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Hello guys, I have just purchased an aluminium Radiator and now looking to to buy an electric fan for this. I have measured the flat mounting surface, it is 23.5 inch width x 15.75 inch height.
I like the spec on the spal 30102049 electric fan but before committing, will this fit my radiator or is there a better option. My engine/trans combo is a blown windsor/t5
The information was taken from their website,
SPAL ADVANCED TECHNOLOGIES 30102049
16" Curved Blade High Performance Fan / 12V Puller
16.30"X3.47"X15.75"
2024 CFM
Our High Performance 16" fan line is the best of the best! This is our most popular primary fan for the street rod enthusiast. It is available in curved blade design for reduced noise and feature fully sealed waterproof/dustproof motors. Each fan is individually balanced for long life. 30 AMP FUSE,
Many thanks
Razi
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2000 Ford Contour V6 Fan, it is a factory part, dual fans, very low profile, moves a lot of air (around 2400 cfm) available at any parts store. I have one at home and can get the measurments, but its just a hair under 24"x16"x 4".
I have used them on two cars, works great.
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Ditto what Kar says. The contour fan is also 2 speed. I sourced an OEM item from the junkyard. It was quiet and reliable, once I sorted out a reliable setup to control it.
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I like the sound of this setup, hopefully it fits.
Is the Fan Assembly Dorman 620-104 sold on ebay same as OE
Last edited by RaziBilla (3/25/2015 9:59 AM)
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TimC wrote:
Ditto what Kar says. The contour fan is also 2 speed. I sourced an OEM item from the junkyard. It was quiet and reliable, once I sorted out a reliable setup to control it.
What's a good easy setup to control one?
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I have that same spal fan for about 10 years. It's loud but it does the job, never had an issue with overheating ever since.
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kdgt500 wrote:
TimC wrote:
Ditto what Kar says. The contour fan is also 2 speed. I sourced an OEM item from the junkyard. It was quiet and reliable, once I sorted out a reliable setup to control it.
What's a good easy setup to control one?
First off, I'm a fan of belt driven fans, but if an elec fan is required, Delta Current Control sells a real nice variable speed controller. I had the DCC bargain controller for Ford 2 speed fans, and it lasted one season. I searched the web for other options, looking for OEM parts for the control. I eventually ended up with a volvo fan controller, and tried various VW/Audi 2 speed temp switches, and got a perfectly functioning controller setup for under $50. Here's a link to the thread with the details. IMHO, temp switch location is important. The last post has all the part numbers.
Last edited by TimC (3/25/2015 12:41 PM)
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RaziBilla wrote:
I like the sound of this setup, hopefully it fits.
Is the Fan Assembly Dorman 620-104 sold on ebay same as OE
that is similar to a ford contour but i would never buy a fan unless they posted the amp draw because yui dsont know for sure what the cfm is . . it might be just fine but it might be wimpy.
a fan with a full shroud will be better than the spal . . the contour or ford taurus are your best bets imo.
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Be sure and control it with a relay and the correct size wire. I have a manual ove-ride switch on mine butt.....the sensor installed on the intake cuts it on and off just fine. I LIKE a 160* sensor....fan comes on at 160* goes off when it cools below that. They do have a lifespan where a belt drive fan doesn't(don't EVEN axe how I know this)
At highway speed (especially in below 95* weather.....fan doesNOT even come on.(non AC car,of course)
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+1 do not run the fans full time . . as mentioned, the DCC products controller is xlnt but kinda pricey, but cooling a car properly costs big bucks unfortunately.
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This is the fan setup that I have in my 70FB with the 427 stroker, I dont remember the dimensions of the radiator but the dual fans cool it extremely well, I also have the DCC fan controller and it works well, I have never heard the fans running at full speed to keep it cool with the A/C on, One thing I will say about the DCC controller is once you place the order don't expect it real soon, he builds them as a sideline to his day job, mine took maybe 7 months to get but with that said I am very happy with it and will likely order another one for the 70 I am restoring now.
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I am running the DCC controller as well and it works great with the two speed fan I am using which is off of my 95 Mustang GT. It happened to fit mine since I severly cut the radiator support to take a 29 inch Radiator. My rad is also 3 inches core thickness, two rows of 1.5 inch tubes. I have the top of my rad support two bolt removable and the rad and condensor quick release to accomodate quick engine changes. I use my car as my mobile dyno now since my local dyno connection is no longer.
