I went with the Open Tracker uppers because they take the time to set the arms up properly and for the base price you can also get the pivots offset by 1/8" for a caster gain (I think this has to be requested when ordering).  You can do these mods on stock Moog uppers but the cost difference was minor and it was one less task for me. I rebuilt my own lowers using the bearing kit from OT and converted to threaded ball joints from various parts houses. The threaded/replaceable ball joints were not necessary but I was already into it.  I would probably opt for the stock Moog lowers and take the savings and potentially apply that to adjustable strut rods to gain a little more adjustment but these can also be added later.  What year is your car?  For 67 and later I don't think the adjustable strut rods are as necessary.  The roller perches appear to work from what I read.  I bought a set from OT.  The last set of stock replacements I installed became rock hard after only a few years and ended up tearing the mounting pads on my UCA's so I didn't want to go down that path again.  My car will probably not see any driving conditions that matches the components that I am installing but I hope to do this only once.

I can't comment on springs but to throw another variable into the mix you may want to look at relocating the spring perches out 1/2" to 3/4" which allows you to run a lighter spring.  Since you are assembling all new, this would be easy to do.  I think OT can help you with this as to necessity and/or benefits.

I plan on ordering my shocks from OT when the time comes primarily because I have heard positive feedback on the valving and performance for street driving so that you can preserve your teeth on rough surfaces.

A lot of suspension improvements are lost if the shock towers are not controlled so ensure that you have appropriate braces added.

My car is a 65 convertible A code Gpatrick, I often make the mistake and assume folks on here have seen my posts,and are therefore allready familiar with my car. I have looked at the adjustable strut rods and have also seem them highly recommended to other folks doing similar upgrades, so I will definetly consider them, along with roller idler arms.

As far as what I will be using the car for, I anticipate a lot of street time, mostly cruising, maybe some longer trips potentially. I have thought about doing some track time but I dont really have a strong desire at this time, but that may change once I get behind the wheel and want to see what the car can do? Such is life.... 

I imagine rebuilding my UCA is an option, and I see OT offers a DIY roller kit, but for the itme and price, I will have to keep thinking about that one. I am strongly considering Bilstein shocks, have off roaded a truck I had with them and they never let me down. 

When you mention "Bind" is that just in referance to the part maxing out on articulation or travel? Not exactly sure what the bind your refering to means, is it nescessarilly a bad thing if it is by design?

 I also plan on uprgrading my front brakes while I am in there, converting to disc as I have allready purchased the take-off 2014 Mustang GT 13.2 Rotors/Calipers  for Rousch racing, and have to still order some components form Mustang Steve ( PV, brackets, Master Cylinder). I had only mentioned the front suspension as I am trying to tackle one thing at a time, will eventually do the rear suspension (leaf springs, shocks, and possibly disc breaks but not 100% on the disc yet) the car had sat for over 10 years prior to me owning, and I have never driven it. I just think everything needs to be addressed one way or another. 
 
 I would like to add dual exhaust  eventually, through the rear valance would be desired so thanks for the input on the GT shackles, I know there is very little room back there to work with.

When I replaced my upper arms a couple years ago I went with Moog stuff. I like the roller perches because of the way it lets the front lift when I hammer it. Its a smooth rise and return. I have the old 50 year old front springs with a full coil removed. Nice soft ride and the stock front shocks keep it from "motor-boating" up and down. Biggest improvement was the monte carlo bar and the one piece  export bar. Really made a difference in how it corners and handles. On ramps and off ramps FEAR ME when I use them!!
When doing the Shelby drop..it lowered my front a good inch or so. I did NOT have an inch to spare with my cut coil springs and long tube headers. I installed a pair of 1" poly spring blocks(looks like a thick doughnut) and that brought the front back up so MOST speed bumps are no problem.
The combination of all the above + the Shelby drop makes my 66 a lot of fun to drive/cruise. I wouldn't change a thang!
6sal6
PS........I thought my original manual steering box was needing replaced. I removed the  bolt/plug in the top of the box and added some grease.....almost an entire tube!! Made a HUGE difference in the steering.(Thanx Bob C) Still have the original box. Think about how hot that grease in the box gets...so close to the headers. Its no wonder it just needed grease!

I echo TimC's comments about deciding what you want to use the car for.  It gets tempting to dial in a track ready suspension, but you will unlikely enjoy the firm ride over time on the street.  We're planning on a driver that handles more like a modern car.

