| ||
Visit MustangSteve's web site to view some of my work and find details for: FYIFORD Contributors' PICTURES - Power Brake Retrofit Kits for 65-66 Stangs - Classic Mustang FAQ's by MustangSteve - How to wire in a Duraspark Ignition - Mustang Ride Height Pictures and Descriptions - Steel Bushings to fit Granada Spindles to Mustang Tie Rods - Visit my EBAY store MustangSteve Performance - How to Install Granada Disc Brakes MustangSteve's Disc Brake Swap Page - FYIFORD Acronyms for guide to all the acronyms used on this page - FYIFORD Important information and upcoming events |
Offline
So guys my attempt to remove my rusted bolt out of my timing cover failed. I now need to get a new one or good used timing cover. Am I correct that 260 289 302 351w covers all will fit as long as it has a mechanical fuel pump attachment spot on it? I found this one on eBay seems to look nice
this should work correct? Also if anyone here has one in good shape I wouldn't mind buying it off you.Offline
Yup that'n will work. It will even take a 70 (& later) water pump, even reverse rotation. I have on the 331 in Miss May. Highly reccommend use stainless bolts to attach the timing cover.
Tubo
Offline
Why would you need a different timing cover if an attachment bolt broke ? Unless you boogered out the hole it can be saved. Heli coils work pretty good if you can get most or all of the bolt out which is usually pretty easy to do in aluminum. Only time a heli coil won't work is if there is not enough material around the hole to drill oversize or the hole is just too big to use the right heli coil, the usually a solid insert like a keensert works.
Offline
What engine do you have? That timing cover has the 70 and newer style timing pointer on the passenger side, for use with a 70 or newer 4-bolt balancer. If you have a 69 or earlier water pump and pulley system, you need a 289 style cover with the pointer on the driver side, where the corresponding marks are located on your harmonic balancer.
There are several variations of the basic timing cover, even in the first five years of Mustang V8's.
You will also want to remove the flange on the lower crank seal hole so you can use the later style balancer seal that installs from the outside. The early covers required cover removal to change out a seal. Newer seals only require removal of the balancer.
Offline
My engine is a 1965 289. The reason for a whole new cover is a heil coil won't work it backs out threw the cover before it will seal the water pump.
Offline
take a sidecutter and shorten it up, unless I am misunderstanding what you are typing.
Offline
The early 65 pumps were aluminum w/9 mounting bolts, 5 were into the TC cover. The next generation had a cast iron pump that also eliminated some of the lower bolts, 3 I believe.
It is not clear to me what bolt is broken. If it is one of the water pump to TC cover, I'm not sure why it can't be removed and/or repaired by heli-coil as other posts have suggested.
Can you post a picture?
Offline
Yes the bolt did break off in a water pump to TC cover bolt hole. I have fully removed the bolt and did attempt to use a heli-coil. But my problem is he my heli-coil backs out of the hole before I can get a good water pump seal on my timing Chain cover even with using rtv silicone w/rubber gasket.
Offline
I found this cover late 65 cover
I'll probably get this one for my car. Now Msteve which year balancer seal do I get so I can mount mine on the out side of my cover. And do I have to alter my cover to make it work?Last edited by True74yamaha (7/11/2014 6:52 PM)
Offline
My neighbor gave me a timing cover he had for a 302 crate engine for free. Will this work for my 65 289?
Offline
MustangSteve wrote:
What engine do you have? That timing cover has the 70 and newer style timing pointer on the passenger side, for use with a 70 or newer 4-bolt balancer. If you have a 69 or earlier water pump and pulley system, you need a 289 style cover with the pointer on the driver side, where the corresponding marks are located on your harmonic balancer.
So If I was switching to a 5.0 serpentine belt system would the 70 and up cover be the route to go?
Wouldn't that timing pointer work on the Pre 70 Cover? Thanks Steve69
Offline
Post a pic of the old timing cover next to the new one. 65 covers were way different than that one if you got one of the early 65 ones.
You have not given enough information about what timing cover you have for anyone to tell you what can replace it.
When you insert the heli-coil, are you breaking off the tank once it gets screwed in place? That will usually let it stay in place. Also, some red loctite on the heli coil, let to dry for a couple of days (WITHOUT THE BOLT IN IT !!) will keep it where it belongs.
Offline
True74yamaha wrote:
I tried to use one of these on my 351W (although it did not have the Ford casting number on it and may have been a cheap reproduction) and had issues with clearances inside - IIRC there's a boss cast around the inside of the seal hole that rubbed on something but I don't recall exactly.
Offline
If its one of the top 3 bolt holes of the timing cover/waterpump you are refering to, you can certainly use longer bolts and nuts on the backside of those. On my 289, I have an aftermarket a/c bracket that uses two of those holes, so I have nuts on the backside. Its hardly stock looking, but its hardly noticeable, either.
Offline
Mine is c30e-6059b it's a 65 289
Offline
I have a cover very similar to what ...yamaha posted. Turns out tdc is not where the pointer is cast in. In my case, it's off by six degrees, so I made up a new pointer with a kink in it to point to true tdc.
Offline
I believe the water flow path on a reverse rotation pump is different on the timing cover, than a standard rotation pump timing cover. The newer motors with the serpentine belt systems use the reverse rotation pumps. Lay your old cover next to a serpentine motor cover and I think you will see the difference.
Offline
Your C30E cover likely has the open impeller water pump, right? If so, you need that same timing cover that uses the open impeller pump. The timing cover forms the rear cover of the water pump.
Do you have the aluminum pump or iron pump/.
Offline
Early 289 cover is not shown.
Offline
I have the 69 302 with the water pump lower hose on passenger side. Looking at the diagram my 1979 Mustang with a 302 had the same routing of belt system as the 1990 efi pump. Im thinking that had to be reverse rotation also. But when I look at the waterpumps from a 1990 mustang 5.0 it looks like the same pump at a 69 302 pump. Im running a cool flow aluminum water pump.
Steve69
Offline
69 was std rotation. 90 was reverse on Mustangs
Offline
MustangSteve wrote:
Your C30E cover likely has the open impeller water pump, right? If so, you need that same timing cover that uses the open impeller pump. The timing cover forms the rear cover of the water pump.
Do you have the aluminum pump or iron pump/.
I have an aluminum pump.
Offline
Found this thread maybe useful in tech pages ms or something. Show small block timing covers
to bad I guess the cover won't work as there is no timing marker...Last edited by True74yamaha (8/18/2014 11:26 PM)
Offline
That is a great link with vast info !!! I bookmarked it.
Your aluminum water pump requires the timing cover that matches it. It must have the cavity for the back of the water pump to fit into, which none of the late 65 or later ones have.
Yours looks like this one, right?
Offline
MustangSteve wrote:
That is a great link with vast info !!! I bookmarked it.
Your aluminum water pump requires the timing cover that matches it. It must have the cavity for the back of the water pump to fit into, which none of the late 65 or later ones have.
Yours looks like this one, right?
Yes mines looks like that ms. I had a aluminum water pump though. I know cause I changed it.
REMEMBER!!! When posting a question about your Mustang or other Ford on this forum, BE SURE to tell us what it is, what year, engine, etc so we have enough information to go on. |