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2/23/2015 1:11 PM  #1


Rear end

As I transition to the rear suspension/brakes, I have been going back and forth about what to do with my rear brakes, and had considered just rebuilding the rear drums as a lot of folks say discs on the rear not a "nescessity". Over the weekend I found this kit:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/371197940733?item=371197940733&viewitem=&vxp=mtr 
 I dont think I could rebuild the drum brakes for the price of the conversion so I am going with disc.

It is a very good deal so I ordered it and it is currently in route. My question is about my rear end, I am pretty sure I have an 8in rear but bot not certain. MS makes two differant brackets for adapting these brakes based on size of the bearing. can anyone tell me if this rear end is anything other than a 8 or 9in rear end by these pictures:

This is a picture I took after cleaning it up a when I had it removed and on my rotisseire. I had the number off it somewhere but not sure what I did with them.

Additionally, is there much I need to do to it before I reinstall it as far as rebuilding it? I know the  date says it was a 1, which I guess that mean 3:00 gear ratio? ASSuming this original to the car, and over the last 50 years who know what has been done?


All men die, but not all men truly ever live.
 

2/23/2015 1:32 PM  #2


Re: Rear end

Your picture didn't come through in the post. More info on the car would be helpful too - year, original V8 or 6-cylinder, etc. Here's a picture of a small bearing 8" rear end in a '66 (has the same brakes you just bought being fitted with the MS brackets). Notice how the axle tubes narrow down from 3" to 2 3/8" diameter just next to where the jackstand is.


(Pinto!)
 

2/23/2015 2:02 PM  #3


Re: Rear end

If I remember right, all you have to look at is the bottom mounting bolt. If you have to take it off with a wrench, it's a 9 inch and you can get a socket on a 8". Hopefully I didnt get that backwards.

 

2/23/2015 2:25 PM  #4


Re: Rear end

All Mustang original 8" AND 9" rears were small bearing.


Money you enjoy wasting is NOT wasted money... unless your wife finds out.
 

2/23/2015 3:03 PM  #5


Re: Rear end

Huh, well sometimes when I cut and paste the pictures dont attach:

I can see now what McStang was talking about, the axle tubes narrow, is does this mean a 8in. rear then?


All men die, but not all men truly ever live.
     Thread Starter
 

2/23/2015 3:10 PM  #6


Re: Rear end

As McStang indicated, your pic did not post.  If I remember, you have a factory V8 65.  If so, it is probably an 8" rear.  Looking at it from the rear (pun intended) the center housing will be oval with large dimples at 3 & 9 o'clock.  The 65/66 mustang 8" rears were tapered, and had a smaller diameter where the ubolts clamp the spring & shock plate.  After 50 years, at a minimum, I would replace the pinion seal and axle bearings.

Oops, there's the pic.  Yup, 8".
 

Last edited by TimC (2/23/2015 3:11 PM)

 

2/23/2015 4:07 PM  #7


Re: Rear end

MustangSteve wrote:

All Mustang original 8" AND 9" rears were small bearing.

Huh, whaddya know . . . learn something new every day.


(Pinto!)
 

2/26/2015 10:59 PM  #8


Re: Rear end

That's an 8 inch rear end.


65 convert "298" (.060), 4sp, disc, quick steer, roller perches, adj strut rods, sph bearing lower, F&R anti-roll bars.
 

2/27/2015 8:57 AM  #9


Re: Rear end

Greg B wrote:

Shelby took  1963 Ford Galaxie 9" rears and axle tubes from 6 cylinder Salisbury rears and used them to make the 9" Shelby rear.  

I thought he just started w/ specially ordered factory Ford Mustangs, which came w/ 9" differentials just like the hi-po Mustangs.


Cheap, Fast, Good:  Pick Any Two
 

2/27/2015 9:21 AM  #10


Re: Rear end

jkordzi wrote:

Greg B wrote:

Shelby took  1963 Ford Galaxie 9" rears and axle tubes from 6 cylinder Salisbury rears and used them to make the 9" Shelby rear.  

I thought he just started w/ specially ordered factory Ford Mustangs, which came w/ 9" differentials just like the hi-po Mustangs.

 Greg B. is Correct....Beginning as a stock Mustang with a 4-speed manual, the cars were shipped to Shelby American, where they received the high-riser manifolds, had their stock Ford Falcon live rear axles replaced with heavy-duty Ford Galaxie rear axles, and were given larger, metallic-lined rear drum brakes and Kelsey-Hayes front disc brakes.


