jkordzi wrote:

Do folks prefer to use the later model bellhousing, or an adapter for the original bellhousing?  If the later model bellhousing is the way to go, what years are compatible?
 

I got this one.

I prefer the T5 bell rather than the plate. I had an adapter plate on my Mustang and I had problems with it. The OEM Ford bellhousing did not have tight enough tolerances for the T5 and I ended up causing issues with the pilot bearing.  Afterwords I found out this is fairly common and that guys were having to use a dial indicator and shim their adapter plates to get the OEM bellhousing in specs tight enough for a T5.  That is why I swapped out for a T5 specific bellhousing and never looked back.  in fact both of my cars are running that set up.  you need a 5.0 T5 bell up to 1993.  Another advantage of the T5 bell is you can use the 93 starter which is an OEM gear reduction.  More expensive than a normal starter but cheeper than an aftermarket gear reduction starter.

jkordzi wrote:

Thanks Day - do I need the motor plate?  What did you do for a crossmember?
 

Are you talking about the backing plate??  if so yes other wise the bottom half of your clutch and flywheel will be exposed to dirt water, oil and other sludge form driving.  On my Mustang I was given an aftermarket crossmember.  Worked OK but I had to modify it.  On my Galaxie I made my own.  Contact Glen at www.rosehillperformanceparts.com  He is a regular here, is a T5 expert AND sells a fantastic crossmember he designed and builds himself.

Gonna need the block plate because that's what the starter bolts to. I GUESS you COULD just shim it...butt why?!
You can modify your tranny support(I did) butt-eye made about a dozen trips out/under the car making the mods. EZier (butt-mower expensive) to just buy one from Mustangs Unl. or one of the rest. I just like to modify my own stuff.......that's why they call it "hot-rodding"!
6sal6

MustangSteve wrote:

You need the T5 bell and the T5 block plate.  See my website FAQ page.  I have an article there that lists everything you have to do to install the T5.  I have crossmembers if you don't want to mess with making your own, but I applaud those who can do it themselves.  See the cable clutch page while you are on the site.
You will need a diaphragm type pressure plate and a 157 tooth flywheel.  If you use an early 289 flywheel, you must use a starter for an early manual transmission. The automatic or later model 5.0 starters will not work with an early 289 flywheel.  If your engine is an early 289 or 302 (early being pre-1982) you have to have the 28 ounce flywheel.  Later 5.0s like the 92 used a 50 ounce that will not work with early engines.

Thanks Steve. I saw your FAQ states that I'll need a 157 tooth 5.0 flywheel rebalanced for the 28oz 289/302/351W balance, along with the new pressure plate.  Is it possible to use my original 157 tooth flywheel and pressure plate?  Also, are the "roll pins that index the pressure plate to the flywheel" that you mention for the 5.0 flywheel setup and not needed if I use my original flywheel setup?
 

Last edited by jkordzi (4/26/2014 8:46 AM)

jkordzi wrote:

Is it possible to use my original 157 tooth flywheel and pressure plate?  Also, are the "roll pins that index the pressure plate to the flywheel" that you mention for the 5.0 flywheel setup and not needed if I use my original flywheel setup?
 

You can BUT even though it is extra $$ I would go with a modern diaphram type clutch and corrisponding parts.  The 5.0 Mustang has tones of clutch options.  How do you plan on actuationg the clutch??  if you go with a cable or hydraulic clutch a diapream clutch is required at which point you will need to upgrade all of that stuff anyway.  The pins are needed on the modern stuf but much of the older stuff does not use them.  They are well woth it as they keep things ligned up correctly.
 

Any engine or transmission part that is hard against any body parts, or near enough so it hits occasionally, will cause a whole lot of vibration and noise.  IF you intend to have a car you can enjoy driving comfortably,you will certainly want to do it right.  If you have dillusions of driving a race car all the time, what the heck... You don't need a five speed because a four speed would make more noise at cruise speed, right?  And less hassle to install.

There are several ways to assemble a car, and you can usually tell which ones were done a certain way, and which ones were done another way.  Whichever one you like is your choice.  Personally, I prefer everything to work as it should.

You can use the original 157 tooth flywheel but you will have to run a 10" diaphragm clutch with it, unless you have it redrilled for a 10.5" Fox Mustang type diaphragm clutch.  If you use the original flywheel, use the original starter, but the T5 bell and block plate.  That FAQ article was written many years ago and now you have more flywheel choices for reasonable amounts.  TMD sells a nice billet one with 157 teeth and 28 ounce balance, drilled for the 10.5" clutch.  Not sure which starter it uses.

jkordzi wrote:

I'm going to try to make a hydraulic clutch and power brakes work if I can, so I still have a lot more to go.

If you have any questions or problems getting your own hydraulic set up going  shoot me an email. I am well versed on hydraulic clutches (I sell a kit I designed) and would be happy to help you in any way I can.   Not trying to sell parts but rather offer any technical support I can for your project.

GPatrick wrote:

A fairly easy way to get your driveline angle close is to measure from the centerline of the output yoke up to the transmission tunnel on your current transmission.  This is your target for the T5 - rasie the tail end until you have the same dimension and you have duplicated what you already have and you can do this before you make or install a new crossmember to see what does or doesn't hit.

I agree that is the best way to do it however with a t5 in a classic mustang that will not work. The T5 is a lot taller than the stock transmissions used in a mustang.  Even if the T5 comes in contact with the tunnel it will still probably not be high enough at the tail shaft. (Depending on how the engine is mounted). So the best option is to get it as high as you can with out having it touch.

GPatrick wrote:

And I thought it was only the TKO that didn't fit.  Anyone know what the typical driveline angle is after a T5 install with no mods or percussion?

You are correct the TKO does require tunnel mod. A stock tranny is about 3 degrees down a t5 is closer to 5. A little off but workable in most cases. Some people need to shim their rear end up to eliminate vibration but in most cases if you put it as high as you can it works fine.

Daze wrote:

GPatrick wrote:

And I thought it was only the TKO that didn't fit.  Anyone know what the typical driveline angle is after a T5 install with no mods or percussion?

You are correct the TKO does require tunnel mod. A stock tranny is about 3 degrees down a t5 is closer to 5. A little off but workable in most cases. Some people need to shim their rear end up to eliminate vibration but in most cases if you put it as high as you can it works fine.

When I got the T5 in the Mach.... Using the Toploader Lakewood Scatter shield and T5 adapter plate (it fits really tight on the lakewood) I ended up with a -3 degree angle on the trans. My diff was sitting at 0, so I finally put in 2.5 degree shims on the rearend and no more vibrations... They weren't Good Vibrations to begin with...

I am running the 5 1/2 rear leaf springs. Don't even need traction bars when I run slicks... No Wheel Hop. The Pinion Angle shims are working awesome...