By looking at your picture it looks like the combustion chamber to the right of the blown gasket cylinder has a lot less threads for the spark plug. It could be the angle that the picture was taken, but it looks like almost no threads are left.

GPatrick wrote:

I would have bet on an intake gasket but there is no question what failed.  No telling how the heads were torqued last time but to avoid one potential source of uneven or improper torque, get a bottoming tap and clean out each head bolt hole.  If there is rust or junk down in the holes, you will get a false torque reading when the bolt runs into the junk and are not clamping the head.  A standard tap with a taper will not clean up the very bottom threads so make sure you get a bottoming type.

Take care running taps.  I broke one off in a big block.  Not much fun that day.  Spent 2 hours and 3 carbide bits reaming it out.  I can still hear a slight ringing in my ears from the air drill.....  I can say for sure I did not think highly of my decision to clean and bottom tap the threads at that point.   Still, it is a good idea and will ensure correct torque settings.

Just dont rush it..
 

SA69Mach wrote:

GPatrick wrote:

I would have bet on an intake gasket but there is no question what failed.  No telling how the heads were torqued last time but to avoid one potential source of uneven or improper torque, get a bottoming tap and clean out each head bolt hole.  If there is rust or junk down in the holes, you will get a false torque reading when the bolt runs into the junk and are not clamping the head.  A standard tap with a taper will not clean up the very bottom threads so make sure you get a bottoming type.

Take care running taps.  I broke one off in a big block.  Not much fun that day.  Spent 2 hours and 3 carbide bits reaming it out.  I can still hear a slight ringing in my ears from the air drill.....  I can say for sure I did not think highly of my decision to clean and bottom tap the threads at that point.   Still, it is a good idea and will ensure correct torque settings.

Just dont rush it..
 

Also, its best not to use regular taps to clean up existing threads for critical bolt holes.  A regular tap will always cut metal, and the bolt will be looser.  Usually that's not a big issue, but threaded holes like head and main bolts should be chased with thread restorer taps like these: http://www.autoserviceprofessional.com/article/94859/Thread-chasing-Restoring-male-or-female-fastener-threads?Page=2.
If you don't want to buy thread restorers, you can do this to a grade 8 bolt instead: http://www.instructables.com/id/Inexpensive-thread-chaser/.  Just use some oil.

Well Guy's I found these heads all ready done I'm going to pick them up Saturday Morning I know the price is a bit high but it's up here in Canada I will let You's know how eveything works out

That's not too much for a set of rebuilt heads.  The machine work and parts will be near that cost. Go get them and get the ole girl back on the road

Be sure this tab on the head gasket is in front.  Most gaskets have FRONT stamped in them so the water passages come out right.

Just curious, but how are you getting gasoline to the secondary bowl of your carburetor?  Was the picture taken before you completed the fuel lines?

Double pumper or vacuum secondaries has nothing to do with it.  It is not like the old Holleys that had a tube connecting the front and rear bowls.  The bowls are similar to a double pumper on your carb, although vacuum operated secondaries.

That Quick Fuel carb requires a fuel line to the front and rear bowls, not just to the front.  There is no connection to the rear bowl.  But, you will figure that out the first time the secondaries try to open, even if they are vacuum operated.  Note the fuel level sight glass on the secondaries.  There is no fuel in that bowl. I am not going to ask how you set the float level because I think I probably already know the answer.

You need a line connecting the two bowls down the passenger side if you are going to feed it from the driver side.

Mustang Steve I found this in my garage Is this what I need for my carburator

If you use that dual feed line, check the flare on the back bowl - it looks like it has a ding on its edge.  BTW, I never use these and just make my own using brass fittings.  Let me know if you want to see a picture.

JKordzi Yes I would like to see a picture of the fittings You made cause I hve other Projects on the go Thank's

gotstang wrote:

JKordzi Yes I would like to see a picture of the fittings You made cause I hve other Projects on the go Thank's

Here you go.  The fuel line is 3/8" stainless steel and the junction block is brass.  I may put a bend in the lines to the bowles so the line doesn't lay on the heater hose.


 

Last edited by jkordzi (5/09/2015 8:09 AM)