Don't know about Versaillis or Granada brakes so I'm pretty useless, but I just want to be the first to welcome you to the best place on the web.  You'll be glad you came.

As for the prop valve, a combination valve, which is a proprotioning valve/differential pressure valve in one, also serves as the distribution block.  The diff pressure part simply closes a switch to ground to turn on a "Brake Trouble" light if you loose system integrity to the front or rear system.  You don't need to wire in the light but it's handy.

The combi valve will plumb in just off the the MC.  Front MC port goes to rear (back brakes) section of the combi.  Rear MC port (front brakes) goes to one of the front ports on the combi and the remaining two front ports on the combi go to the front brakes.

I'm sure MS can recommend the proper part as I got mine from him for disc-disc setup.

Again, welcome.

BB

Last edited by Bullet Bob (2/03/2015 8:04 AM)

Ditto 74 yamaha's comments.

You WILL want power brakes once you start driving it.  Save double work and do it up front to avoid having to replumb the system when you finally do add it.

A 1" bore MC works well with those brakes.  I have two different ones.  Iron one looks like the 67-70 Mustang MC.  Aluminum/plastic tank is 4 wheel disc specific and is very lightweight.

The 70 Mustang proportioning valve is built into the junction block.

Your Versailles hoses are SAE inverted thread for 3/16" tube, but they have the 7/16" threads, just to be different.  FedHill.com has the tube nuts you need to install the tubing to the hoses.

Versailles spindles will have bumpsteer issues because the ackerman angle is different than the 65/66.  I now have spindles with correct geometry for the 65/66 cars, but with the brake bolt pattern to use the Granada/Versailles brakes.  Just curious... what did you use to fit the larger Versailles lower ball joint and the tie rod ends?

If you need some parts, skip ebay as I will make you a better deal if you just email me direct.  Steve@mustangsteve.com
 

Pix, pix, pix...everybody loves pix.  I don't think Steve sells huge add-on fender flares, bright yellow plug wires, or red calipers.  Though, he may be starting a new line.

BB
 

Steering I dunno what the rest of yall think but I may suggest a Saginaw or its smaller brother that is a vega which shares mustang size sector shaft it also has a power version as well I'm just not sure how much it changes if any in size. Sense those vega boxes fit in a 32 ford frame with a 302 or similar size motor I'm sure they'll fit mustangs.  Saginaws they have a 1.25" sector the best one that I've hurd of is a Dodge Durango 2000? Box they have a bigger piston a lot of rock crawler guys like them. Use that have a power hose made hook up the return line. Use a early gm style pitman arm which I'm pretty sure the taper will fit a manual mustangs centerlink tapered stud.  Besides that and mounts you are golden with an amazing box that has been used for a long time on many cars SUVs etc for numerous amounts of years. I think if your Torino ranchero had the none ford box as some did they had an older style sag box.

orchardinc wrote:

Thanks for the quick response gentlemen.  Steve, as far as the lower ball joints, we used the 65 mustang lower control arm/ball joint.  It bolted right up without issue.  We were under the impression that this did not need to be changed out when making the granada swap. (we also did the shelby drop with the upper control arm) 

We havent hooked the tie rod ends( and the remainder of the steering) up yet.  I believe what we currently have are the granada tie rod ends. We were going to move to steering next (im buying a flaming river box/shaft etc.). Am I missing something here with the set up the way it is now?

Im going to discuss the information with the Dad after work today and will get back to you (Steve) with some info about getting some parts ordered.

Thanks again, the excitement level is increasing with every new change to the car.  We were just talking the other day that we thought it wouldnt have come this far.I have a bunch of pics of the progress so far, but I had uploaded them to another website forum (I bought a couple fiberglass parts from).  I dont want to put their name in here unless Im authorized to do so, if you guys were curious about the car and wanted to see sme pictures. Let me know and I can put a link in a reply.  I dont want to take business away from Steve(although I dont think they sell the same type of stuff), but it would take forever for me to upload the pics to these forums with the connection we have at home.

I had read Versailles fronts in my mind, which was incorrect.  You are correct on the Granada fitting the ball joint.

