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Hi there, I just swapped a 5.0 and t5 into my 68 from an 88 gt, used steves cable conversion and roller bearing kit. The pressure plate is the one from the 88, the cable is a 96 one, the clutch fork, flywheel, and throwout bearing are all new.
the pedal is really heavy, the firewall actually flexes under the strain. Its not the routing, as the cqble slides freely when its discobnected from the clutch fork..
I cannot move the clutch fork by hand...
when it was in the 88 the pedal was perfect, really light and smooth..
Anyone know what it might be?
cheers,
Mark
Last edited by markw (9/10/2014 4:12 PM)
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The first obvious question is: did you install a new diaphragm style clutch when you installed the cable actuator? The stock finger style clutch does not work well with the cable. You should be able to push the clutch pedal in with one hand with a diaphragm clutch.
Last edited by Hornman (9/10/2014 8:50 PM)
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It is the original stock gt one I think lots of fingers close together.. surely it should have the same feel as the 88 mustang it came out of though ? Everything is the same as stock except the pedal? I drove the 88 for a year, then swapped stuff over, the feel is very different.
is there some difference in leverage or some assistance on a fox body clutch pedal compared to the mustang steve setup? I thought the whole point aboit the stece kit is is correct geometry?
Last edited by markw (9/11/2014 1:07 AM)
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Which bellhousing are you using? The original from the 68 or the late model GT? What is the part number of the clutch fork since you indicated it was new? Is it the correct fork for the 88 belhousing or do you have an early style fork in a late model bellhousing or vice versa? If it is the stock 88 pressure plate as Ron mentioned, you should be able to actuate the clutch pedal by hand with the conversion. So, something is not right in your setup potentiallly so we might as well go through it part by part to see what is not matching up. Please be patient with the basic questions but it is best to cover the easy stuff first. Did you buy the pedal with the quadrant from Steve or did you build your own?
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Hi, thanks for the reply,
the bellhousing is from the 88,
the new clutch fork is this one
the new release bearing is -
I bought the pedal complete from mustang steve, im using the longer cable, it has a good straight path to the trans, and is also brand new.
I made my own non adjustible firewall bracket.
thanks,
mark.
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markw wrote:
Hi, thanks for the reply,
the bellhousing is from the 88,
the new clutch fork is this one
the new release bearing is -
I bought the pedal complete from mustang steve, im using the longer cable, it has a good straight path to the trans, and is also brand new.
I made my own non adjustible firewall bracket.
thanks,
mark.
Is it possible that the throwout bearing is hanging up on the T5's bearing retainer - what it slides on? The stock T5's (except for cobras I think) came w/ aluminum bearing retainers that commonly get a lot of wear. I've seen a few that were pretty galled. Many folks replace the aluminum one w/ a steel replacement Ford and the aftermarket make for that very reason.
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Since I already answered this by email, I will repeat it here. (you guys know how I LOVE getting emails and forum postes on the same subject)
If you cannot move the lever arm by hand, and the cable works freely, we know it is not a cable system problem. The cable system on your car has the exact same leverage as the Fox Mustang, the cable works freely and the clutch pedal, I assume, also works freely.
It is a clutch release bearing problem. Most likely the new bearing is having a hard time sliding on the bearing support tube on the front of the transmission. Either that or the disc is in backwards. But, since the car will drive, but with a heavy pedal feel, I would look at the bearing being able to slide freely on the support tube.
You should inspect the lever arm to be sure the bearing is correctly installed on the lever arm, and that the bearing will slide on the tube. To some extent, you can inspect this through the bellhousing window. The problem is you cannot really inspect the bearing's ability to move once it starts to compress the pressure plate.
In the picture, note the groove on the ID of the bearing and the bearing's orientation on the release arm. That groove should be full of grease.
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Hey,
sorry about emailing.. wasnt sure how often youd check the forum... thanks for thd quick reply.
When you say disc in backwards are you talking about the friction disc?
I dont know if the car drives yet, its newly bult, trans isnt even filled, so I can easily drop it to take a look at the bearing. as far as i remember it should be in the fork with the free spinning disc facing the clutch fingers, i greased the bearing shaft when i installed it, dont know if i was too conservatve though.
One thing I did notice when fitting the new bearing was that I couldnt get the fork and bearing assembly onto the pivot pin easily, I think I had to do it with the bell unbolted, where the original, I think, came off with everything bolted up.
ill drop the trans today.. so I should look for greasing, galling, and proper seating of the bearing.
cheers,
mark
Last edited by markw (9/12/2014 3:20 AM)
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On your firewall brace... Are you certain the cable is clearing the cowl floor and the edges of the hole? It might slide easily with no load on the cable but might be binding when the cable gets pulled taught.
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Yeah, im pretty certain of that, I checked it a million times with the cable clamped taut when I was making it. Ill double check for sure, though I don't hear any grinding or scraping or untoward sounds.
I had a look through the clutch fork window, it looks well greased and slides easily up to the clutch fingers with the cable detached... and the throw out bearing looks to be seated correctly.
Im going to pop the original cable from the 88 in later and see if that makes any differencetoo.
Cheers, mark
Last edited by markw (9/13/2014 1:26 AM)
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There are two diameters of throwout bearings, if you have the larger one that is intended for use with a three finger pressure plate on a diaphragm pressure plate it will push really hard, I made that mistake when I put mine together years ago, I had a cable clutch system on my 70 FB and it pushed really hard and I thought it was something wrong with the geometry of the quadrant, I removed the cable and installed a hydraulic system and it also pushed really hard, that is when I investigated further and found I had the larger bearing, swapped to the small bearing and it pushes easily now.
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Steve, you got a chance to use my pic of the TO bearing. Lol. Just to add my two cents....mine is a heavy pedal. I tried everything. So far I've got over 1000 miles with this set up. I've gotten use to the heavy pedal effort. Well worth it!! Love the T5.
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I stole the pic from Buzek! I guess he lifted it from you. Whatever works!
Can't imagine why you guys have a heavy pedal. What pressure plate?
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Steve,
I've got an OEM plate from a 91 mustang. Only cause that's what year my tranny is. I'm also using the 91 bellhousing and 157 tooth flywheel.
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Hey lil' hoss,
Thats interesting, didnt know that, the bearing I got from summit is linked a couple of posts up... is this the larger or smaller one do you know?
I wish I had kept the old bearing and fork now. Would be an easy compare.. dammit.
Last edited by markw (9/14/2014 3:52 AM)
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