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  •  » Idler arm.

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    9/19/2014 12:44 PM  #1

    DBROWN
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    Registered: 9/10/2013
    Posts: 132

    Idler arm.

    Started putting my steering back together with all new moog tie rods and idler arm. The idler arm is sloppy when slid over the shaft mounted to the frame rail. Is there supposed to be any play between the idler arm and the shaft before tightening down? I checked the old idler arm and it felt the same way. Is it supposed to get tighter when you tighten up the nut and squish the rubber?  The new arm also came with a soft thick washer almost like dense foam, where does that go? thanks Dale

    Last edited by DBROWN (9/20/2014 12:48 PM)

     

    9/19/2014 1:15 PM  #2

    GPatrick
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    Registered: 4/01/2013
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    Re: Idler arm.

    What is the year of your car?  In 67, I believe, there was a change in the output shaft diameter as a running production change.  Post your car's year and the pitman arm part number you selected.  You don't want to run the large pitman arm on the smaller diameter shaft.  And by your write-up, I assume that the shaft you are referring to is the steering box output shaft?

     

    9/19/2014 1:53 PM  #3

    DBROWN
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    Re: Idler arm.

    Sorry GPatrick, I feel so stupid. I was actually talking about the idler arm. I edited my original post. The car is a 1966 mustang, 289, c4, converting to power steering. The idler arm is K8106. The shaft is off the manual steering but the old idler arm has the same slop. I am wondering if when the idler arm is tightened down the washers squish the rubber against the shaft and that is the way it is designed.  

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    9/19/2014 5:51 PM  #4

    MS
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    From: Canyon Lake, Texas
    Registered: 1/24/2013
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    Re: Idler arm.

    For many, many years, several different manufacturers sold complete idler arm assemblies that came with both pieces.  I am wondering if some of those different manufacturers might have used different diameter shafts and bushings.  I have not installed an idler arm on anything for quite a few years now (R&P is the norm) but when I did, I used to always try to buy a complete assembly so all the parts matched up.

    Money you enjoy wasting is NOT wasted money... unless your wife finds out.
     

    9/20/2014 12:55 PM  #5

    DBROWN
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    Re: Idler arm.

    So I torqued the new idler arm down, play seems to be gone but the arm rotates smoothly. I thought the arm was suppsed to bind, for a lack of a better term, pulling it side to side would flex the rubber bushings and pull it back to center when force stopped being applied. Any insight or recommendations welcome/needed.

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    9/20/2014 1:55 PM  #6

    barnett468
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    Registered: 9/15/2014
    Posts: 770

    Re: Idler arm.

    DBROWN wrote:

    Started putting my steering back together with all new moog tie rods and idler arm. The idler arm is sloppy when slid over the shaft mounted to the frame rail. Is there supposed to be any play between the idler arm and the shaft before tightening down? I checked the old idler arm and it felt the same way. Is it supposed to get tighter when you tighten up the nut and squish the rubber?  The new arm also came with a soft thick washer almost like dense foam, where does that go? thanks Dale

    the sponge washer goes on before the arm . you are correct it should not move easily and it should return to center there are only a couple that are made to do that . . if yours moves at all if you push or pull up or down on it i would not use it . as meentioned the assemblies are a little better .

     

    9/20/2014 2:39 PM  #7

    Bullet Bob
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    From: Montrose, Colorado
    Registered: 4/01/2013
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    Re: Idler arm.

    DBROWN wrote:

    So I torqued the new idler arm down, play seems to be gone but the arm rotates smoothly. I thought the arm was suppsed to bind, for a lack of a better term, pulling it side to side would flex the rubber bushings and pull it back to center when force stopped being applied. Any insight or recommendations welcome/needed.

    The stock (66 anyway) power steering idler arm is supposed to lock to the shaft (frame) when torqued properly.  The bushing then flexes to help return the steering to center.  I tried to find one for a long time without luck even though NPD sells the replacement bushing...finally found an NOS one with the help of Josh-K-Bob.

    But now, I noticed in the latest NPD catalog that they are offering them.   If your's turns easlily it is not a PS arm though it will work with PS...just won't return to center. And, as others have stated, if t doesn't fit the shaft properly you probably don't want to run it.  As I recall there is no difference between the PS and MS idler arm shaft.

    BB

    "you get what you pay for, good work isn't cheap, and there are NO free lunches...PERIOD!"
     

    9/20/2014 3:40 PM  #8

    Opentracker
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    From: Carmel, CA.
    Registered: 4/02/2013
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    Re: Idler arm.

    All of the new Moog K8106 idler arms have a lubed bushing. It looks like rubber but it's not. It has a waffle design on the inside to hold  the lube and let the idler move freely. 

    Have the car aligned with at least 2 degrees of positive caster and it should return to center. 

     

    9/21/2014 8:50 AM  #9

    DBROWN
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    Re: Idler arm.

    Opentracker wrote:

    All of the new Moog K8106 idler arms have a lubed bushing. It looks like rubber but it's not. It has a waffle design on the inside to hold  the lube and let the idler move freely. 

    Have the car aligned with at least 2 degrees of positive caster and it should return to center. 

    Thank you for all the responses, very helpful. Opentraker, that was some really good info, thank you. 

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