of the bolt would retain the clamp/fitting and it could not slide off the splines unless the bolt was completely removed.
If you just drill a hole for the setscrew, how do you accomplish that without drilling through the threaded hole in the female fitting?
Even my old F-100 had a fail-safe connection where the rag joint flange slid onto the steering shaft.
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BobN,
If you had used red loctite when you originally tightened down the setscrew amd locknut, do you think it would have come apart?
I do agree that a detent to keep the setscrew from sliding on the shaft is a good idea. I will add that modification to my Borgeson shaft when I install it.
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MustangSteve wrote:
It would seem they would want some kind of positive retention, like most cars with splined shafts use. They have a groove around the shaft, and the female part of the connection is a clamp with a bolt going though it. The bolt must pass through the groove in the shaft, so even if the nut were to fall off, the shaft of the bolt would retain the clamp/fitting and it could not slide off the splines unless the bolt was completely removed.
If you just drill a hole for the setscrew, how do you accomplish that without drilling through the threaded hole in the female fitting?
Even my old F-100 had a fail-safe connection where the rag joint flange slid onto the steering shaft.
I could see the dent in the shaft from when I tightened the set screw initially, so I carefully drilled a hole in that spot and used the set screw to determine the dill size. When I slid the shaft back in the rag joint the set screw went all the way in (call me lucky on that one I guess), so now it is holding by friction and shear instead of friction alone. I agree that a roll pin or a through bolt would be a better solution and I may do that the next time my engine is out.
BobN
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It appears that I need to do an inspection on my Borgeson installation on my 68. Thanks for posting about your issue with the setscrew retention.
Maybe Borgeson needs to issue an emergency AD note like the FAA would do to get all Borgeson kit owners to inspect their installations.....
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66 coupe
I guess they made some changes to their kits since I installed mine. Granted it's been many moons (and beers) but I ordered a new shaft from them that came with the splined end. Scrounged around for the correct rag joint coupler and installed. No problems in the past seven years.
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EVERY one I do has a through hole and pin pressed in and then seal welded in place. Yes it takes a grinder to remove, but I have never had an issue while driving.
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Wow...glad you brought up the subject...I reciently installed the Borgeson power box in my 70 Mach1..what a difference over the original PS...I just remembered while reading this post...I DON'T BELIEVE I TIGHTENED THE SET SCREW after mock up...oooooh... It pays to stay tuned to this site...jj
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