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Hoping someone can give me a pointer or two.
Working on installing the MS Ball Bearing Clutch Rod Kit in my '67 Fairlane. Got the pedal support prepped and the bearing retainers tacked in place, but in mocking up the pieces (pedals, bearings, washers, etc.) before final welding of the retainers, it seems the vertical sides of my pedal support are not very parallel. Therefore the pedals are binding through their travel and there isn't enough length on the pedal rod to be able to get the cotter pin through the free end.
Has anyone run into this where they need to actually cut around where the bearing retainers weld on, except for maybe a small pivot at the appropriate point, and align the sides of the pedal support? If I were to just try to press the sides together at the bottom, open part of the support, there would not be enough space to fit the pedals in.
I know this is tough without pictures, but I'm away for work for a time--if someone has seen a similar issue I think they'll know what I mean instantly.
Thanks!
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not sure how the mustang steve system works so he can help you there but you do not want to squeeze the sides of the support in . . the sides do not need to be parallell . . if you have weld in bearing retainers, you just weld the retainers so they are square with each other.
as far as the shaft not protruding thru far enough, you can cut one or both of the bearing retainers down a little.
if the cotter pin hole is partially visible and there is enough room on the end of the shaft, you can elongate the hole with a dremel bit.
since you have bearing retainers already tacked into place, perhaps some time with a 3 inch cut off wheel might be required to remove the welds from the crookedest one so you can redo it.
Last edited by barnett468 (4/16/2015 8:43 PM)
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The fix, believe it or not, exists in the instructions that came with the kit. But, in the spirit those were probably discarded immediately upon opening the box, here is the proper way to fix it.
I do suggest you bend the pedal support so the sides are vertical so the bearing rings align perpendicular to the shaft. it does not have to be perfect but sure makes things alot easier. Those pedal supports get bent up when the potmetal bushings go out and also when being removed from the car. Use a vise to push the sides inward or a bit of percussion engineering to move the sides outward.
Go to the internet link provided on the instruction sheet. Follow it step by step and you will eliminate any issues.
Here is the link: It covers all your questions. Do them in order to avoid problems.
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barnett468 wrote:
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not sure how the mustang steve system works
Yep...you are right.
You can grind the edges a bit if the retailers are not perfect, but the intent is for the retaiers to hold the bearings square to the retainer. NEVER elongate a cotter pin hole to make something fit.
Last edited by MustangSteve (4/17/2015 9:00 AM)
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Wait, what?!?! The INSTRUCTIONS?!?!
Well I do apologize for not waiting until I get home and referencing them before posting, but I do very much appreciate the help. Now I have my head wrapped around it and can dive right in.
Appreciate the forum and the work that goes into it, too, so thanks.
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MustangSteve wrote:
barnett468 wrote:
.
not sure how the mustang steve system works
Yep...you are right.
You can grind the edges a bit if the retailers are not perfect, but the intent is for the retaiers to hold the bearings square to the retainer. NEVER elongate a cotter pin hole to make something fit.
barnett468 wrote:
as far as the shaft not protruding thru far enough, you can cut one or both of the bearing retainers down a little.
i did not mean grind them, i meant machine them.
actually, you can elongate a cotter pin hole all day long if need be . . there will be absoluteky 0 adverse affect, however, it is a band aid to compensate for other parts that are incorrect, but imo, it should only be done out of necessity as in a last resort.
Last edited by barnett468 (4/17/2015 2:42 PM)
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I can't help myself so I must quote this definition from the trusty FYIFORD Acronyms!
And, of course... ACTUALLY...means the writer believes you are in error, and you are about to be set straight!
Last edited by terry (4/17/2015 8:12 PM)
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terry wrote:
I can't help myself so I must quote this definition from the trusty FYIFORD Acronyms!
And, of course... ACTUALLY...means the writer believes you are in error, and you are about to be set straight!
Yeah, well... If you call slotting a hole for a cotter pin being set straight.
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It was NOT meant as a poke at you Steve!!
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my post was not intended to set anyone “straight” and was for this type of application only where the pin will be pressed against the outside edge of the hole . . under this condition the pin will never be loose in the hole . . the hole could be 2 inches long in the direction of the pedal and it will have no affect on the pin whatsoever . . I merely posted this as one option to the pin length problem since some of the other options are cutting the collar out [which he might need to do anyway to get them square] then getting it cut down on a mill or lathe . . another option is lengthening the pin or if the pin is long enough he can weld the cotter pin hole and re-drill it farther out.
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