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Hello,
I've been researching the Borgeson power steering box, and from what i've read there seems to be a lot of people complaining of bad 'return to center'.
I know they recommend 4-5 degrees of positive castor, but i've seen lots of comments that state that doesn't help. Is an LCA with a spherical bearing (the kind sold by Opentracker) advisable to work with that much castor? Is it a good idea to have aftermaket Strut Rods to account for/ allow that much castor?
Also, it's not clear which Idler Arm is best - roller or stock type with rubber bushing. Which one helps/hinders the return to center?
I am rebuilding the steering linkages, and adding front disc brakes soon, and hope to add power steering later this summer. I want to put the correct Idler in and not have to change it later.
Lastly, I read up on the steering column bearing/clamp sold here, i will definitely plan on that. What is the best choice between the Borg rag joint vs a U joint? Is one more reliable/safer? (i read the thread about the one that slipped apart in traffic - yikes)
Thanks for any info or advice
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I installed a Borgy conversion in a 67 that was not my car, and it had zero RTC. This car had very wide radials and stock alignment. I told the owner to get it realigned with as much caster as they could get into it. I do not know if there was any improvement.
If you're going to pull on the lower control arm, it should have a spherical bearing in it or there will be some binding.
John
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I have the Borgesson box, and the opentracker full front end, so I think I can answer your question. The return to center works just fine, it is a little slower to return to center than the factory suspension was, but I also had skinny bias ply tires on with the factory and now have wide z rated tires on with the borgesson. There are a lot of variables at play.
I am running about 6 degrees of caster and the car drives straight as an arrow. I made my own version of the spherical bearing strut rods so that I could do that. I drive a lot of rental cars and now the steering and handling are just as good as any of the newer cars. I would suggest to do it as it greatly simplifies the hydraulics on the steering and you will probably never touch it again. See my post about drilling the new upper shaft so that it won't come out accidentally.
BobN
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I don't know what all these issues with return to center are about. I have had the Borgeson conversion on my 68 for almost four years and it works perfectly. I have Proxes Z rated 235/45R17 tires on the front with 245/45R17 tires on the rear. It tracks straight and true and the Borgeson rag joint coupling I installed is still tight. I have the idler arm with the bearings and the roller bearing spring perches, and I have Granada front spindles and power brakes, but the rest of my suspension is stock 68. I have done the Shelby drop and the alignment specs that were used were the "performance alignment" specs mentioned on Daze's website
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thanks for the feedback, much appreciated
i will definitely be adding the roller spring perches, spherical LCA and new UCA, as well as all new linkages.
i wasn't planning on the upgraded strut rods due to cost, but the consensus seems to be that they are worthwhile with that much castor.
the other consideration is the quick steer pitman and idler - has anyone used that? i would think that the extra throw of the idler arm and the pitman (about 1") would create more leverage on the steering box to improve return to center (in addition to quicker steering). I've read that this doesn't work well with stock power steering, but perhaps it's a good option with manual linkages and the borg box?
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I'm also a fan of the Borg box. Drives well! You would be hard pressed to use Ujoint because lack of room. Howard
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any issues with return to center? how much castor do you have?
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BobN wrote:
I have the Borgesson box, and the opentracker full front end, so I think I can answer your question. The return to center works just fine, it is a little slower to return to center than the factory suspension was, but I also had skinny bias ply tires on with the factory and now have wide z rated tires on with the borgesson. There are a lot of variables at play.
I am running about 6 degrees of caster and the car drives straight as an arrow. I made my own version of the spherical bearing strut rods so that I could do that. I drive a lot of rental cars and now the steering and handling are just as good as any of the newer cars. I would suggest to do it as it greatly simplifies the hydraulics on the steering and you will probably never touch it again. See my post about drilling the new upper shaft so that it won't come out accidentally.
BobN
I'd LOVE to see some pics and how-too's on your sperical struts. Do they mount up..sorta like the stock ones..or hang low like some I've seen.
6sal6
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