"The OLDER I Get....The FASTER I Was..."
 

2/27/2015 9:28 AM  #11


Re: Rear end

The only other thing you may want to do is choose if you want a different gear ratio.  Now would be the best time to decide on what you wanna do.

 

2/27/2015 9:35 AM  #12


Re: Rear end

True74yamaha wrote:

The only other thing you may want to do is choose if you want a different gear ratio. Now would be the best time to decide on what you wanna do.

Copy that, as of now (according to the date code) gears are 3:0? Seems like they would be good for a cruiser but would I be missing out on some low end? What would be the most ideal gear ratio if I say am putting a semi-stock 5.0  with a T-5?
 


All men die, but not all men truly ever live.
     Thread Starter
 

2/27/2015 12:41 PM  #13


Re: Rear end

Im not good at knowing gears I understand them
But don't know the best.  I do know that a lot of people with 302 t5s tend to put in 3.73 gears.

 

2/27/2015 1:12 PM  #14


Re: Rear end

Tire height makes a difference too.  In general, a production Ford T5 with a reasonably tall tire will like a 3.73 gear.  If its a Z-spec T5 then 4.11 may be more the order due to the lower first gear ratio.  The idea is not to get a first gear that takes you from 0-20.  The best way to figure it is to multiply the first gear ratio by the rear gear ratio.  An ideal ratio is in the 9:1-10:1 range.  Lower and it will struggle to get out of the hole.  Higher  and first will feel very short.

Now if you are running a short stock tire size you may be more comfortable with a 3.55.  Tire height changes the effective gear ratio; its just something else of which to be aware.

 

2/27/2015 2:04 PM  #15


Re: Rear end

Mach1_Ron wrote:

jkordzi wrote:

Greg B wrote:

Shelby took  1963 Ford Galaxie 9" rears and axle tubes from 6 cylinder Salisbury rears and used them to make the 9" Shelby rear.  

I thought he just started w/ specially ordered factory Ford Mustangs, which came w/ 9" differentials just like the hi-po Mustangs.

 Greg B. is Correct....Beginning as a stock Mustang with a 4-speed manual, the cars were shipped to Shelby American, where they received the high-riser manifolds, had their stock Ford Falcon live rear axles replaced with heavy-duty Ford Galaxie rear axles, and were given larger, metallic-lined rear drum brakes and Kelsey-Hayes front disc brakes.

No offense, but I think this is a good illustration of why educators hate Wikipedia, which is where I think you borrowed the above, which in turn borrowed it from any of the other dozen or so sites where it appears.  Just because something appears on a web site doesn't mean it's gospel.  Shelby America didn't adapt Galaxie rear ends to the Mustang. There was no need, as the Mustang 9" rear ends were stock Ford items that were delivered to Shelby America along with the car.  They were the same housings as the hi-po 9" rear ends, which of course was available on non-Shelby cars, with the exception of being modified by Shelby America for the over rider traction bars in 65.   Also, the KH front brakes were available on Mustangs from Ford.  As I remember, the larger rear drums on the Shelby came from the Galaxie, so the original author may have assumed the entire axle did as well.


Cheap, Fast, Good:  Pick Any Two
 

3/04/2015 6:30 PM  #16


Re: Rear end

TKOPerformance wrote:

Tire height makes a difference too.  In general, a production Ford T5 with a reasonably tall tire will like a 3.73 gear.  If its a Z-spec T5 then 4.11 may be more the order due to the lower first gear ratio.  The idea is not to get a first gear that takes you from 0-20.  The best way to figure it is to multiply the first gear ratio by the rear gear ratio.  An ideal ratio is in the 9:1-10:1 range.  Lower and it will struggle to get out of the hole.  Higher  and first will feel very short.

Now if you are running a short stock tire size you may be more comfortable with a 3.55.  Tire height changes the effective gear ratio; its just something else of which to be aware.

Ok, so back to this- I am thinking tire size will most lilkely be a 235 45 r17? I am also thinking a 3:55 rear gear as from doing some research and talking with Rose Hill Performance, he says 3:0 will be pretty "boggy" on the freeway? Anways, now to do some research to see best places to buy new gears and any other items needed for the swap?  Am I even capable of doing a gear swap- we shall see? I will be removing the rear end this weekend to do the rear brake swap as my parts have arrived, so now is the time....
 


