http://www.reincarnation-automotive.com/Duraspark_distributor_recurve_instructions_page-2.htmlWell gaba your half way there!
You need to put something in the distrib to LIMIT the total advance to aprox 36*.(that seems to be the magic number)
I made a bushing from a section of a pushrod(that is the right diameter) that slips on one of the posts that is in the groove in the plate the weights side in. (confused yet?! Hard to explain. I will find a pic on the net that shows it and will post.
6sally6
Here's a good example of where to put the bushing I made and where to "stick-it"(so-to-speak) Put it on the post  and should be real close.  When setting the total timing don't even worry where the initial is.....just rev the engine with the timing light shining on  the tape....and  lock the distrib when it  gets on the 36* mark.
As you know its a pain-in-the-rump butt-well worth it for the gains (like most things)

Last edited by 6sally6 (10/01/2014 9:25 PM)

Hmm I like going to the shop but they never teach anything lol I like to learn . Yeah I'll break it but then I'll get to fix it hahaha

I'll look for that kit . And drawing the curve is a good idea I'll see what comes up. I'll discinnect the vaccum advance .

It looks like that kit if for a GM HEI distributor, not a Ford.

Gaba, hold on a sec.  There is a (kinda rare) vacuum advance canister that may be your problem.  So, before I go into the long version, on the end of the canister where the vacuum hose hooks - is it just part of the canister, or does it look like a large nut that can be unscrewed from the canister?  If it's the one that looks like it can be unscrewed, there is a whole new variable.  Go here to see what it looks like:  http://www.428cobrajet.org/id-dist-vac-advance  It's the first one that you will scroll to.  If it's that one, let me know and I'll try to walk you through it.  It is really a good unit, it is almost infinately adjustable, and totally misunderstood.
Good luck.

hello;

ok, your vac adv has very little to do with your pinging.

what distributoir do you have?

what is the total timing with the vac disconnected?

what is it with the vac connected?

what is your idle timing with hose connected and disconnected?

do you have a big cam?

what octane are you running?

what is your compression?

with the vac disconnected, what rpm does it reach max advance?

are your springs loose in the tabs or is there slight tension?

 

Last edited by barnett468 (10/02/2014 2:43 AM)

barnett468 wrote:

hello;

ok, your vac adv has very little to do with your pinging.

what distributoir do you have? Ford 69 original

what is the total timing with the vac disconnected? I ill check while making the curve as suggested here

what is it with the vac connected? Same as above

what is your idle timing with hose connected and disconnected? Idle at both is 6 degrees set by me last week

do you have a big cam? Nope just not stock. A little sharper nothing crazy

what octane are you running? 93

what is your compression? Compression ratio I don't know. Compression :: 150-160 on each checked few months ago

with the vac disconnected, what rpm does it reach max advance? Will check

are your springs loose in the tabs or is there slight tension? I don't know where to find springs . Haven't taken the distributor apart yet

 

Answers in the quote please check

I checked on the Mr Gasket springs, and they seem to be for a GM. Please guide if they will work righht..  ? thanks

Nasty65 wrote:

Gaba wrote:

I checked on the Mr Gasket springs, and they seem to be for a GM. Please guide if they will work righht..  ? thanks

springs are stupid, they don't know what they are being put in.  They will work fine for you.
 

NAWWWW!!!!! My springs talk to me heeheeheee :D :D . They are cooler than yours! you just dont know it yet! :D Have a few beers one of your springs might talk too! ...   

I am really just kidding.. Please take it as a joke :D .. 

SOmetimes.. those talking springs can be too tall or too short, Thats what I wondered.. 

Alright. So I did some leg work here. Here is my advance chart for the car. YEAH. . looking at that, I just went ahead and blocked my vaccum advance port on both ends, and till I get this resolved, I am driving on mechanical only.. LOL probably save fuel more that way .. haha

any waz.. made a graph to more make it easier to interpret what you are seeing. Take a look. 



Now what do you think 

I stopped at 3000rpm as I was sitting in one place, and revving at 3000 .. just didnt feel it would be happy to go any higher.. do you think you would need more data ?

Your initial timing is way down to begin with I have about 10-12 degrees initial timing. I know you may have done that to eliminate the pinging you are having around 2500 rpm but you are way down in power right now. A typical timing curve for a non-stock engine would look something like this:



In the graph, you can see that mechanical advance only takes this from 18 to 38 degrees. That is only 20 degrees of mechanical advance, your graph shows 25 degrees of mechanical advance - and it may add a lot more as you go further up the RPM band.

