Matt, after you adjust valve to zero lash are you turning the crankshaft 3/4 turn?
The 3/4 turn is to turn rocker arm stud nut 3/4 more turns. That is to position valve lifter in the center of its adjustment range, then adjust the other valve on that cylinder the same way...
Howard

Last edited by hmartin025 (3/29/2014 8:07 PM)

hmartin025 wrote:

Matt, after you adjust valve to zero lash are you turning the crankshaft 3/4 turn?
The 3/4 turn is to turn rocker arm stud nut 3/4 more turns. That is to position valve lifter in the center of its adjustment range, then adjust the other valve on that cylinder the same way...
Howard

Thanks, but I am tightening the stud nut with the extra 3/4 of a turn

If they are hydraulic lifters and pumped up (full of oil) the valve will slightly open when you adjust. When the engine runs lifters will adjusts. But each valve is individual, and one valve adjustment will not interfere with other valve adjustments. 

Mattstang wrote:

jkordzi wrote:

First I would try to find out if you have some type of performance lifter like anti-pump up or Rhodes lifters and follow the manufacturer's recommendations.  Rhodes or other variable duration lifters normally have a ticking sound like solid lifters.  I suspect you have some kind of performance lifters since you have roller rockers.  In any case, I would make sure that you really start from zero lash.  I think the method of spinning the pushrod until it stops is too uncertain a method for determining zero lash.  I suggest you try it again, but this time back off the nut until you know there is clearance - you can pull up on the pushrod end of the rocker and the pushrod obviously has slop.  Then tighten down the nut until the pushrod slop is just taken up - pull up on the pushrod end of the rocker and see if you can click the pushrod up against its seat.  Remember that the spring in the lifter is pretty light so you have to use a light touch here, and you are not moving the pushrod up and down - just up.  When all slop is take out (again while pulling up on the pushrod end of the rocker) you will be at zero lash.  Then tighten it down the additional amount. 

This is the exact method i was using.  I removed one of the lifters that didn't seem to want to work for me and put it on my work bench.  I the took the push rod and tried to get the piston to move in it and it won't budge with all of my weight on it.  Then i tried with one of the other problem ones with the same result.  The ones that seem to adjust properly will compess when I push on the rocker arm.  I thinking I must have some bad lifters.  I believe from the reciepts I have with the car they are just regular Comp Cams lifters.
 

As you note, you need to replace your lifters.  While you at it, since someone else has been modifying your valve train, I'd check to make sure you have the right pushrod length.  Have you figured out why you have a blown head gasket?  You might want to check that the heads aren't warped.  Also, if the heads aren't the original 289 heads, the coolant passages may not line up well with those in the block, which can lead to overheating, and a blown head gasket.

I had a set of Competition Cam lifters once that acted just like yours are doing, once when I had the rockers off when I reassembled it I bent about half of the push rods, I was going to VoTech at the time and my teacher had me take all of the lifters out and depress the plunger in the lifers by chucking a push rod in a drill press and pressing the oil out, I then reassembled it and it was fine. that was the only set of lifers I ever had act that way. 

I once tried a set of Rhoads lifters in my 302 and was thoroughly disappointed in them, they sounded like they had about .060 valve lash all the time, talked to a tech at Rhoads and he said sometimes with a certain lift cam and hi oil pressure they would do that, they refunded my money with no questions asked. 

Matt......I always visualize what's going on with the cam ...lobes...lifter. First valve........(with all plugs OUT!) turn the balancer witha long ratchet.  Watch until the first valve/rocker/pushrod  goes down....even when you turn it a little more,it don't move. THEN you are on the heel of the lobe(that's the lowest point...where you want to adjust your lash. Twist that pushrod until you feel it just starts to stop spin...THAT MY FRIEND is zero lash! Turn that adjustment on the rocker stud 1/2...3/4 turn. Then roll the crank until the next valeve does the same thing.
By feeling the turning pushrod you are insuring that you have ALL the slack out of the rocker/pushrod and you are totally on the bottom of the lobe and there is no loosness between the pushrod and the lifter.
 IF the lifter is pumped up............you gotta get the oil out so it will compress the 1/2...3/4 turn.
6sal6

6sally6 wrote:

Matt......I always visualize what's going on with the cam ...lobes...lifter. First valve........(with all plugs OUT!) turn the balancer witha long ratchet.  Watch until the first valve/rocker/pushrod  goes down....even when you turn it a little more,it don't move. THEN you are on the heel of the lobe(that's the lowest point...where you want to adjust your lash. Twist that pushrod until you feel it just starts to stop spin...THAT MY FRIEND is zero lash! Turn that adjustment on the rocker stud 1/2...3/4 turn. Then roll the crank until the next valeve does the same thing.
By feeling the turning pushrod you are insuring that you have ALL the slack out of the rocker/pushrod and you are totally on the bottom of the lobe and there is no loosness between the pushrod and the lifter.
 IF the lifter is pumped up............you gotta get the oil out so it will compress the 1/2...3/4 turn.
6sal6

That is the exact procedure I'm using.  I've come to conclusion that some of the lifters are pumped up.  Those are the ones I'm having problems with the others have been adjusting fine.  To be on the safe side I think i'm just going to buy a new set of lifters and go through the breaking in process again for a piece of mind.