All men die, but not all men truly ever live.
     Thread Starter
 

3/04/2015 6:58 PM  #17


Re: Rear end

I would probably go with the Ford Motorsports gears - $159 at Summit -  http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/fms-m-4209-88355/overview/ .  I think the 3.55 ratio is good for this application.  The install can be done at home - see the recent posts regarding gear patterns but I think you would be money and time ahead to take the rearend assembly to a competent driveline shop in your area and have them install new carrier and pinion bearings and seals and have them set up the gears and pinion preload.  They can turn it around quickly and unless you have the presses, indicators, gear mesh checking grease, experience, etc., you will spend more in the long run.  It is best to pick your battles and your question "am I capable of doing the swap" tells me that there are other battles to fight and this one belongs to a professional.  This is not something to learn on unless you have a chance to work side-by-side with someone who knows how to do it right.

 

3/04/2015 7:17 PM  #18


Re: Rear end

devovino wrote:

TKOPerformance wrote:

Tire height makes a difference too.  In general, a production Ford T5 with a reasonably tall tire will like a 3.73 gear.  If its a Z-spec T5 then 4.11 may be more the order due to the lower first gear ratio.  The idea is not to get a first gear that takes you from 0-20.  The best way to figure it is to multiply the first gear ratio by the rear gear ratio.  An ideal ratio is in the 9:1-10:1 range.  Lower and it will struggle to get out of the hole.  Higher  and first will feel very short.

Now if you are running a short stock tire size you may be more comfortable with a 3.55.  Tire height changes the effective gear ratio; its just something else of which to be aware.

Ok, so back to this- I am thinking tire size will most lilkely be a 235 45 r17? I am also thinking a 3:55 rear gear as from doing some research and talking with Rose Hill Performance, he says 3:0 will be pretty "boggy" on the freeway? Anways, now to do some research to see best places to buy new gears and any other items needed for the swap?  Am I even capable of doing a gear swap- we shall see? I will be removing the rear end this weekend to do the rear brake swap as my parts have arrived, so now is the time....
 

3.55 gears are the most common with all t5 trannies . . it is a good balance between good acceleration and low rpm at 70 mph with most tires . . your tires are 25.7" tall

if you are not a street racer and want more of a freeway gear than 3.40's are good.

there is a problem with some brands of gears making a whining noise . . for gears that do not make a whining noise, I would only use Motive or US Gear . . Ask the seller if the Motive or US Gear gears they sell are made in either the USA or Italy . . Motive makes some in both China and Italy . . I’m not sure about US Gear.

Do NOT use KOYO bearings . . use Timken.
 
Phone 1-847-663-1701
http://www.strangeengineering.net/website/contact-strange
 
Phone 714-528-6957
http://www.currieenterprises.com/
 

Last edited by barnett468 (3/04/2015 7:20 PM)

 

3/04/2015 7:19 PM  #19


Re: Rear end

The gear you choose should depend on how you're going to use the car.  I started with a 3.55 gear which is a  fun sport gear, but my near stock 5.0 & T5 just doesn't need the rpm. I changed to a 3.25 for those long bash trips on the interstate. For my car, it was the way to go... the 3.25 is lot more comfortable at 78mph, plus I gained 2 mpg consistently.   If you're gonna hot rod around town, the 3.55 may be a better choice.
 


jerry
 

3/07/2015 12:38 PM  #20


Re: Rear end

jerryF wrote:

The gear you choose should depend on how you're going to use the car.  I started with a 3.55 gear which is a  fun sport gear, but my near stock 5.0 & T5 just doesn't need the rpm. I changed to a 3.25 for those long bash trips on the interstate. For my car, it was the way to go... the 3.25 is lot more comfortable at 78mph, plus I gained 2 mpg consistently.   If you're gonna hot rod around town, the 3.55 may be a better choice.
 

Definetly something to think about, I guess I would like a little of both- but cant have your cake, however, the speed limit here in Oregon is 55- even on the interstate. Lame I know, but I often find myself doing well over that but something to think about.
  Now my question, I was uninstalling the axles from the Diff. the bearing came out with the Axle, and are stuck on pretty well.  I reinstall the new bearing into the diff shaft not on the axle correct?
  Also, I am going to take the third member apart, is there any way to tell definitively what the gear ratio is? I was thinking in the last 50 years, the gears very well could have all ready been switched out?

Also, I notice on the housing, the numbers read C2OW-E?  Cant find any information on those numbers?

