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8/22/2014 12:07 AM  #1


Seam Sealer

 So as I turn my focus the the inside of the car, the floor pans, I had planned on leaving the seam sealer intack and just painting over it.  However, in the rear seat section I see alot of the seam sealer is old and there was rust underneath, so I got a wild hare andstarted removing most of the seam sealer  to reveal a little rust. I treated it with OSPHO, and will grind it down before Epoxy application. My question is about re-sealing these seams again, do most do this or just leave the seam sealer out, it seems to just cause some rust underneath? I dont plan on driving in down pours, or leaving the car outside in the rain. Any thoughts?


All men die, but not all men truly ever live.
 

8/22/2014 6:44 AM  #2


Re: Seam Sealer

I remover all the seam seraler on my '69 and after cleaning and painting I put down Dynamat which seals and really makes a difference in noise. 


IF IT'S TO LOUD YOUR TO OLD
 

8/22/2014 8:02 AM  #3


Re: Seam Sealer

I used 3M Fast N Firm 08505 on the inside and outside of every seam after the epoxy. You never know if someone is going to kick over a bottle of water.  You've gone this far.......

 

8/22/2014 9:09 AM  #4


Re: Seam Sealer

marsfl1 wrote:

I remover all the seam seraler on my '69 and after cleaning and painting I put down Dynamat which seals and really makes a difference in noise. 

I have seen dynamat used before, it seems like a good product! Also, I am wondering how effectively the Master Series AG 111 Chassis Kit will seal the seams up? It claims to be very strong, bonds very well and extremely hard after it cures. I am sure it will do a good job if sealing most of the seams after its applied. Any experience with this product?
 


All men die, but not all men truly ever live.
     Thread Starter
 

8/22/2014 2:00 PM  #5


Re: Seam Sealer

I used Eastwood's seam sealer on the interior seams and am pleased with it.  I didn't finish the interior for several years after application of the seam sealer and it didn't peel off in any location.  I did also install Dynamat but I don't believe it is considered a replacement for sealing these joints.
I agree w/TimC, you've gone this far ...


65 Fastback, 351W, 5-speed, 4 wheel discs, 9" rear,  R&C Front End.
 

8/22/2014 2:20 PM  #6


Re: Seam Sealer

I painted my interior with POR15 and then rolled on bedliner from a can I bought at the auto parts house about 6 years ago. I then put a layer of dynomat exterme butyl liner on top of that for my entire interior.

Due to a leaking windshield I can attest that it is completely waterproof and will hold water for days. I can also report that after three of those "bathtub" experiements, both the dynomat and the bedliner are holding up well and do not appear to be delaminating from the other layers.

I also sealed the seams in the trunk area with 3m paintable seam sealer from a can and in areas where it was thicker than 1/8" it eventually cracked. It took about 2 or three years before it cracked. I will be stripping that out eventually and doing the roll-in bedliner in the trunk as well.

BobN

 

8/22/2014 3:34 PM  #7


Re: Seam Sealer

I used Lord Fusor 803EZ, which is a urethane based seam sealer.  Mine came in a caulk tube.  It went on just like caulk but can be brushed to look like the factory typical swabbed-on appearance if you want.  I dries firm but flexible and can be painted over (whcih I did).  Very happy with it.

Last edited by jkordzi (8/23/2014 9:25 AM)


Cheap, Fast, Good:  Pick Any Two
 

8/23/2014 8:05 AM  #8


Re: Seam Sealer

This is the perfect time to take care of all the work underneath while its on the rotissary.
After I had mine media blasted, it was primed and I used Eastwoods brushable seam sealer on ALL of the seams! I had disposable plastic hyperdermic needles that I filled with the seam sealer and just forced it into all the seams following that with an acid brush to level it out. Had to work in small sections cuz the the seam sealer skinned over and was hard to spread. Then I coated with Bed Armor from Advance Auto.

 

8/24/2014 10:11 AM  #9


Re: Seam Sealer

Chelby-Ann wrote:

This is the perfect time to take care of all the work underneath while its on the rotissary.
After I had mine media blasted, it was primed and I used Eastwoods brushable seam sealer on ALL of the seams! I had disposable plastic hyperdermic needles that I filled with the seam sealer and just forced it into all the seams following that with an acid brush to level it out. Had to work in small sections cuz the the seam sealer skinned over and was hard to spread. Then I coated with Bed Armor from Advance Auto.

Chelby-Ann, thats the same exact product I used to undecoat the underside of my car, it it great stuff from what I can tell. However I did not seam seal the underside like you did, now that I see this I wish I would have. I guess I could go back and re-seal it down the road and re-apply more under coating for good measure! For I now I am going to focus on finishing the inside, using Master Series AG111 Chasis kit with the silver undercoating that is a rust inhibitor, then seam seal over the silver as it seems to be the consensus here, then finish with the Epoxy black top coat. Not sure if I will roll on anything ovet the top of this as it is supposed to be a great stand alone unit! Thakns for all the input from everyone here, much appreciated!
 


All men die, but not all men truly ever live.
     Thread Starter
 

8/25/2014 4:45 PM  #10


Re: Seam Sealer

Seam sealers today are probably light years ahead of what the factory used 50 years ago.  You need to seam seal every gap, inside and out.  Condensation will occur at some point letting moisture into the seams and and water you drive through will keep the overlapped spot-welded areas wet for a long time.

I used rubber undercoater after painting the bottom with rustoleum, over the seamsealer.   I regret doing the undercoating. It is impossible to wipe down the bottom of the car to remove any grease slung off by the ujoints or cleanup of normal road grime. If doing over (and I'm NOT) I would paint it with a gloss light grey paint in the areas between the frame rails. The dark undercoat makes it very difficult to see under there when working on the car.  Even the factory red primer is better than black, if wanting to be able to see what you are working on is at all on your list.


Money you enjoy wasting is NOT wasted money... unless your wife finds out.
 

8/26/2014 9:51 AM  #11


Re: Seam Sealer

MustangSteve wrote:

Seam sealers today are probably light years ahead of what the factory used 50 years ago.  You need to seam seal every gap, inside and out.  Condensation will occur at some point letting moisture into the seams and and water you drive through will keep the overlapped spot-welded areas wet for a long time.

I used rubber undercoater after painting the bottom with rustoleum, over the seamsealer.   I regret doing the undercoating. It is impossible to wipe down the bottom of the car to remove any grease slung off by the ujoints or cleanup of normal road grime. If doing over (and I'm NOT) I would paint it with a gloss light grey paint in the areas between the frame rails. The dark undercoat makes it very difficult to see under there when working on the car.  Even the factory red primer is better than black, if wanting to be able to see what you are working on is at all on your list.

I had not thought about the darkness complicating visibility under the car, nor had I thought about clean up, like they say "hindsight is 20/20". I dont forsee re-doing the underside at this point, but I will most likely go back and seal the seams underneath, then re-coat with undercoating. As for the inside, I will definetly seam seal everything, as most everywhere I have pried up the old seam sealer there has been flash rust. So I am treating all rust with OSPHO, grinding it off, then plan to use Master Series Silver primer/sealer, seam seal, then top coat with the Chasis black like I mentioned before.
Thanks Ya'll!
 


All men die, but not all men truly ever live.
     Thread Starter
 

Board footera


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