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Is this/ can this be done? I can't find anything in the archives. I'm not looking for the expensive fancy March pulley style, and I don't want to convert to serpentine or reverse rotation waterpump. Just the plain old tensioners that were bolted on at the factory in the 80's.
Scott Williams
1969 Sportsroof
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Only tensioner I know of for V-belt on a 69 would be the addition of an idler pulley on the a/c belt, or the slotted adjustment on the power steering pump supports.
Are you running all stock pulleys for the 69? What are you trying to accomplish? Making it easier to tighten the belts, or what?
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Pulleys on it are bone stock. I do all my work solo and it's a pain in the a** to get it tightened correctly. I'd prefer to bolt on a tensioner and be done with it. I have no PS in the way so I have a spot on the driver's side head/block to bolt to.
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So, all you have is an alternator belt to deal with? The problem with adding a tensioner on a three pulley v-belt system is the location of the tensioner, and the short distance between the three pulleys.
When you add a fourth pulley into the system, you reduce the amount of wrap that the belt will have around one and possibly two of the pulleys. You need at least 90 degrees of belt wrap on each pulley to do the job without them slipping. So, in fact, adding a tensioner will indeed make the belt appear looser as it slips on the pulleys because of less wrap.
That is why they came up with serpentine belts, so they could route them all over the place to get the proper wrap on each pulley, and to be able to use the smooth side of the belt as well.
My advice would be to ABDFI the thing. Learn how to properly install the existing type belt and some tricks of the trade for holding things tight while you snug up the bolts.
i.e.;
ALTERNATOR... That ear on the alternator where the adjusting bolt goes through is square on most alternators. You can put a crescent wrench on that ear to use for leverage to hold the belt tight while you tighten the adjusting bolt. Or buy the special wrench designed for that purpose.
POWER STERING... Power steering pumps have a square lug on the front of the iron pump body, behind the pulley, so you can put an open end wrench on the lug to rotate the PS pump while you tighten the bolt. NEVER pry on the housing of the PS pump.
AIR CONDITIONER COMPRESSOR... AC idler pulleys have a 1/2" square hole in them so you can use a 1/2" drive breaker bar to apply leverage to the idler while you tighten the bolt.
Oh, and I almost forgot
WELCOME to FYIFORD !
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Pick up a cheap v-belt groove gauge and check each pulley in your system. Over time, the friction surfaces of the pulleys will wear and when they become dished the belt will slip regardless of the amount of tension. Basic specs call for no more than 1/32" gap but if you hold a flashlight behind the gauge and see light between the gauge and the pulley is probably worn and should be replaced. Belt drive occurs due to the pucker in the belt sidewall when it is wrapped around the pulley. The pucker/expansion of the sidewall pushes against the pulley and this is how the transmission of power occurs. If there is no sidewall to push against, the belt will slip. This is also why, as Steve mentioned above, you need a minimum wrap around the pulley. If your belt is over 5 years old, consider changing that as well. Any elastomer ages - even sitting on a shelf. As they age, the surfaces harden and you lose friction. You will find that you will need far less tension to keep belts from slipping when you have a good belt and good pulleys. If you are cranking/levering hard to attempt to keep them from slipping/sqealing you are placing undue load on all the bearings and it will still probably slip.
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Makes a lot more sense now. Thanks. But what does ABDFI mean?
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Aint broke dont fix it,
and welcome to the forum
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