I used the MustangSteve torque specs when I installed my JB shorties.  Obviously it is impossible to get a torque wrench on the header bolts going into the heads.  Using a long handles Snap-On box end wrench, I tightened the bolts as tight as I could get them by hand.  On the ball/socket connection to the h-pipe, I coated the female part with red RTV and tightened them up as tight as I could... to the official "right before they break" torque specs. 
I had to remove the h-pipe 3 or four times after having run the engine as I changed out mufflers 3 times.  There was never even a hint of any red RTV in the connection when I took it apart.  Makes me wonder if it did any good.  I think maybe it helped the two parts slide as they mated together, making a perfect seal.  A dab of grease probably would have done the same thing.

I got a few shots before and after installation. I will post soon.

FYI -


Just got off the phone with Doug in Tech Support at JBA Headers (part of Pertronix - who answered the phone with that name)  and he admitted that the 30 in lb torque called out in their installation instructions was in error and it should be 30 ft lbs for iron heads. He said he would get it corrected immediately.

Don't these people proofread their stuff?

I'm the same.  As has already been pointed out, you cannot get a socket on all the bolts anyway.  My approach on all headers, which has worked fine on these headers, is to put a box end wrench on them and basically tighten them until I cannot stand hurting my hands any more.  I believe, but have been unable to confirm, that this is the magical "right before it breaks" point that Mustang Steve was refering to.  No exhaust leaks for over 15 years with these same headers.