| ||
Visit MustangSteve's web site to view some of my work and find details for: FYIFORD Contributors' PICTURES - Power Brake Retrofit Kits for 65-66 Stangs - Classic Mustang FAQ's by MustangSteve - How to wire in a Duraspark Ignition - Mustang Ride Height Pictures and Descriptions - Steel Bushings to fit Granada Spindles to Mustang Tie Rods - Visit my EBAY store MustangSteve Performance - How to Install Granada Disc Brakes MustangSteve's Disc Brake Swap Page - FYIFORD Acronyms for guide to all the acronyms used on this page - FYIFORD Important information and upcoming events |
1 of 1
Offline
I have noticed that my 68 with a late 80's 5.0 liter exhibits valve ticking noise at idle after slowing down from highway speeds. There is a noticeable drop in oil pressure at the same time.
Motor was rebuilt a number of years ago with very low miles on it. ( Less than five thousand. )
Valve noise rarely occurs under any other circumstance. Except for the odd very brief tick on start up, it does not make any noise in city driving, and has good pressure in the middle of the gauge most of the time. I did get a noisy start after an hour of highway driving and then parked for an hour. Went away within seconds.
Problem seems to be oil starvation after dropping down from highway RPM's? Any ideas how to improve oil flow in this situation?
Offline
What is the pressure reading after you come off the highway? Does it drop 20PSI or drop to zero? Are you running the original hydraulic roller lifters?
Offline
Also is the car over heating? and what weight oil are you running?
Offline
What oil type and viscosity are you using? What pan was installed and what pickup tube was used? When it was rebuilt was a new oil pump installed? And, what oil filter are you running? All of these individually or together can lead to reduced oil pressure. Marginal cooling or running a pulley set with reduced water pump speed can also cause temps to spike after coming off a highway and reduce viscosity. When you shut down under these conditions, it will often cause some lifter clatter upon startup. If you have used any teflon additives these can clog the pump pickup screen as well. I'd probably start with a slightly higher viscosity oil (unless you are running 20/50 already) and a fresh Motorcraft filter and see if symptoms improve. If good oil and filter don't, I'd be tempted to pull the pan, verify that you have the correct pickup, and replace the oil pump. If that doesn't help, you may be looking at bearings. One last thought - if you are running a carb and have it over-rich or if you have a choke issue, you may end up with gas in your oil which reduces viscosiy significantly. Give it the smell test and check for a strong gas smell. You can also pull the dipstick when your pressure drops and verify how thin the oil is (or isn't).
Offline
I am running 10W30 Valvoline oil and PH8A Fram filter.
Both were changed in November and car has run about 100 miles since then. I experienced this issue last summer as well when I took a road trip on the old oil and filter.
It does not overheat. Runs steady dead center of the heat gauge even after coming off highway. I am running 24 inch rad and a 180 degree thermostat. Gauge only ever spikes briefly on a hot startup, until coolent flows to carry away the stored heat, then settles right back to the middle.
My oil gauge just has the range, no numbers. Runs steady in the middle during driving and normal idle. I would say it drops to the bottom of the range on stopping from a higway run at idle. Not quite zero but sometimes close. Picks right up again when I start driving once more and returns to the center. If I ease off to a more gentle stop from the highway as opposed to letting the rpm's drop suddenly right to idle, it seems to help reduce the pressure drop.
Engine had a front sump pan put on to make the 5.0 liter fit over the 68 crossmember. Unsure what
pump and pick-up were used. It is a 4 barrel carb set up with an electric choke. It is an original roller engine.
Offline
I would make sure you have the correct dip stick ...sounds like you are low on oil...add a quart and re-test....jj
Offline
I have had hydraulic roller lifters make a ticking sound. It will tick real loud and then go away. Not saying that is how it should be, but have had it happen, and upon teardown found nothing wrong. One bad thing about roller lifters is they do not rotate in their bores like flat tappets do. I think that can create more wear in the bores.
I would not be too concerned about the oil pressure issue. If you have good pressure going down the highway, the pump pickup and oil pan clearance are obviously just fine, and you have plenty of oil in the engine.
If the noise perisits, I would probably pull the intake and check every lifter. 6sally6 can attest to what happens when a roller lifter fails. Basically you tear down the engine to remove all the schrapnel. Better to find a bad lifter before that happens. The Ford 5.0 roller lifters are known to be nearly bullet-proof, and rebuilders will often reuse the old ones if they look OK. I did that on Cara's 65 5.0 engine when I rebuilt it. It did not make any noise.
Before you tear totally into the intake, I would check the valve adjustment, if it has adjustable rockers. If you have one with a little extra clearance, going down the highway might have enough oil pressure to keep the lifter pumped up and tight, but then at low RPM it may develop the gap due to lower pressure. If you are using pressed in studs, lay a straightedge along the top of them to see if one is a little longer than the rest. That would indicate a rocker stud pulling out. If you have the later 5.0 heads with bolt-down rockers, all you can do is check to see if the bolts are tight.
Offline
How would one identify a bad lifter with the intake removed.
I happened to take some pictures when I took the EFI intake off, just before I installed the 4 barrel intake.
Does this tell you anything?
Offline
Doesn't tell me a thing! Looks good,really.
I'm betting the bearings are worn...or a pump going bad. FoMoCo are famous for running low oil pressure. 40 or even 20psi is normal in most cases. My 289(before engine swap0 would go to zero at warm idle! Drove it that way for years! Try thicker oil.
6sally6
Last edited by 6sally6 (5/06/2013 5:07 PM)
Offline
Bear in mind most vehicles use light for O.P. so you never see the varations in Oil Press. As long as the pressure is above 10 pounds or so. Try 20-50?
Howard
Offline
Looks pretty damn dry ???....jj
Offline
The implication of my message was that by pulling off the intake, you could remove the lifters and inspect the rollers and the pistons in them. Now that I think about it, I am not sure you can actually pull the roller lifters out of their bores without removing the heads first. They are so long, the heads keep them from coming all the way out.
I like that thicker oil idea from Howard and 6sally6
Offline
Thanks for all the input. I think I will try heavier oil to see if that keeps the pressure up top when I come off higher rpm's.
Photos appear dry as they were taken after rebuilt and engine sitting unfired for a long time. It had not been fired up at this point. I swapped out the intake before ever running it for the first time.
Pored some oil down each head before initial fire up.
1 of 1
REMEMBER!!! When posting a question about your Mustang or other Ford on this forum, BE SURE to tell us what it is, what year, engine, etc so we have enough information to go on. |