I have no problem with people posting links to other companies, etc as long as they are not directing someone to a product that competes directly with mine.  The link you posted cannot be accessed without a login to that site.  That would be a great post to put in the http://fyi.boardhost.com/viewforum.php?id=13 SHOW US YOUR BUILD HISTORY forum that is part of this site.  You can get there by clicking index and then the forum title.  You can upload pics directly from your computer (UPLOAD button) or you can use the URL of a pic from another website. (The icon that looks like a mountain with the yellow sky and sun behind it).

I have used the same brakes as yours before in a manual brake 66 with 1-1/16" bore mc.  I was younger and had more leg power.  It worked OK, but they work ALOT BETTER with the 1".  You have to be careful to have enough volume to fully apply the brakes.  If you can feel the brake pedal bottom out hard like it is against a stop, you will have trouble.  That is usually the MC piston hitting the end of the bore.  You never want that to be a possibility.
 

orchardinc wrote:

We were going to move to steering next (im buying a flaming river box/shaft etc.).

I would stay away from the Flaming River box.  I bought one in 2004 and it's horribly loose and sloppy after less than 11000 miles.  You can find remanufactured OE replacements on the market and there are at least two places that can rebuild yours.

The rebuilder that has the best reputation (highly recommended by the VMF community) is Chock.  He has a website - http://www.chockostangclassicmustang.com/

There's another person in Texas (Stanger) that also rebuilds them and I'm told he does a good job but takes a very long time and does not communicate much.

Great to hear you got the brakes juiced up without much issue.  I usually only hear back from the ones having problems with their own installation issues.

I had a similar problem with my 66 with discs front and rear. Mine was caused by the booster output shaft not being adjusted properly so my brakes were partially on all the time and couldn't bleed the pressure of totally. I'm assuming you stuck with your plan and have manual brakes so the booster isn't the problem. Duh.That said I'm thinking either something to do with the pedal to mc rod or the proportioning valve.  Check your plumbing to make sure the prop valve is plumbed correctly.

We do have the parking brakes hooked up in the rear of the car.  I understand that the application of the parking brake adjusts the calipers out to the pads, as the car is driven.  Last night I took the MC pushrod out and compared it to a couple that we had in the garage.  Our suspicion was that we somehow mixed up one of the push rods when we installed everything initially.  I put a shorter push rod in, which resulted in a bit more slop in the pedal but then took the car up and down the driveway a dozen or so times and could not replicate the issue that occurred the day prior.  I don't know, maybe the pushrod we had in was a tad too long, I really had to force it in, and it was depressing the plunger in the mc enough to tighten the already closely adjusted rear brakes.  We'll see how it goes.

 

I don't know guys, this issue with the brakes now has me paranoid.  I'm second guessing the push rod length being the culprit.  Am I using the correct MC for my disc/disc application?  Over the last couple days I read somewhere that the disc/drum MC's have some type of internal valve that bleeds pressure from the rears more slowly.   Is this a function of the PB6.1 iron master cylinder that I have installed? This, in combination of the description I see in MS's web store has got me concerned.  I just want to make sure I have the correct components before I move on to something else here with the car.

You may have to make the pushrod for the master cylinder adjustable. I put 72 discs on my 66. I forget exactly what master I put in other then it has a 1” piston and no residual check valve. I never put one in.

MS is right about Ackerman being different. You will probably end up with a bump steer condition where the front end will want to stay up in the air. It’s not the end of the world. The tie rod arms on the 67 & later Mustang, Granada and Versailles are all the same. The arm is about 7/16” shorter, angled in more by about 3/8” and have 1/2” less horizontal offset. Adding caster is your best friend here. You need about 5* positive caster to roughly cancel out that 1/2”. Instead of buying new tie rod ends put that money to a Baer bumpsteer kit and put all the spacers in.

With the rear steer the tires toe in as the suspension extends and toe out on compression. Once you start doing suspension mods such as the Arning drop which as a by product lowers the car about 5/8” and maybe some different spring which make the car even lower then set toe, now the suspension is going to be more biased for toe in which will make the car want to stick up in the air. Right now my 66 is driving really well. No noticeable bumpsteer at all. Doesn’t mean I don’t have any just with my set up is driving fine. Just changing to a different tire size could make it come back.

I’ve thought about running a little toe out if I couldn’t get it right. Later on I read on MS tech tips here Steve suggests running a little toe out on these set ups. That made me feel better that I was on the right track. I will also highly recommend doing your own or learning to do your own alignments. It comes in very handy tweaking your settings to your liking