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As a result of performing the shelby drop the front end sits lower and to compensate I lowered the rear.
Everyone comments on how good it looks all squatted down like it is! WELL...... I went for a drive today and hit a hump and the rear tires rubbed the quarters... turned into a driveway which was inclined a bit and the front tires grabbed the fenders!!! BULLCRAP!!!
I have a feeling this thing is going back up!!! it may have sat to high for some BUT AT LEAST THE TIRES NEVER RUBBED!! bah humbug!!!!
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Terry don't reverse the drop...go to your auto parts store and get Mr. Gasket 1"twist in spacers...in 20 minutes you'll be back to where you were...real good product, mine have been in app 4 years, absolutly no problems......jj
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A 1" urethane isolator on top of the spring would be wayyy better than the twist in doohickeys.
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darren wrote:
A 1" urethane isolator on top of the spring would be wayyy better than the twist in doohickeys.
I'm with jj on the,"Terry don't reverse the drop" butt as much as I do respect jj's input and experience, I'll have to go with Daren on which insert to use.
AND they're available in different thicknesses too. For more adjustimafication
Corky
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darren wrote:
A 1" urethane isolator on top of the spring would be wayyy better than the twist in doohickeys.
Be carefull using the top isolators/spacers. I agree that I would like the top ring spacers better than the twist in ones but if you read the fine print, a 1" spacer will raise the front end 2". I looked for a selection of ring spacers in 1/4" increments that would fit the Mustang spring. I was unable to find any
I only needed a spacer on the driver's side, to correct a sag. I ended up using the twisties.
My real advice for Terry is to install some roller perches and move them outboard, on the UCA, 3/4". You will recapture all the height that you lost in the Arning drop. Unfortunately, you cannot use the vulcanized rubber perches with the relocation. You'll bust the bond.
I, like you, experienced a considerably larger drop that is commonly advertised. My perch relocation mad me smile AND it is a much more relaxed position for the spring and adds to the stability and muscle of the front end.
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AHHG!! For crap sake don't put spring wedges in your springs...In addition to the drop did you also move the spring perches out 1"??? If not ,doing so will bring it back up to the stock height and give it even better geometry. When I did mine it also dropped way too far (1-1/2") buy moving out the perches and using 6cyl spring it sat exactly back to stock height and handled more like ah modern car rather then ah tractor..
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Dang it, terry, its not OUR FAULT you bought wheels that do not fit your car.
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boomyalI wrote:
.......looked for a selection of ring spacers in 1/4" increments that would fit the Mustang spring. I was unable to find any.....
Check the NPD Mustang catalog Coil Spring Insulators, you'll find there are several Mfgrs. between them are several thicknesses.
Possibly Terry would need the 3/8 in Improved Prothane set. 5415-2C
Tubo
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MS? What size are those wheels on your 66???
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I put roller perches on but did not move them out. I guess you mean that you drill new holes on the UCA closer to the ball joint by 3/4 or 1 "
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terry wrote:
MS? What size are those wheels on your 66???
Fronts are 17x7 with 235x45/17 4.7" backspacing (adding a spacer soon so it will be 4.5")
Rears are 17x8 with 5.72" backspacing, using a 1/4" spacer on a Versailles rear end, which is about 1" wider than a stock 65/66 rear.
Wheel backspacing is very important. A 16" tire has more side bulge than similar cross-section 17", just like a 16" has less than a 15".
I am not suggesting you change to 17". What size tires and what are the backspacings on your wheels?
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Yeah, drill new mounting holes 1" out towards the ball joint on the UCA. I think opentracker talks about it on his site. I highly recomend doing it. Not just to raise it up ,but because it handles MUCH better..
Last edited by Derek (4/23/2013 7:46 AM)
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ms. Mine are 17x7. Not sure of backspace. Was thinking 4.75. I would have to measure. I'm running 215/45 on all 4.
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You did have it aligned after you did the drops, right?
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Yep. It was aligned a week ago
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MustangSteve wrote:
Dang it, terry, its not OUR FAULT you bought wheels that do not fit your car.
This saddens me
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Yeah I'm bustin my butt to restore the body on my coupe and here's what some pants on the ground kid does with one
Last edited by Derek (4/23/2013 11:31 AM)
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I would love to see someone describe here how raising my car 1.5" will make it handle better. I kinda understand how moving the perch outwards will increase effective spring/shock stiffness. but upping the center of gravity must make for worse handling. I looked at opentracker website, but could not find the discussion on this issue.
Some of the photos above look like the front is siting way high. Almost like a boat. And frankly, I much prefer the lower look on my car. GT springs, 1" drop, roller perches, and 215-60x16 tires. No rubbing.
Last edited by lowercasesteve (4/23/2013 1:16 PM)
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The benifit is not so much ah "stiffer front end", (but better geometry). You want the spring and shock as close to, (on top of the spindle), as possible. Think of it like this, all the modern mustangs from 1979 till now use struts which as you know the strut is also your spindle. The benifit of this is all the force from the road and chassis are directed straight into the shock & spring rather then cantilevered into the chassis like our old mustangs do..
Last edited by Derek (4/23/2013 1:34 PM)
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Derek wrote:
The benifit is not so much ah "stiffer front end", (but better geometry). You want the spring and shock as close to, (on top of the spindle), as possible. Think of it like this, all the modern mustangs from 1979 till now use struts which as you know the strut is also your spindle. The benifit of this is all the force from the road and chassis are directed straight into the shock & spring rather then cantilevered into the chassis like our old mustangs do..
I cannot see any change in "geometry" by moving the perch outward. All it does is increase the spring rate and shock rate. If stiffer makes it handle better, so be it, but no suspension geometry is changed relative to the spindle. You are not changing caster, camber, toe, or scrub rate, or roll center. Newer cars move the spring mount closer to the ball joint so they can run a lighter, softer spring and achieve the same relative rate as the early cars had with a big heavy spring.
I would agree with you guys if you went ahead and installed a lighter rate spring and shock. If the goal is to make the stock original spring feel more like a 600# spring, then you ARE achieving that. But the geometry does not change.
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persevere,uses rubber spacer? best thing can do to Muz is the drop
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Now back to the issue raised. Did you consider bending the wheel lips?
The front are fairly easy, rears are more difficult.
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Okay so I read up ah little more on it and I agree "geometry" Is the wrong word. The term used from what I've read Is "Motion Ratio" . Buy moving the spring out to the end of the upper control arm,Or (Big lever) it will take away some of the leverage the suspension has to push against the spring, thus making it stiffer. This is why I had better results with ah 6cyl spring. BUT, the added benifit is now more of the energy is transferred directly into the spring & shock rather then cantilevered into the chassis..
Last edited by Derek (4/25/2013 7:07 AM)
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i considered the lip rolling but I feel about that like some others feel about cutting the dash for a radio!! Some people will do it some won't, this I prolly won't do. But thanks for the Idea!! I will prolly change the spacers under the rear axle and have yet to decide on the front!!
I prolly will put spacers above the front springs, I didnt mean I would reverse the shelby drop just will raise it up a bit!!
Last edited by terry (4/24/2013 8:57 PM)
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Me too T.........I'm already low-to-the-max. Did someone state that a 1/4" spacer would raise it up...1/2"?
6sal6
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