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After a couple of short years I finally gottaroundtuit and started installing my leaf springs I got from him!! My question is about the rear shackles. How tight should I run the nuts down? Is there a torque spec or just stop right before I wring it off? I'm thinking the front bolt should be as tight as possible butt the rear........I don't know?!!
6s6
Last edited by 6sally6 (3/27/2014 7:01 PM)
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I always used sleeves on both bolts on each rear shackle. That means the bolts should be tight. So the rubber bushing deforms in torsion to provide movement. The sleeve should not turn. The shackle straps and the sleeves act as one piece when tightened properly.
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DC wrote:
I always used sleeves on both bolts on each rear shackle. That means the bolts should be tight. So the rubber bushing deforms in torsion to provide movement. The sleeve should not turn. The shackle straps and the sleeves act as one piece when tightened properly.
So putting grease on the rubber bushings is NOT a good idea?!
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The rotation of the bushing is quite small. So I always figured let the rubber do it's thing and never greased them if I was using stock type rubber bushings. If you are using urinethane heaven help you!
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DC wrote:
The rotation of the bushing is quite small. So I always figured let the rubber do it's thing and never greased them if I was using stock type rubber bushings. If you are using urinethane heaven help you!
Yeah...I used rubber. Just wanted to TRY and eliminate as many squeeeeks as I could. I don't have sleeves in mine..........wonder what would happen(since they don't move much) If I just tighten'em and leave as is?!
6s6
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That's what I would do, only use enough slippery to get them in. I would figure some way to make some sleeves work though. Have you ever seen the kid with the jacked up "wanna be muscle" car with the slonch wise jacked up shackles? No sleeves! To keep everything straight and keep your axle under your car, you don't want the shackles contrubuting to your side to side slop in your rear axle placement. Sleeves make your shackles rigid and help center your axle.
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Looks like I'm gonna hafta undo my shackles and fab some sleeves! Aligning the rear is VERY critical because.....225-60-15 with a wide-body passenger is scrub-city.
Would copper tubing or Alum tubing work?
6s6
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6sally6 wrote:
Would copper tubing or Alum tubing work?
6s6
No. Use 1/8" wall steel tube.
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If you have stock shackles, they do not need sleeves. They have shoulder bolts so you just tighten the nuts until they are tight. The correct crush dimension is built into the design.
You definitely do not want to gease the bushings. It will make them get soft and not work like they are supposd to.
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Wow! I guess my car had some after market stuff, since it had no sleeves or shoulder bolts when I bought it. I haven't seen a stock shackle to know it had a shoulder bolt, but that makes a lot of sense. The only vehicle I now have that has leaf springs is my MG. My Mustang has the Jag rear with coil overs. The MG stuff I have is with sleeves. Either way it makes the shackle rigid to locate the axle better. With wider tires, you may need a panhard bar to keep the tires off of the body if you drive anything like I do!
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Well I had to wait for a while, but I had to.I am surprised no one said this, did you put your car in the ditch, I wasn't at that bash, but I loved the video and the comments.
Last edited by dave68 (3/27/2014 10:27 PM)
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dave68 wrote:
Well I had to wait for a while, but I had to.I am surprised no one said this, did you put your car in the ditch, I wasn't at that bash, but I loved the video and the comments.
The temptation almost got the best of me too!
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MAYBE.........whenI get the trac-loc!!!!
6s6
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As a consideration to the next owner many years down the road, install the bolts through the sleeves with a heavy grease or corrosion preventative compound so he won't have to cut the bolts off when he replaces the springs.
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Hey Sal, I got Corky's FRONT springs. I can tell that the car flinches at each mailbox that I pass.
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Ron68 wrote:
As a consideration to the next owner many years down the road, install the bolts through the sleeves with a heavy grease or corrosion preventative compound so he won't have to cut the bolts off when he replaces the springs.
Sal's-believe-it-or-knot.....I removed/de-screwed/un-screwed/un-bolted thefront AND rear bolts withOUT any pene oil or anything!! After 40+ years!! The residual grease I left on the nuts/bolts will protect them for many a year,+ I chased the threads on the big bolts and nuts too. And painted stuff naturally.
Sooo the future owner should be in good shape.
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Having let things run their course, I CAN say;
Mike is right I'm proud fer him getting his rear springs installed.
Fer those of you who 'temptation has got the best of", I ain't quite as proud of.
Ya Rascals!!
Tubo
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6sally6, it appears everyone has a different idea of what shackles you are using. Since you did not specify what you have, it is only reasonable the answers are going to be all over the map and most do not apply to your situation.
What shackles are you using?
And are the spring bushings poly or original style rubber?
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Sorry for the lack of TOTAL info.
The shackles are the stock 1966 Ford Mustang shackles.
I am using stock replacement /Moog rubber bushings.
The original question was......should I grease'm or not. I did.........then I went back and wiped'em off. So they are slick-butt non-greased.
I've tried'm out and the new springs(mid-eye I believe) work great...don't squeak......and raised the rear approx. 2" from were the old saggy ones were.
I'm happy
6sal6
And while I was in there!@#$%^&$#@......I fixed my back-up lights properly,this time.
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