My project is essentially a nut and bolt restomod of my 1967 Coupe.  I went with a Grab A Trak setup all the way around and switched from drum to disk brakes on all four corners.  Up front, I have Scott Drake upper arms and new lower arms, roller perches, 620 coils Grab a Trak shocks and a 1" anti-roll bar.  I'm going with adjustable strut rods based on everything I've read.  Out back, I've got Grab a Trak 4.5 mid eye springs and KYB shocks.

I don't know about ride height yet, because I have to get the drive train, glass and interior back in the car. I'd imagine some coil cutting up front, and maybe 1" lowering blocks in the rear will be fine tuning elements.

Separate from suspension, I'm adding a Unisteer rack and pinion setup.

Good luck!!

Check out the tech tips on adjustable strut rods Jdorski built his own so did I you don't need a machine shop to do it the parts and time around a hundred bucks, go with the moog stuff if your not racing, Check Daze's site for roller spring perch diy kits, opentracker makes a sweet roller pitman arm buy it, reduces steering effort like wow on manual steering won't hurt on power either, listen to the 65/66 guys for spring suggestions, Shelby drop see Daze, a one inch sway bar and your cruzin'.Stay away from polyurethane less you like a stiff ride stock rubber worked well for ford.

I think he meant to say "roller idler arm"  not pitman.......

I didn't know any better and ordered the Dynacorn upper/lower control arms, but got the heavy duty ones, and haven't seen much discussion about them.  The uppers have a suspension bushing in them and the lowers were reinforced underneath.  I see they have the lower reinforcements separate:

1965 Ford Mustang Control Arms

I spoke to a local shop who told me that the roller bearing perches aren't lasting, and recommended the newer Scott Drake high performance perches, I have some on back-order..

The upper Dynacorn heavy duty have a suspension bushing.


There is just a cap on the end, nowhere for a grease fitting.


This is the Monday morning version of the lower control arm with a missing spot weld, good place to do some welding practice, also the Drakes I saw had a u shape on the bottom lip which should be stronger than just an L, but the Dynacorn material seems pretty hefty:

The strut rods are adjustable to a point.  The issue is that you usually can't get enough positive caster in the front end with the factory hardware.

A roller idler bearing will basically eliminate return to center.  The torsion of the rubber bushing in the idler is all the really makes it spring back.  I would not recomend this for a street car. 

Poly bushings are not overly harsh depending on the durometer.  Usually good ones have some complaince.  Rubber is cushy, but dry rots, wears out, and fails under hard performance use.  It was good enough for Ford in a stock car, and largely because it was cheap.  Keep in mind that a lot of vehicle design is cost based compromise.  Just because Ford did something doesn't make it the best, often it just makes it the cheapest. 

6sally6 wrote:

bulletbirdman wrote:

Check out the tech tips on adjustable strut rods Jdorski built his own so did I you don't need a machine shop to do it the parts and time around a hundred bucks, go with the moog stuff if your not racing, Check Daze's site for roller spring perch diy kits, opentracker makes a sweet roller pitman arm buy it, reduces steering effort like wow on manual steering won't hurt on power either, listen to the 65/66 guys for spring suggestions, Shelby drop see Daze, a one inch sway bar and your cruzin'.Stay away from polyurethane less you like a stiff ride stock rubber worked well for ford.

Roller pitman make THAT big of difference,huh?!
6s6
 

Yep forgive me I'm still hungover its roller idler arm.

I'd be curious to hear opinions on the Bilsteins from people who run them.  Past expereince has led me to shy away due to an overly harsh ride caused by overriding the springs.  The KYBs were the gold standard years ago, and after 20 years they still wrok great in my setup. 

Opentracker wrote:

We have never had a return on a roller spring perch in the 11 years we've been selling them. I know one set that has over 90,000 miles on them.

The bearings can be replaced in just a few minutes if there was an issue. 

When the guy said he had bearings go out after 4 years, I questioned him because I had not read of any issues.  He had multiple cars in stages of resto and the work looked quality, but he must have had some cheap knock-off perches.

Consider it hearsay.

TKOPerformance wrote:

Adding a significant amount of positive caster would definitely improve return to center.  I hadn't considered that.  Only possible by moving stuff around from the factory positions though. 

yes but unfortunately this is a band aid to compensate for this issue and contrary to some peoples belief, a lot of caster is not always the best thing . .