I used the PA Performance wiring kit for my upgrade. Simple and works with original gauges.

Not just any Tautus fan, good one is from 3.8 V-6. Might also look at the twin fan Contour as a donor.

Tubo

It's kinda a want factor for my car.   Plus with a clutch fan new thermostat water pump new radiator flushed system I sit at 220 all day.   That temps off the manifold

Okay thanks. I forgot to mention I also have a 6 blade fan with clutch installed. For those that have done this swap.  Did your car run a lot cooler ?

MustangSteve wrote:

Not sure why you want to go through something like that, but if you do, I have a brand new 3G alternator and wiring conversion kit I will make you a good deal on.  I decided my 66 with the 427 and A/C, power windows, power door locks, MSD ignitionm MSD EFI and radio did not need anything other than the stock stuff to power it.  A stock replacement alternator did the trick, as did a stock type flex fan.

I always love the "somebody said you need this" quotes, even though I am very often at the center of the conversation, stating what you need.  

I'm with MS on this.  Get what you need, not what others think you need.  That is unless you want to do it because it is slick or you just want to do it.  Lot's of us do that.  I have only headlights and radio on mine, so there is no need for a 3G.  I got that chromed alternator about 30 years ago from my mechanic for cheap.  It has worked like a charm since then.

As to the fan.  I have a copper 4-row radiator, 5 blade flex fan, and Shelby scoop under the bumper.  180 deg thermostat.  No shroud.  351W.  The temp does just fine till about 100 degrees in traffic.  I put this setup together in 1989, so there is a lot of experience with it.  Back then there was much less of our knowledge available.  You just started doing things till it worked.

Pardon the dirty engine compartment.  I would rather drive the car than clean it.

MustangSteve wrote:

Not sure why you want to go through something like that, but if you do, I have a brand new 3G alternator and wiring conversion kit I will make you a good deal on.  I decided my 66 with the 427 and A/C, power windows, power door locks, MSD ignitionm MSD EFI and radio did not need anything other than the stock stuff to power it.  A stock replacement alternator did the trick, as did a stock type flex fan.

I always love the "somebody said you need this" quotes, even though I am very often at the center of the conversation, stating what you need.  

Amen!

BB

Why bother with the 175 A fuse between the alternator and solenoid?   The 6 awg wire is only rated for 110 A so the fuse, which is there to protect the wire between the alternator and solenoid, serves no purpose,  It's not protecting the alternator either because it won't blow even if the alternator output maxes out at 130A.
 

John Ha wrote:

Why bother with the 175 A fuse between the alternator and solenoid?   The 6 awg wire is only rated for 110 A so the fuse, which is there to protect the wire between the alternator and solenoid, serves no purpose,  It's not protecting the alternator either because it won't blow even if the alternator output maxes out at 130A.
 

 I agree John 175 is over kill. For a 130 Amp alternator I would fuse it at around 125 Amps. Keep in mind wire ratings are for what wires can handle safely, not when they will burn open like a fuse. Also a short piece of wire can handle more current than a long piece.

DC wrote:

My actual experience showed that the 175 amp fuse does blow so fast that the other stuff does not heat up enough to get hurt. I had a metal rod I used as a hood prop, and a friend managed to knock it loose in a way it happened to wedge between the frame rail and the post on the solenoid making a direct short with car running. Well, the fuse blew and protected the alternator, but the battery current turned part of the prop rod to vapor. Oh yeah, I now have a wood hood prop!

Kind of the point I was trying to make, the battery will do way more damage than the alternator. I am kind of surprised a 130 Amp alternator blew a 175 Amp fuse though.

BobE wrote:

To expand on my caution, using wsinsle's post of the alternator wiring.  The concern I have is with the circuits connected to the positive terminal on the solenoid.  If a short occurs on one of these circuits, the typically #16, or #18 wires will burn and/or cause a lot of damage while the 175amp fuse upstream in the circuit will not even be challanged to blow.
Modern vehicles have power distribution circuits, with fuses/circuit breakers, that fed subcircuits that contain smaller fuses/circuit breakers to provide the proper electrical protection.  Installing a high output alternator w/o considering the potential impact on the downstream circuits can lead to serious problems.

Exactly Bob, another point I was trying to make. Anything leaving the central power point (Solenoid) should be fused. Don't matter if you have a 10 Amp alternator or a 200 amp. If you have a short circuit the battery will do the damage. I know some one will say my car has been wired like this for 50 years with no issues. Doesn't mean its the best wat to do it.

MustangSteve wrote:

Not sure why you want to go through something like that, but if you do, I have a brand new 3G alternator and wiring conversion kit I will make you a good deal on.  I decided my 66 with the 427 and A/C, power windows, power door locks, MSD ignitionm MSD EFI and radio did not need anything other than the stock stuff to power it.  A stock replacement alternator did the trick, as did a stock type flex fan.

I always love the "somebody said you need this" quotes, even though I am very often at the center of the conversation, stating what you need.  

Steve is right, unless you've got a trunk full of woofers, keep to the kiss system. (keep it simple st you figure it out)

Last edited by bulletbirdman (10/09/2014 9:31 PM)

I have the old 4-core regular radiator with a single  Hayden style fan from the auto parts store. (I also have the fibreglass Shelby apron on the front) Wired to come on at 160* and off...??!?(when it gets cool I guess!)
IMHO it cleans up under the hood really nice and I get a lot of ..."hey..you got an electric fan!") comments..if that's important. That race-car look don't-you-know!!!
Only failed my once in the buncha years I had it. Happened at the worse possible time/place of course....butthay! Got another one at the closest parts house and put it on in their lot.
I also think it MAY have a possitive effect on the life of the water pump. (Just my way of thinking) 
You COULD just leave the old tried-and-true belt drive fan.....if you want to be just like everybody else....I don't.
6sal6