Hey Steve it's a Cardone 10-1485 said new not re manufactured on box,tho that # when checked says reman! could be a stock thing I also see it says for Drum brakes!,
I got part # from a list of parts and invoices  used on the vehicle when PO was restoring, that's not to say previous on taken off was exactly like new one both are identical, to look at

Jimmy

Last edited by Fastbackbhoy (7/06/2014 6:49 PM)

I'm pretty sure it's leaning toward the push Rod being too long ,even tho I re used the original one , there may be a slight difference in  NEW Mc that's causing front brakes to drag, The car will Push backwards,But will not push or Rol Forward with all 4 wheels lifted right and left front wheels dragging Rear wheels are free and adjustment is spot on, I may look at 2 options once I disconnect  push Rod and see if it releases pressure? I'm going to try to get an Adjustable push Rod and set up see if that works. My feeling is it's just keeping the pedal from relaxing .

Does the 68 Bigger bore manual brake MC  with front disc Give better brake performance/Pedal?

JIMMY

Last edited by Fastbackbhoy (7/08/2014 6:59 AM)

Release the parking brake...

The original rod from your CAR is the one to use.  All the master cylinders mentioned have same engagement depth.

The MC you are using is for all wheel drums and isn't designed for disc brakes. It's not very common anymore for replacement MCs to have residual pressure valves in the port(s) that feed the drum brake circuit(s), even if it's an OEM replacement MC.

However, it may be possible that you just happened to get a replacement drum/drum MC with RPVs . If this is the case, the residual pressure valve would keep a slight amount of pressure applied to the brakes on the front brake circuit, which could keep the caliper pistons from fully retracting and would cause the front brakes to drag.

The RPV can be removed from the MC (if the valve is present), to operate on a disc brake setup. However, that does not solve another (potential) problem.  Fluid capacity of drum/drum MCs and disc/drum MCs is different.  A disc/drum MC will have more fluid capacity. Your MC may actuate the brakes now but as the thickness of the disc pads wear down, the fluid level in the primary bowl is going to drop. Disc brake pads are much thicker than the lining thickness on a drum brake shoe.

If the pads wear down enough, the current MC could run out of fluid reserve to supply the calipers. If this happens, you run out of brakes.

A MC actually designed for the brake system setup you have will likely give you much better results and the safety of having plenty of fluid reserve to continue supporting the brakes even after the friction linings have worn down.

Last edited by ultrastang (7/11/2014 8:13 PM)

http://m.oreillyauto.com/mt/www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/OBH0/NMC1614/01292.oap?year=1980&make=Ford&model=Granada&vi=1130016&ck=Search_01292_1130016_787&pt=01292&ppt=C0066

You don't necessarily have to buy from this particular parts company but, this is probably the best match for your brake setup.