Well I say NO. In my opinion the 289 has better rev characteristics then most other small blocks. I embarrassed ah few 347 strokers with my little 289. Although my next engine will be ah roller motor so I don't have to mess with all the oil additives that you have to use with the flat tappet cam. Plus cam technology is headed in that direction quickly. I predict flat tappet cam choices will soon become scarce. Much like tire choices for 14" wheels

An objective answer depends on what are you going to use the car for?

Uwiik wrote:

Those who replied to my previous thread may be familiar with my case, but I will shortly explain once again..

I have 289 C code with problematic off idle transition and whatnot.... Upon complete teardown I found out that everything is a mess....galled piston, galled crankshaft journal, valve not seating properly, etc....

I will keep my question simple...I will be going either 289 or 302, I have no interest in going 302 roller, stroker or whatnot, so please keep it between 289 vs. 302...


After everything that I already bought/have on hand I came up with below dilemma for the final decision.
- With 289 I need to machine my stock 289 crankshaft to undersize and buy smaller rod and main bearing + 0.027 MLS gasket to bump compression up. Around $650 total cost including shipping and tax + machining
- With 302 I need to buy new crankshaft and connecting rod, my friend thought He had a new 302 crank, apparently not, so I need to buy new from US. Around $1.200 after shipping and tax...

So is the extra 13CI worth the $550 difference between 289 vs 302??

I'd stay w/ the 289.  The first thing I'd do is figure out what caused all the problems - sounds like an oiling issue to me.  A balanced setup is the key to engine performance.   If you do a mild port to the heads, install screw-in rocker studs, install a moderate cam and springs, 9.5:1 compression, dual plane aluminum intake (port matched to the heads), 600 cfm or less carb, good ignition curve, get the engine balanced, and headers, I think you are going to be around 325 HP at the engine and have good usable HP and torque.
 

Horsepower and torque differences between the two engines are neglible given the same equipment.  If you were going to upgrade to a late model roller cam block that would be one thing, but judging both on their potential with a flat tappet cam, you will likely never notice the difference between the two.  Save your money for something else and build the 289.

 

6sally6 wrote:

325/350...depending on CR...cam...carb. Stay with the 289.
6sally6

I don't know Sall that seams a little high to me.  On a mild naturally aspirated build 1 HP per cubic inch is a good rule of thumb.  
 

Daze wrote:

6sally6 wrote:

325/350...depending on CR...cam...carb. Stay with the 289.
6sally6

I don't know Sall that seams a little high to me.  On a mild naturally aspirated build 1 HP per cubic inch is a good rule of thumb.  
 

True-butt.......those heads are way better  and with enough cam compression and carb....hhmmmmmm?!
 

http://www.mustangandfords.com/techarticles/engine/28898_400_hp_302_small_block/

6sally6 wrote:

My favorite trick on SBF builds is.........have the piston put on the rods with the notch pointing  TO THE BACK OF THE ENGINE instead of the front.
You are gonna have ARP rod bolts installed and have the big ends re-sized!!?! That way...the engine should hold together VERY well in the upper RPM range. IF left stock....the first thing to come loose with be a rod bolt or a rod bearing will spin.
Both are BAD
Other tips coming later
6sal6

 
That's new to me, Joe Sherman article claims 15-30hp by simply installing the pistons backward, that's A LOT of free power.....any downside on doing this other than increase noise when cold?? What is the logic behind it? Not doubting it but I was just wondering if the factory made the piston facing the intended direction then how come installing it against the factory recommendation actually result in more power??

What is re sizing big end? How to do it? Do I need to rebalance the rods after resizing the big end??

I was gonna use the stock bolt. If that's the case I will just buy a complete ARP SBF bolt kit...

Last edited by Uwiik (2/26/2014 9:40 AM)

The wrist pin on the piston is offset instead of being centered in the piston. By installing them OPPOSITE of Ford it puts the connecting rod at a better angle in relation to the crankshaft. I have done a couple of SBF engines that way with ZERO problems. With headers you can't hear any cold start piston slap anyway.
IMPORTANT!
When you install the ARP rod bolts the pressing in process mis-shaps the big end of the rod...slightly. The resizing just trims and adjusts to bring them back to tolerance. If not......a spun rod bearing could be the result.(Not a very expensive process..butt-eye think a machine shop needs to do it.)
I'd spend the extra $$$ to have the rotating assembly balanced. That way...AFTER the engine is broken-in.......you're comfortable with what you have.....you start feeling like a teenage boy....and you "wring-it-out" in the first 3 gears....shouldn't have any problems.
I would also SLIGHTLY grind and polish all the rods to remove any flashing or irregularities on the rods. Not enough to weaken anything just to make everything slick. Just a small amount of weight OFF the connecting rods make a large difference in power(relatively speaking)
Same thing with ANY sharp edges in the combustion chamber.  Grind and polish those spots smooth. That helps reduce the chances of pre-ignition.
Talking about heads....those Edelbrock heads are Aluminum,right?!  You could go a full point higher on the crompression compared to iron heads. 10:1 would be a safe bet with a cam with a tight LSA. (All Isky Cams are ground on a 108* LSA) 224*@050 duration and about 540 Lift.
Roller tip rocker arms will help keep the oil cooler butt really doesn't pick up any power....UNLESS... you get  1.6:1 ratio arms. Then you will be getting into A LOT of lift for your springs. Your choice.
6sally6
Just noticed...you already have a cam....Pretty mild IMHO. I would degree it in when you make the install  and advance it 4* MORE to get the most out of it in the range you will be driving. So be sure and get an adjustable timing set. 

Last edited by 6sally6 (2/26/2014 10:52 PM)

Isky cams  part# 381280
224@050 duration.......108*LSA   
Look it up.............should have "nice lopey idle"
This is probably the one used in the article by Joe Sherman.
Great price...get the cam..lifters..SPRINGS...retainers (all you need)
I'll check on Ken @ Delta Cams tomorrow
6sally6