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DC wrote:
I am running the DCC controller as well and it works great with the two speed fan I am using which is off of my 95 Mustang GT. It happened to fit mine since I severly cut the radiator support to take a 29 inch Radiator. My rad is also 3 inches core thickness, two rows of 1.5 inch tubes. I have the top of my rad support two bolt removable and the rad and condensor quick release to accomodate quick engine changes. I use my car as my mobile dyno now since my local dyno connection is no longer.
Not that I would want to put in a 29" radiator, but I am curious to see what that looks like. I even went through your old posts looking for any pictures! I was tempted to make my radiator support removeable when my lift was a few inches short of raising my engine high enough, but opted for a better lift..
I am liking this contour fan, looks like a perfect fit on my 24" radiator.
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I'm ruing a Ford Taurus 2 speed fan that has a built in shroud, it works great!
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Only pic I can find. I'll try to get one showing the fan.
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That's what I was thinking, right to the rails! And a wide berth to slip that engine out, and maybe with the hood on?
I now have to refer to my radiator install as the little 24", and the cutting required was .. minor.
Thanks for posting the pic.
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removing the top of the core support greatly reduces the strength of the engine compartment and unless it is reinforced, the rad mounts will break and the stability will be greatly reduced.
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Spent today looking for an oe fan and I think I have tracked one down not too far from me (110miles). Thanks for the advice guys.
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RaziBilla wrote:
Spent today looking for an oe fan and I think I have tracked one down not too far from me (110miles). Thanks for the advice guys.
you can buy them off the net for $130.00 and have it delivered.
you're going to spend around $30.00 in gas and over 4 hours of your time.
Last edited by barnett468 (3/28/2015 4:13 PM)
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The 2000 Contour fan I've hurd is awesome. Another option is the 94 Taurus 3.8l fan, it has very close dimensions for what your working with as well.
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I may be a little late in the game, as it sounds like you are already looking at options.
I have had several mustangs with electric fans and I have some advice backed with experience living with each.
If you have the space between the Rad and your waterpump pulley, Go with the Lincoln Mark VIII fan. You will have to trim down the plastic shroud so that it fits, but it is quiet and pulls a lot of air.
If you are tight for space, then go with the 2000 Contour V6 fan. That is the one I have now. It does not pull as much air, but there is virtually no triming required for your radiator and they are easy to find.
Instead of running it off of a fancy fan controller, get a temperature switch and a relay. I usually mount the temperature switch in the thermostat housing. It is super reliable and really cheap.
BobN
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barnett468 wrote:
.
removing the top of the core support greatly reduces the strength of the engine compartment and unless it is reinforced, the rad mounts will break and the stability will be greatly reduced.
There is now a sturdy bolt on top piece for the rad support with a bolt and dowel on each end. Also there is a cross brace in front of the distributor that ties into some 1.5 X .095 tubes under the fenders and aprons which go from the frame horns to the firewall. Since I routed all the wires and such through the tubing, there is very little to move to get an engine in or out. Hood stays on!
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DC wrote:
barnett468 wrote:
.
removing the top of the core support greatly reduces the strength of the engine compartment and unless it is reinforced, the rad mounts will break and the stability will be greatly reduced.There is now a sturdy bolt on top piece for the rad support with a bolt and dowel on each end. Also there is a cross brace in front of the distributor that ties into some 1.5 X .095 tubes under the fenders and aprons which go from the frame horns to the firewall. Since I routed all the wires and such through the tubing, there is very little to move to get an engine in or out. Hood stays on!
MAN!! I sure hope you can make it to the MSBBash this year.,DC
Luuuuuuv to take a look at your 'Stang!
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Lil' Hoss wrote:
This is the fan setup that I have in my 70FB with the 427 stroker, I dont remember the dimensions of the radiator but the dual fans cool it extremely well, I also have the DCC fan controller and it works well, I have never heard the fans running at full speed to keep it cool with the A/C on, One thing I will say about the DCC controller is once you place the order don't expect it real soon, he builds them as a sideline to his day job, mine took maybe 7 months to get but with that said I am very happy with it and will likely order another one for the 70 I am restoring now. Hey Duane, Did the shroud and fans come with your radiator or was it from a different company? Looks Nice!
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