In deeper than planned, I know there has to be a bottom, I think I saw it with that 4wd hoonigans video..
A little introduction: bought a 65 6 cyl coupe knowing it had a lot of drive train issues and planned on spending a few $ to make it a nice driver. Missed signs of some rear collision repairs, but it is a CA car with black plates and very little rust, new interior, and looks good from 10 feet away .. ready to take on shopping carts.
Long story short, I am on a path to replace the entire drive-train, suspension, steering, brakes, and possibly the engine, and trying to figure out what I don't know before I get neck deep in the..
What I have learned since the purchase:
- Lots of character flaws, every time we drive it there is a new squeak, bump or thud. Suggested to my wife it would be easier to start with a new stereo and consider it done.
- Previous work on this car was done over a storm drain, none of the fasteners match, even the drivers side mirror had 1 flat and 1 phillips screw. Thought I should mix in some random torx screws for balance.
- Early 60's car engineering is a little off. Concours doesn't seem safe at all .. drum brakes, single reservoir master cylinder, negative camber, bump steer, chronic dim headlights, non-collapsible steering shaft, no rear seat-belts..
- The 170 6 cyl will get you there, but by second gear, everybody has gone around already. Every upgrade path to potential triple digit hp and graduate the vw bus race class leads to a v8.
- Planning on keeping the exterior the same but upgrading the drive-train, with a lean towards economy and daily driveability.
Now I am sitting here in the garage about 2 months in:
- Found a complete V8 hubs/spindle assemblies with a set of mustangsteve brackets for 2009 gt brakes including the calipers/discs. They look bigger than the 14” wheels on the car, but that set the direction for brakes/wheels.
- Complete set of moderndriveline parts to adapt a T5 to the 6 cylinder, including the shifter, etc.
- Bought a rebuilt T5 off an e-bay seller that came with a cracked case and turned into a total nightmare, should probably post some info to warn others about this clown and some intricacies of the e-bay money back guarantee..
- Bought a set of a 17x8 late mustang rims and near new tires with adapters. Funny thing is they last came off another 65 mustang. Not sure if I should narrow the fronts or get new rims, but needed something to roll with.
- Couldn't see investing in an 8". Finding a ready 8" is hard, and a 9" to fit is nearly impossible, so new 9" showing up next week.
- Bought the mustangsteve rear gt disc brake brackets and procuring the parts for 4 wheel discs.
- Have all new front suspension, tie-rods, mid-eye leafs, sway bar, and lots of miscellaneous parts/pieces.
- Found a used T5, no id tag on it, but it came attached to a 85 roller cam 5.0l, so pretty sure its a v8 model! Engine is questionable, but sounds like a good year for what it is.
- Will be ordering the mustangsteve power brake/clutch cable assembly to be better positioned for a V8 swap now or later.
- Hope to be nearly parts complete by next week-end, and just a little over budget..
So.. now deciding whether to adapt the t5 as originally planned, or just go for it with a full v8 conversion?
Story on the v8 is the guy bought it for his 67, saw it run, but then sat in his garage for 8+ years. The engine accessories/hoses/wiring is complete, and the engine vin area is stamped FF243 85, which seems a little short on digits, but matches the year he stated. Has an edelbrock performer, holley carb, and clean oil in the engine.
Big concern is pulled the plugs and one was completely missing the outer electrode, and of course completely fouled. Looks like it broke off, not burned off.
So whats the shortest path to figuring out if this is a go/no go? Go fishing with a magnet? Compression test? Leak-down test? All of the above? Pull the heads? Install it? Flip it?
Thanks
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josh-kebob wrote:
