| ||
Visit MustangSteve's web site to view some of my work and find details for: FYIFORD Contributors' PICTURES - Power Brake Retrofit Kits for 65-66 Stangs - Classic Mustang FAQ's by MustangSteve - How to wire in a Duraspark Ignition - Mustang Ride Height Pictures and Descriptions - Steel Bushings to fit Granada Spindles to Mustang Tie Rods - Visit my EBAY store MustangSteve Performance - How to Install Granada Disc Brakes MustangSteve's Disc Brake Swap Page - FYIFORD Acronyms for guide to all the acronyms used on this page - FYIFORD Important information and upcoming events |
Offline
I took the u bolts out of the rear to install 2 degree shims and noticed that the pins on the top of my lowering blocks were not tall enough to index into the spring perches. About that time the center pin subject came up on another board members post. I drilled the blockes and used my old pins to center the axle. Ran it down the interstate at 80 and no shake!
Offline
Awesome. Fixing a shake is one of the most satisfactory things you can do with an old car. It transforms the way that it drives and how much you want to drive it. Congratulations.....finding and fixing a shake can be a major pain.
Offline
Billy C, did you add shims and repair center bolt problem at same time? Cant understand how centering bolts could help "High speed shake" problem. Under normal conditions tight Ubolts would keep axle stable. Now, not saying you dont need spring centerbolts in their holes. Just curious how that made a huge difference.
Howard
Last edited by hmartin025 (1/25/2015 8:37 PM)
Offline
hmartin025 wrote:
Billy C, did you add shims and repair center bolt problem at same time? Cant understand how centering bolts could help "High speed shake" problem. Under normal conditions tight Ubolts would keep axle stable. Now, not saying you dont need spring centerbolts in their holes. Just curious how that made a huge difference.
Howard
I did do both at the same time so I don't know for sure which one was causing the problem or if it was a combination of both. I would think that if for what ever reason the axle shifted it could cause some kind of misalignment with the drive line. Not speaking from experience here just and educated guess. Anyway the shake is gone and some of the undesirable handling quirks are gone.
Offline
whas it a flat shim/spacer?
was it angled to move the icat pinion up or down?
how much did it move it?
what trans do you have?
is the rear end stock?
there is no reason to shim a stock set up.
.
Offline
There's not much stock on this buggy. 66 coupe 289 t5 trans, dropped ucas, 1"lowered rear. Pinion angle was off by about 2.5 degrees. I shimed it 2degrees and that took care of it.
Offline
BillyC wrote:
There's not much stock on this buggy. 66 coupe 289 t5 trans, dropped ucas, 1"lowered rear. Pinion angle was off by about 2.5 degrees. I shimed it 2degrees and that took care of it.
you put a spacer in it ir you put a wedge to change the pinion angle?
did you move the nose of the pinion up or down?
thanks
Offline
Vibration can be a booger to troubleshoot and repair. I suspect the tapered shim helped mostly.
Great thing is the vib is gone!!! Hopefully never to return.....
Howard
Offline
barnett468 wrote:
BillyC wrote:
There's not much stock on this buggy. 66 coupe 289 t5 trans, dropped ucas, 1"lowered rear. Pinion angle was off by about 2.5 degrees. I shimed it 2degrees and that took care of it.
you put a spacer in it ir you put a wedge to change the pinion angle?
did you move the nose of the pinion up or down?
thanks
Put a wedge type shim in it raising the nose up 2degrees.
REMEMBER!!! When posting a question about your Mustang or other Ford on this forum, BE SURE to tell us what it is, what year, engine, etc so we have enough information to go on. |