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After reding that article...guy sounds like he's done one or two...I decided to move the pinion a couple of thou. deeper (back).
Hear's the final result with .008 to .009 back lash. Right at the bottom of the range and the pattern has moved a bit close to the root. Good chance I'll go back to where I was tomorrow.
And here's the coast side. Closer to the heel and root.
Like I said, I think I'll go back where I was. That article says that with this type of gear...Face Milled....the pattern needs to be centered on the X/y center line of both sides. It was much closer to that before, I think.
BB
BB
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Well, you didn't need to do it but you did and now you know so you can undo it! I am always suspicious when it comes out perfect the first time myself. When I was woking on one a few years ago a person who had done a lot of the 8.8's said that the gears were very consistent and the variable was the housing. They said to re-use the same shim or replace with new with the same thickness and it will come out right since the shim was effectively sized to the housing. I am sure there are a few pinons out there that will vary so it always pays to check. The carrier shims however need to be set each time for proper bearing preload and pattern but they suggested starting with what came out as a baseline.
Time to button it up! Make sure to use Ford products for the clutches. My Explorer started to chatter so a shop drained it and put in a modern gear lube claiming to be compatible with Ford rear ends. It got worse immediately so I drained out a little and put the stinky Ford stuff in and in only one trip around the block it was as good as new.
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GPatrick wrote:
Well, you didn't need to do it but you did and now you know so you can undo it! I am always suspicious when it comes out perfect the first time myself. When I was woking on one a few years ago a person who had done a lot of the 8.8's said that the gears were very consistent and the variable was the housing. They said to re-use the same shim or replace with new with the same thickness and it will come out right since the shim was effectively sized to the housing. I am sure there are a few pinons out there that will vary so it always pays to check. The carrier shims however need to be set each time for proper bearing preload and pattern but they suggested starting with what came out as a baseline.
Time to button it up! Make sure to use Ford products for the clutches. My Explorer started to chatter so a shop drained it and put in a modern gear lube claiming to be compatible with Ford rear ends. It got worse immediately so I drained out a little and put the stinky Ford stuff in and in only one trip around the block it was as good as new.
Yep, that whole set up was with the factory pinion and carrier shims that came out of it. With the new bearings the carrier shims are quite a bit tighter...which is good...but can be driven in without much trouble.
The trac-loc kit is from FRP and came with Ford's stinky finest. That and two quarts of 75W-140 synthetic and it should be fine. I soaked the frictions in lube + stinky over night so that shouldn't be a problem either.
Thanks again for the help and advice.
BB
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Bullet Bob wrote:
GPatrick wrote:
Well, you didn't need to do it but you did and now you know so you can undo it! I am always suspicious when it comes out perfect the first time myself. When I was woking on one a few years ago a person who had done a lot of the 8.8's said that the gears were very consistent and the variable was the housing. They said to re-use the same shim or replace with new with the same thickness and it will come out right since the shim was effectively sized to the housing. I am sure there are a few pinons out there that will vary so it always pays to check. The carrier shims however need to be set each time for proper bearing preload and pattern but they suggested starting with what came out as a baseline.
Time to button it up! Make sure to use Ford products for the clutches. My Explorer started to chatter so a shop drained it and put in a modern gear lube claiming to be compatible with Ford rear ends. It got worse immediately so I drained out a little and put the stinky Ford stuff in and in only one trip around the block it was as good as new.Yep, that whole set up was with the factory pinion and carrier shims that came out of it. With the new bearings the carrier shims are quite a bit tighter...which is good...but can be driven in without much trouble.
The trac-loc kit is from FRP and came with Ford's stinky finest. That and two quarts of 75W-140 synthetic and it should be fine. I soaked the frictions in lube + stinky over night so that shouldn't be a problem either.
Thanks again for the help and advice.
BB
Soooo BulletBob.......are you say'in...."you-made-a-stinky?!"
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BB, I've been in MG land for a couple of days but it looks to me like you have it done quite well. When I put same gear set back in same housings, the original shims most always work. Your pattern is pretty good for less than 500HP.
Dave
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Thank you DC. That's a confidence builder. I may be able to get it better by opening up the BL a bit. We'll see.
Mike: Yes, regularly. Actually, that stuff stinks so bad that Jean came in the shop yesterday and nearly lost her breakfast. Guess I'm just used to it...or overpower it.
BB
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BB, IIRC the sharp edge at bottom of tooth is NOT what you want. The feathered look is what you want
on both sides. Howard
Last edited by hmartin025 (5/19/2014 9:41 AM)
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hmartin025 wrote:
BB, IIRC the sharp edge at bottom of tooth is NOT what you want. The feathered look is what you want
on both sides. Howard
I agree, Howard. My plan right now is to go back to square one. That produced a softer pattern that was not quite so deep. Then I'll play around with a bit more backlash and see if I can move the pattern toward the crown just a touch.
That article that jkordzi posted is really good and explains how to set up the two different types of gears that the 8.8 might have.
Thanks for the help. By the time you borrow my alignment tool we'll all be experts.
BB
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