I would take it apart and check the slots on the reluctor arms you probably have a 16L or an 18L. I would rotate it around so that a smaller numbered slot is on the pin. I ended up welding a bead in the slot and grinding it down so that I could further limit my mechanical advance. Use the chart below for the slot numbers:

8L slot = 16 degrees centrifugal advance = .358”
9L slot = 18 degrees centrifugal advance = .384”
10L slot = 20 degrees centrifugal advance = .410”
11L slot = 22 degrees centrifugal advance = .436”
12L slot = 24 degrees centrifugal advance = .462”
13L slot = 26 degrees centrifugal advance = .488”
14L slot = 28 degrees centrifugal advance = .514”

There are two springs, one under tension at rest and one loose at rest The spring under tension will provide the initial timing ramp in your graph. Once it stretches enough for the loose spring to be under tension, that will cause the flat spot in the timing curve (on your distributor, that is around 2000 RPM). Be sure when reassembling the distributor, that the loose spring is visible through the small square hole in the breaker plate. This is so that you can reach in there and bend the tab to tighten or loosen the spring without disassembling the distributor. The graph above shows what happens when both springs are under tension at rest. I think you need a graph that looks a little more like this:



You more than likely need a stronger spring for your primary spring and a smaller reluctor slot. Make sure not to have both springs under tension when installed, one spring should have an oval loop at one end and should be a bit loose.
Order Crane Cams advance kit #99607-1

Also pick up a spare distributor cap. Cut a slot in the top between the posts for cylinder 8 and 5 (this includes the post for 1). Once things are reassembled check the rotor with the timing light to make sure that through the rpm band you are not getting cross firing due to the rotor being out of phase with the posts. This can be caused by the length of the vacuum advance arm, or the reluctor (gear under the rotor) being installed 180 from where it was supposed to go.

This should put you where you need to be in short order. I only have this info ready for you since it took me about two years of tinkering to finally have a ping free engine under all loads and speeds. (both graphs were just grabbed from google so don't critique the numbers, they are just examples)

enjoy!
BobN

Last edited by BobN (10/03/2014 4:57 PM)

Gaba wrote:

Driving her right now. And at about 2200-2500 Istill have pinging. No vacuum advance being used

ok, your timing is fine. since you still have pinging your compresaion is too high for the octane you are using and/or, your csrb is too lean.

What are the EXACT cinditions that it pings under.

Your mileage will go DOWN without the vac adv but as i mentioned in my last post, leave it disconnected for now.

Also as i mentioned, your low tension spring should have tension on it. If you turn your adv unit and feel any freeplay with no tension just bend the spring tabs as i suggested, this is not complicated.

there is no possible way you should need a bushing on the stop to reduce total timing if you are using the narrow slot. something does not add up. do you have 12:1 compression or something?

actually you do not need to cut a hole in the cap to check your rotor phasing. simply set your timing to 10 deg btdc. draw a line from the center of the cap post to the dist housing. remove the cap and the center of your rotor should be in the general vicinity if the center of the line. if its ff by 1/4 inch its ok. if its off ny more than something might be wrong but its very rare to get the wronf vac adv but it obviously does happen.

reducing initial timing ir running stiffer springs is nit the proper way to address the problem. it is a band aid but its one you may need to use if you don't find the cause of the problem.

if you have a holey, try 2 sizes bigger on the primary and secindary jets. your power valve should be a 6.5

if you have a stock ford 2100 or 4100 carb then drill your jets out to a number 55 drill size.
.

  

Last edited by barnett468 (10/04/2014 1:31 AM)

Gaba wrote:

I am running a Holley 650 4barrel with 66 on the jets if anything I am rich lol.. Always have been. Power valve is 6.5 like you said .

How can the timing be fine .. When I ping.. more confused . It shouldn't be pinging at 2000 like this should it?

I retard the timing and it's fine... But no power obviously .

Way more info is needed on your engine. The timing is fine because that is less timing than most engines with mild to moderate cams and around 9.5:1 static compression or less can run on 91 – 93 octane. There is no way a box stock 289 engine will or can ping with that level of timing on 91-93 octane so obviously there is something else that is the cause.

a basically stock engine with headers needs 64 - 65 jets in a holley at sea level.

why do you say it is rich?

if it accelerates smoothly with no hesitation it is not extremely rich.

if you look at your plugs and they are a very lite tan or lighter, it is not rich.

cam? 

headers?

static compression?

compression measured with a quality gauge?

cylinder bore?

water temp?

your elevation?

spark plug number?


 

Last edited by barnett468 (10/04/2014 8:40 AM)