Walk away from it!!  go inside the house and get away from the frustration!  Call me or Call JKB hes driving across country!!  Do anything to get away from it,then go back and figure it out!!

Bob, it could be that the pump drive shaft is pulled up just enough to become "unseated"(square drive is out of phase with the socket) Try using a 1/4 socket ro turn the drive shaft enough to re-phase it and it will fall back into position??
Stabbing & unstabbing the dizzy mine did something simular, butt I've been to sleep since then and can't remember exactly what.
Ohhh.....it's fun to have to pull the oil pan off at this point, just to make sure the Oil pump DS is seated correctly.

Tubo

Home made primer/oil pump driver used to jog the pump shaft for dizzy location. 5/16” long socket head cap screw for the driver and some odds and sods for the rest.     

wsinsle wrote:

terry wrote:

Walk away from it!!  go inside the house and get away from the frustration!  Call me or Call JKB hes driving across country!!  Do anything to get away from it,then go back and figure it out!!

 
Best advice.

Don't know how many times I walked away from something and came back later, then it seems to almost fix itself.

Don't know if this is the right way to do it but I would set the dizzy in and spin the engine with the fan belt.

X-2^^ Or turn it a little with a long pull handle on the balancer nut...while fiddleing with the dizzy.
 

If your car is on the ground and is a stick shift, I usually put it in 4th and bump the car with my knees to roll over the engine slightly while manipulating the dizzy to get it in. Works every time. Remember to release the park brake. 

MustangSteve wrote:

I have used the BUMP the starter method as well, but when someone who does not do this every day tries it, they invariably wind up having to start over and get the #1 piston at TDC on firing stroke after it fails to engage.  To avoid that possibility, it is much easier to just turn the driveshaft with a socket or  purpose-made tool and then the distributor will drop right in.

Thank you one and all for the very knowledgable tips.  And all who said to bump the crank in one way or another are absolutely correct.......if I hadn't made one very important screw-up. 

As I stated in my original post, the top of the oil pump shaft is in the dizzy guide hole and about 1/4" below the dizzy gear running surface.  The dizzy will start onto the pump shaft but will only go about 5/8" befor stopping...no matter what I do.

So today I finally got some high intensity light down in the hole and I can just see past the dizzy guide boss to the oil pump drive.  And guess what?  I can see the oil pump drive hole so there ain't no shaft in it.  I obviously lifted the shaft when pulling the dizzy and that mean I obviously didn't position the "anti-lift-the-pump-shaft-out-of-the-pump-when-pulling-the-dizzy-stop-collar" when I put the engine together. 

So, I will try to make a tool to lift and reposition the shaft into the pump drive but even if that works I'm thinking "pull the pan" so I will not have to worry about it next time".

Thanks all for the help.  What was happining is that the dizzy started  over the pump shaft but due to the fact that the pump shaft isn't square with the guide hole, the dizzy just wedged on the crooked shaft part way into the hole.

Just goin' along and learning the hard way...but I bet I don't do this again.

BB

barnett468 wrote:

.
been there done that.

you can get a telescoping pencil thin magnet from most autp parts stores to lift it out with.

you can get a psair of 3 sided grippers [not 4 sided] to grip it with for installation.

if it drops, i may po into the pan.

you can sand the end of the points on the rod that goes into the distributor a little then lake sure it falls out of the distributor easily so if you have to remove it again, it will not fall out.

you can also tape a thinwall mnedium length socket or longer to an extension then put a neo magnet on the end of the extension and put the oil pump drive in the socket and see if the maknet holds it well enough . . if it does, install it with that then simply remove the magnet before removing the extension.

the cam gear must be the correct material for the cam you are running or it will junk your cam.

trick flow cams are steel.

Thanks Barnett.  I was gonna try to re-seat it in the OP before pulling the pan but may pull it anyway to adjust the "stopper".  Then again, I think I will try to re-seat the OP drive shaft and then see if there is some way to raise the "stopper" closer to the bottom of the dizzy guide boss without pulling the pan...I think custom tool time is here.  I appreciate the help and tips to get it back in place. 

The gear is steel and has 16K on a stock roller cam.

BB
 

Bullet Bob wrote:

barnett468 wrote:

.


you can also tape a thinwall mnedium length socket or longer to an extension then put a neo magnet on the end of the extension and put the oil pump drive in the socket and see if the maknet holds it well enough . . if it does, install it with that then simply remove the magnet before removing the extension.

Had to Google Neo mangnet.  Thats a great tip and procedure...thanks much.

BB

no prob, yeah those things are pretty handy and pretty cheap these days.
 

Okay....dizzy is back in and it runs again.  Still has that weird woo-woo noise but at least I'm back to square one.   Barnett made a couple of suggestions for grabbing the OP drive and getting it back into the proper hole.  I tried his maggot...ah, magnet idea but even with ten 1/2 X 1/4 neo magnets stacked on the end of my 1/4" X 6" extension it wouldn't lift the shaft.  So I ordered a three wire claw type "grabber".  So they sent a four wire one.  Oh well, it did the job.

So thanks to all who offered suggestions.  The OP shaft had lifted with the dizzy and fell back down along side the OP drive thingie.  That put the OP shaft at an angle and when I tried to seat the dizzy it would bind and not seat....thank goodness, this could have been dis--oh no I used a word I shouldn't have--ter-us.

Now, if anyone has any idea what this sttrange higher pitched woooooooo noise is I'd love to hear it.  Coming from the right valve cover.  Sounds like a wet finger making laps around the edge of the cover...like on a drinking glass.  The AFR heads are new and have pushrod guide plates.  The new rockers are Scorpion rollers.  The timing set has 16K on it like all the bottom end and it never made this noise before.  Cam is a Comp 266 so there is a lot more lift than before but I can't think why that would make this niose.   I pulled the valve covers and can see no indication of any rocker contact.  I've been thinking maybe pushrod to guide plate noise or maybe a vacuum leak on one or more of the right side ports.  Next 'speriment will be to run it with the valve cover off and an old cheepie chrome one with it's top cut on there.  If that don't tell me anything...well, I hope it makes it to Texas.

Dunno....do you?

Thanks,

BB

.
you can take a cell phone video of the spound and post it on you tube.

you can plug all the vacuum lines and see if thats it.

you can leave them plugged then spray flammable contact cleaner with the long narrow nozzle gently at the carb base and intake where it meets the head.

Yup, testing for a manny vac leak is on the agenda.  I will try to shoot a vid with sound but I'm not sure it will pick up the sound.  Various guys have heard it but I seem to hear it more than most...and I can't hear myself, well, you know...thought for I while I had quit doing that but Jean assures me I haven't.  Anyway, I'll try tomorrow. 

Also...It only does it when it warms up a bit...that any help?

BB

Bob, is your cam the Comp XE266?   I understand the Xtreme Energy camshafts tend to be a bit noisy because of the "extreme" ramp rates.