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Have you changed your Distributor Cap and Rotor? You get spark when connecting the coil wire directly to a spark plug--the fault has to lie in either a bad distributor cap or a bad rotor OR a mismatched cap and rotor..One other thing is how the distributor is timed; the point at which the coil fires through the rotor, is the rotor pointing at a terminal in the distributor cap?
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Thanks to all who have stuck with me this far. Unfortunatly, still not there (although, the new coild isn't here yet)
Well, ran home on my lunch hour to double check and found that the coil is hooked up properly, and the coil primary resistance is ~0.7 Ohm and the secondary resistance is ~7.3 kOhm (Pertronix Flamethrower 2, the numbers match to the specs)
Tried calling MSD tech support. No help. Had me check a few things, all worked out to show things should be working. However, when I had the distributor removed for a test and had to put it back in the block, all per their instruction, he just announced "there are a bunch of calls backing up, maybe you can get it back togther and call back later" and hung up. So... yeah.
Hopefully I'll get that coil tomorrow, but I'm not holding my breath on that working.
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I'm hoping that new coil solves your problem. If not, this is starting to sound like the timing chain has skipped a tooth or two.
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this is quite simple, i would try what i and tko suggested then report back with the results, otherwise we are just guessing which does not help you.
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Last edited by barnett468 (1/02/2015 4:56 PM)
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With the plug firing right off the coil , two things can be determined. 1 Coil is working, and 2 the distributor is telling the control box to tell the coil to fire. Chris H had a good point in mentioning that making sure the cap is in fact making good contact with the rotor. The center carbon point has to touch the metal tang on the rotor also. Something I will add is to make sure that the inside of the cap is clean and free of dirt and moisture.
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When you pulled #1 plug how did it look? Had a case where 5 people were checking every obscure possibility on a car when I asked them if they had checked and cleaned all the plugs. They looked at me like I was an idiot until they pulled them all and they were completely carboned up (of course they never bothered to say gee, he was right). With a new set of plugs it fired right up. If you have limited run time on the motor, it could be that you were running richer than you thought and you may have fouled several or all of them. Can't remember if you said you were running cooler plugs but you may want to revisit the heat range if they are indeed fouled. With all the issues you are having, I would probably just replace them anyway just to tick a low-cost item off the list. Also make sure you are not running a platinum plug with the MSD. They state pretty clearly to use good old copper plugs with their ignition equipment.
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Is this a roller cam or flat tappet cam? If flat tappet what additives are you running to avoid cam/lifter damage? With stiff springs even with proper cam break-in the cam can go flat pretty fast. Have you done a full 1-8 compression test? If it is a roller you should be fine as long as push rods are the correct length and the rockers are properly adjusted. Just trying to think of things other than distributor and coil that may prevent it from starting.
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I once had this problem with a 440 i built in my younger days. I was sure my cam timing was right, ....... but it wasn't. It would hit until the lifters pumped up.
Did you degree the cam? Advance it? Some timing sets are wrong straight off the shelf.
Just re read post # 11 where you said it has run reliably in its current build so this wont apply. Maybe the first motor though.
Last edited by 50vert (1/02/2015 10:12 PM)
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Side note, that's why you alwasy degree a cam. There can be errors with the timing set keyways, or the cam may not be ground as advertised. When you degree it you know where the intake centerline is for sure. Then you can advance or retard the cam timing if that's something you want to get into.
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So I put the new coil in (MSD blaster 2, high vibration). While doing it, to give it the best chance as possible at start-up, I put new leads on the wires connecting it to the MSD 6A, to be sure. Also checked verified TDC with a piston stop and checked valve timing. All checke dout, so no question marks there anymore. Distrbutor in at 0 BTDC to start out with, freshly charged battery, 2 cans of starting fluid on standby....
and it hit and caught on the frist try with no coaxing needed whatsoever!!!!!
So What I figure it was was weak ignition components, several of which were faulty which clouded the issue. The old distribuotr out and the new MSD 8479 in made a noticable impovment, in how close it got to catching and in how it idles now. Then the lynch pin of the coil made it a closed and done deal.
What really through the whole effort for a spin, for me at least, was that they were weak, not outright bad. So I got spark in many of the tests and diagnostics. But under the stress and load of firing at full ciompression, it just coudln't do it.
So it seems that yes, exeperimentally we have shown compression (not even that much, just 11.5:1) can cause a no-spark condition if there are weak components.
Thank you all very much for the assitance in diagnosing, and in a way keeping me motivated to actually do it and see it thorugh and not give it up.
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Great to hear!
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Awesome, and thanks for following up with the outcome. Often on the net these threads end with no resolution greatly diminishing the effectiveness of a forum, or even a Google search should someone else be experiencing the same problem.
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I sure that had to be a good feeling when you heard it fire. Glad to hear it's running.
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Thanks for the feedback on the resolution of your problem.
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Glad you got it going.
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