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4/21/2014 10:56 AM  #1


Granda swap issues, rears won't engage

 
I bought a 69 Mustang coupe with a questionable Granada swap several years ago and was hoping I might get some advice.
 
I never did get them right and the project stalled for a few years and now I'm back on it.
 
The car had a power booster of some kind (which is still in use), the master appeared (looked similar) to the 1969 master at the parts store (autozone) which I just replaced with what they sold as a 69 master that is said to be for front disk/power brakes . 

The car did not have the Granada proportion valve, and had adjustable proportioning valves for both left and right front brakes??? 

So I removed the adjustable valves, and installed the Granada proportioning valve per Mustang Steve's instructions with new lines (I used the cunifer from fedhill).
 
I also replaced the wheel cylinders with advanceauto cylinders, they are 7/8 wheel cylinders, and looked exactly like the ones I took off the car.
 
I bench bled the new MC and have bled and bled the wheel cylinders, can find no evidence air in the lines anymore, but I cannot get the wheel cylinders to engage.  I have the drums adjusted to just drag when spinning the wheel.  With brakes applied, I can still spin the drum.  I tried adjusting past the drag point where I can no longer spin the drums, and then let them back out to barely dragging.  I can take the drum off and when brakes are applied, the shoes do not move nor does the pins from the cylinder to the shoes.
 
I am wondering if I am missing a residual valve, or if there is one built into the Granada proportioning valve?  Or of their should be one in the master cylinder?

I'd certainly appreciate any ideas!
 
Thanks!
 

 

4/21/2014 11:43 AM  #2


Re: Granda swap issues, rears won't engage

Sounds like it might not be this simple but is the spool in your proportioning valve offset?  If not centered, it will direct your braking effort to only the front or back circuit.  Your ability to bleed the brakes seems to contradict this.  Try to re-center the spool - probably by cracking a front bleed screw to force the spool back.  Worth a try anyway.

 

4/21/2014 12:38 PM  #3


Re: Granda swap issues, rears won't engage

Can you post a picture of the master cylinder and nearby tubing, to include a pic of the proportioning valve connections?

Are the bleeders for the front calipers pointing towards the rear, or straight up?

Are the rear drums within spec as far as ID?

You might try blowing some compressed air backwards into the master cylinder ports to see if there is any dirt or blockage in the internal passages.  DANGER wear eye protection and keep MC cover on and hold rags around the air line to prevent any brake fluid from getting on you or the car's painted surface.  You will clean up and heal, but the paint won't!.

We had a similar post a few days ago and a new master cylinder apparently fixed his problem.  The fact you are getting fluid to the rears is troubling.  Can you still get flow back there by bleeding the brakes?  Is the brake warning light on the dashboard illuminated?


Money you enjoy wasting is NOT wasted money... unless your wife finds out.
 

4/21/2014 2:25 PM  #4


Re: Granda swap issues, rears won't engage

Thanks guys, I was not familar with the "spools" function in the proportioning valve.

I do get fluid when cracking the bleeders on both rear cylinders when the ole lady pumps the brakes.

The MC is new as of this past weekend.

On the prop valve, I am using one that is suppose to be the granada one, and looks exactly like the one pictured on your howto page.

I did bleed all 4 corners in the standard order, but spent alot more time on the rears becasue I had to wait until today to pick up the new calipers for the front.

I am replacing the granada calipers today, and I will re-bleed all 4 corners again and see where I am at; if tripped, I imagine after getting the fronts replaced and re-bled, should untrip this spool?

The light is yet to be hooked up, I assume I connected one side to ground and the other to the dash warning light (or for test purposes a lamp connected to 12V on the other end).

I read somewhere today that someone found that they were not opening up the bleeder screw enough, and that opening it further allowed them to find more air in the; this is where they thought they already had all of the air out of the system...  I usually only crack them open about 1/4-1/3 of a turn, do ya'll recommned opening the bleeders more than that?

Thanks!

Last edited by sizemoremk (4/21/2014 2:35 PM)

     Thread Starter
 

4/21/2014 2:40 PM  #5


Re: Granda swap issues, rears won't engage

The spool will not center on its own.  I would do this first to see if your system starts to work before you replace a lot of other stuff.  This is a write-up from the old site and a google search will also provide a lot of links.  Instead of using the brake light you can just check continuity at the switch.  If I had to guess, when the spool is off-center, the switch will make contact and when centered will return to open.  You can visually see the spool as referenced in this link.  http://members.boardhost.com/MustangSteve/thread/1352514449.html

 

4/21/2014 2:54 PM  #6


Re: Granda swap issues, rears won't engage

This is also a nice post - helps to explain how they work and a great centering procedure about 1/2 way down - http://www.fordification.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=44750

 

4/21/2014 5:29 PM  #7


Re: Granda swap issues, rears won't engage

Open the bleeder screw a full turn. It won't hurt anything and it might improve your brake bleeding.

 

4/22/2014 8:13 PM  #8


Re: Granda swap issues, rears won't engage

Thanks guys, the steps to reset the valve worked fine.

Looks like all four corners are good.

Car is about to come off the jackstands for the first time in 5 years!  Got the 5.0 EFI setup ready for its first test drive!

     Thread Starter
 

4/22/2014 8:21 PM  #9


Re: Granda swap issues, rears won't engage

Good news.  In the future you can either make a spool "lock" or purchase one - they are pretty cheap. Pull the switch and insert prior to bleeding and replace with the switch after you are finished.

 

Board footera


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