A pan change will require an oil pickup screen change to ensure it sits correctly in the sump and does not interfere with the crank. Your pump should be fine.  You should check this out in your case - it may not be the pan - it could also be the pickup screen.  I was just reading that stock windage trays and main stud girdles can interefere as well.  Are you running ARP rod hardware?  It can also cause some issues because they stick out a little further than stock.  A lot of postings indicated that a stock pan should work but apparently not always.  Should is a lot less certain that will.  Here is an idea I read on one site so I can't say for sure that it will work - especially with how gaskets will fit - =13.333333969116211pxUse late model 5.0L torque spreaders and bolts. Available at Ford parts counters. These are two strips of heavy metal that runs the full length of the pan on each side. It had holes drilled in it for pan bolts. Simply flatten the dimples and install with torque spreaders and your problem is solved.

Follow up. The oil pan is not the issue. Thinking back to the last time I rotated it. The whole engine was assembled until I decided to change the Time Chain and sprockets. Which led to having to having to change to a different Fuel Pump eccentric because the older style wouldn't work. Which led to me having to make a replacement alignment pin for this because my originals were too short.
I had set everything to TDC and assembled everything. I never rotated the engine because I wanted to set up my distributor at a later date.

Fast forward three months and I rotate engine to connect the Torque Converter.

So I will pull the engine front back of to see if this is issue. Won't be able to touch it until next weekend.

Crate engine would have been cheaper, quicker and easier........ but I would have missed the indepth knowledge that I am gaining each day.

6s6 That is what I am hoping. I made the pin from a cut down stainless steel ARP bolt. I was pretty sure it was flush with the front of the eccentric, but I need to take the front off to look. Unless I can look through the fuel pump port. Haven't checked that. I am headed to Florida for a funeral, so this will eat away at my brain for the next three days. I have actuall considered going out to the shop to look, but we leave for airport in 1/2 hour and wife was not giving me an encouraging look.

Nasty65 wrote:

you were able to change the cam sprocket pin without removing the cam from the engine? I don't see how that's possible. Even if you did, how did you drive it in, and assuming you got that far and it went in too far it wouldn't hit the block....it would be near the distributor drive gear of the cam.

Naaaaaa...mine pulled right out! I had to make a longer one too. used a grade 8 bolt(cut off) and some loctite.
6sal6
 

6sally6 wrote:

Nasty65 wrote:

you were able to change the cam sprocket pin without removing the cam from the engine? I don't see how that's possible. Even if you did, how did you drive it in, and assuming you got that far and it went in too far it wouldn't hit the block....it would be near the distributor drive gear of the cam.

Naaaaaa...mine pulled right out! I had to make a longer one too. used a grade 8 bolt(cut off) and some loctite.
6sal6
 

Wow, the last couple I had to do were a pain to get out, comp cam hyd roller grinds.  Still don't see how it could be driven too far in, more likely the new timing set is rubbing on the block or interfering with the timing cover, or maybe the fuel pump arm slid in on top of the excentric instead of under.
 

Last edited by Nasty65 (5/19/2014 6:39 PM)

Steve you wrote "On a one piece eccentric, the timing gear is flat on the front and the long dowel must be used and it must stick into the eccentric, but not all the way through it.  The forged steel washer must be used and the washer covers the dowel to hold it in place."

I don't have this washer that you describe Steve. It didn't come with the comp cam timing set. Any pictures or formal name? I put a new timing set up and cover to work with the better water pump. It wasn't until I read the comp cam install paper work that I found I couldn't use the old eccentric.

Steve I got back from Florida this afternoon and focused in on the Washer you describe. I had installed it, and it was the correct hardened  washer.

Along the way I found my rotation issue on what I like to call The Good, The Bad and the Ugly.

The Good: Washer is installed and appears to not be an issue.

The Ugly: I pulled the harmonic Balancer from the engine because I could have easily ground the metal off without any further issues when I ran into the ugly. I didn't think I was torquing the Timing Cover down with extreme pressure, but apparently I did. It happened before I set the Oil Pan in place becasue the sealant from that actually oozed up through the crack.
I also look at the rotation issue as a blessing now, because I would not have found this crack until I had the eninge installed and was starting the break in of the Cam.

Never would have expected the water pump hitting the dampner. Never would have guessed that could happen to the timing cover either. Going to have to keep an eye out for that from now on.

Nothing was out of the ordinary. I wonder if when I drove the seal on the front I cracked or weakened it. I used a block of wood under the new one I pressed in today.