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Hello guys,
I've read a few posts where MustangSteve has said he's not a fan of underrider traction bars, but I've spent a number of hours reading through forums and weighed pros/cons and I think I'm going to go ahead and install the ones I have. My questions are these: The car is still a shell in the metalwork stage, and I'd like to complete all welding before I move onto the next phase. If I don't know what wheels/tires/springs I'm going to be using, how do I load the rear of the car to ride height so that the bars are aligned properly prior to welding? And how precise does that approximation need to be? Does the car need to be level front-to-back? I have the original springs and some old wheels/tires, but not sure how great of shape they're in. Haven't thought this through yet, but could rest the axle directly on cinder blocks for consistent height then rachet strap the body down to a specific height. But then how much should I measure and to where, quarter panel lip to center of the axle? Also, what happens if I change springs later or use lowering blocks or something, how would this affect the existing traction bar installation? Any tips would be appreciated.
Last edited by Jieve (12/13/2014 4:18 PM)
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Get a set of CalTrac bars and forget all the welding. I have a set on my '69 Mach 1 They work great.
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How do you feel about the handling all around? I spent countless hours researching this on the web and the majority of caltrac reviews that I found said that they worked great for driving in a straight line and for drag racing but for general streetability not so much. I already have a solid set of underriders that I'd prefer to stick with (although I guess this isn't NECESSARILY set in stone), but would like to get started installing them as soon as possible.
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The car needs to be totally complete before installation. If not, the rear suspension will be in more of a bind than it will be in after installation. The ride height will change the spring position ever so slightly. Need to weld in place in static position. After that, the suspension will always be in a bind except when in static position.
The best bars would be ones that are equal in center to center length as the distance from the center of the rear axle to the center of the front spring eye bolt.
My better solution was to buy the performance 4-1/2 leaf springs. with over 500 HP and a heavy foot, no traction bars are required now and the car rides very well.
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MustangSteve,
can you describe your rear suspension setup (springs, shocks, bushings)? Based on the forum posts I've read around the web, it seems that some people were able to solve their wheel hop problems with springs while others needed to use traction bars, as the springs didn't solve the issue. I guess I could just wait until the car is running, and if I have still have issues with the heavier springs, then install the traction bars.
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4-1/2 leaf reverse eye springs from Mustangs Plus
Bilstein shocks
9" N-Case with 3.50:1 traction lock.
TKO 600 trans
aluminum 427 stroker
66 fastback
Wheel hop is no longer an issue at all.
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I have the underrides on both of my cars, 68 289 coupe, and 67 390 gt. Both work fine, I noticed in a panic stop there wasnt any spring wrap up like before, that was major! I say if you have em, put em on. But like ever yone says, do it after the car is complete and running and sitting on its own weight. You wont be dissapointed.
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I installed my under riders about 25 years ago and have had no problems. They are actually Traction Masters. I don't know if they are still in business.
And do as the rest say. finish the car first. Get it settled as to ride height. Only then install the traction bars. and then with the weight on the car.
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