Last edited by devovino (3/07/2015 1:12 PM)


All men die, but not all men truly ever live.
     Thread Starter
 

3/07/2015 7:09 PM  #21


Re: Rear end

The C20W-E is the casting number for a standard 8" diff the pinion support.

The axle bearings are "pressed" unto the axle so, what you have is normal. There's a retaining ring pressed on next to the bearing......

What bearing are you attempting to replace?
 

 

3/07/2015 8:07 PM  #22


Re: Rear end

A hydraulic press is needed to remove the bearings off the axles and to re install new ones. 

As far as determining the gear ratio , you divide the number of teeth on the ring gear (big gear) by the number of teeth on the pinion ( small gear). So it's as simple as just counting the teeth and dividing.

Last edited by MachTJ (3/07/2015 8:10 PM)

 

3/07/2015 9:51 PM  #23


Re: Rear end

devovino wrote:

jerryF wrote:

The gear you choose should depend on how you're going to use the car.  I started with a 3.55 gear which is a  fun sport gear, but my near stock 5.0 & T5 just doesn't need the rpm. I changed to a 3.25 for those long bash trips on the interstate. For my car, it was the way to go... the 3.25 is lot more comfortable at 78mph, plus I gained 2 mpg consistently.   If you're gonna hot rod around town, the 3.55 may be a better choice.
 

Definetly something to think about, I guess I would like a little of both- but cant have your cake, however, the speed limit here in Oregon is 55- even on the interstate. Lame I know, but I often find myself doing well over that but something to think about.
  Now my question, I was uninstalling the axles from the Diff. the bearing came out with the Axle, and are stuck on pretty well.  I reinstall the new bearing into the diff shaft not on the axle correct?
  Also, I am going to take the third member apart, is there any way to tell definitively what the gear ratio is? I was thinking in the last 50 years, the gears very well could have all ready been switched out?

Also, I notice on the housing, the numbers read C2OW-E?  Cant find any information on those numbers?

The bearings get installed onto the axle - not the housing.  You need access to a press to remove and replace the bearings and you only get one shot.  If you have to press them off, because you forgot the outer retainer, even w/ zero miles, you have to reaplace the bearing.  Also, the inner retaining ring is best removed by drilling a hole into its side, about 3/4 of the way to the axle.  Then position a cold chisel across the hole and give it a smack with a 3 lb sledge and the retainer will split and come right off.


Cheap, Fast, Good:  Pick Any Two
 

3/08/2015 12:41 PM  #24


Re: Rear end

josh-kebob wrote:

The C20W-E is the casting number for a standard 8" diff the pinion support.

The axle bearings are "pressed" unto the axle so, what you have is normal. There's a retaining ring pressed on next to the bearing......

What bearing are you attempting to replace?
 

I am installing rear discs with MS bracket (much like the picture above) and it states you need to replace the outer diff bearing seen in my last picture.

Jkordzi, thanks for the input. So it sound like the shop should press on the bearing/inner retaining at the same time? Making sure not to forget the outer retainer.

As for the rear end gears, i am going to  pull the housing and do some counting to verify the gear ratio is still 3.0, who know it might have been changed over the years, and the tag is missing which tell me it has been accessed?
 


All men die, but not all men truly ever live.
     Thread Starter
 

4/30/2015 9:37 AM  #25


Re: Rear end

GPatrick wrote:

I would probably go with the Ford Motorsports gears - $159 at Summit -  http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/fms-m-4209-88355/overview/ .  I think the 3.55 ratio is good for this application.  The install can be done at home - see the recent posts regarding gear patterns but I think you would be money and time ahead to take the rearend assembly to a competent driveline shop in your area and have them install new carrier and pinion bearings and seals and have them set up the gears and pinion preload.  They can turn it around quickly and unless you have the presses, indicators, gear mesh checking grease, experience, etc., you will spend more in the long run.  It is best to pick your battles and your question "am I capable of doing the swap" tells me that there are other battles to fight and this one belongs to a professional.  This is not something to learn on unless you have a chance to work side-by-side with someone who knows how to do it right.

 SO, I have been side tracked lately, but am back to geting things put back together and want to get these gears put in the rear end and found a shop who will install them. Should I also order bearing set from Summitt along with the gears? Also, would it be worth it to install a traction lock to make both wheels drive? I have it apart and if makes sense, I may install the  Track-Loc, but thats quite a bit more money added to the pot, of which I had not even expected to spend in the first place, but it makes sense with the the T-5!  Cheers to doing  it right the first time!
 


All men die, but not all men truly ever live.
     Thread Starter
 

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