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i bought a 89 mustang for a donner car.i bought it knowing that the privious owner had not been able to get it to start after relacing the starter sol.. i was told that the battery was never disconnected while the starter sol. was replaced and after that the car would not start. he then burned up the starter trying to grt thr car to start. the put on a new starter. any ideas as to why this problem would happen and what to look for?
Last edited by val fulesday (6/10/2015 4:22 AM)
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I first do some simple troubeshooting.
First determine if the sparks plugs are firing.
Second, determine if the fuel delivery system is working........can you hear the fuel pump energize when you turn the key to on?
Is there fuel pressure at the fuel rail?
The previous owner: are you certain that replacing the starter was all he monkeyed with?
Was it hit/in an accident?
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at some point the car had been hit in the front and repaired (not very well) but the car had run after that.
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If the solenoid was replaced I would first check all the wiring in that area to make sure everything is connected properly to where it should be. I bet you find at least one wire that's not in the right place.
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i have already done that, i also removed wires that don't belong there such as stero ect. hooked my batt. up and nothing. so i jumpered the across the sol. and got the car to turn over, it almost fired, the starter sounded like it was grinding rocks, then nothing, like the starter locked up. i will remover the starter and put a spare on that i have and see what happens, i think i have another sol., the old style and see what happens.
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If its been sitting, particularly with the ethanol that's in today's gas I would pull the injectors and send them out to be sonic cleaned and tested. If two injectors don't fire sequentially in the firing order nothing on Earth will make that engine run.
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it became obvious to me that the original starter solenoid was bad, so i jumpered around it and the car turned over, it almost fired. then it sounded like the starter bound up. so i grabed a starter i had from a 90 mustang an put it in, also put an OLD STYLE sol. in and tried to turn it over all it did spin the starter, it did not engage into the fly wheel. i had the old starter tested and it tested ok. my question is will the old style sol. work with the 89 car. why didn't the 90 starter engage and what do i need to look for?
Last edited by val fulesday (6/10/2015 9:35 PM)
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The old style solenoid should work just fine...it's just a high current relay and as long as you connnect the start wire to the correct lug...which you must have done or it wouldn't spin the starter...it should work. Sounds like the starter drive on the 90 starter is bad or perhaps the starter is not compatible with the ring gear. There were a couple of different ones in those years. Make sure the 90 and the one you pulled off have the same tooth count on the drive gear.
And...X2 for the injectors. Mine clogged up in less than a year of setting. They just varnish up and won't open....chineeze gas!
BB
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i found the ign.switch was falling apart. replaced it and that didn't help at all. while it was apart i check to see if there was any voltage to the batt. terminals on the wiring there was not. so i am just about at wits end on this part of the project. i am thinking about moving on with the plan to remove the engine and trans and selling off the rest of the car.
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torque converter could be locked up. making it difficult to turn the engine over.
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did i fail to mention that it is a T5. fed up with it i'm going to pull the engine and trans, throw a carb on it and call it done. i'll start it before i put it in the car.
Last edited by val fulesday (6/11/2015 9:05 PM)
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I would try to spin the engine over by hand to make sure there isn't an internal issue. Pulling the plugs will make it easier.
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i did that very thing yesterday, engine is suposed to be rebuilt about 1k ago and i was told it has been warmed up a bit from stock including thegt 40 heads and cam.
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Any idea which GT40 heads they are? I only point it out because the GT40P heads have raised exhaust ports that may make header fitment harder. The P heads came on Explorers from the factory, but I'm not sure of the production run. They were the last of the 5.0 Explorers though.
Ditto the cam, and I only ask because the stock springs in the GT40 heads only take so much lift. It sounds like the previous owner was a real genius, so I wouldn't take it for granted that he checked to see that the springs weren't binding, or that he bought a cam that would work with stock springs. When buying a used motor that someone else has modified these are the kinds of things to be concerned about.
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TKOPerformance wrote:
Any idea which GT40 heads they are? I only point it out because the GT40P heads have raised exhaust ports that may make header fitment harder. The P heads came on Explorers from the factory, but I'm not sure of the production run. They were the last of the 5.0 Explorers though.
Ditto the cam, and I only ask because the stock springs in the GT40 heads only take so much lift. It sounds like the previous owner was a real genius, so I wouldn't take it for granted that he checked to see that the springs weren't binding, or that he bought a cam that would work with stock springs. When buying a used motor that someone else has modified these are the kinds of things to be concerned about.
X-2.........I'd pull it down and check behind this dude. Find out what cam is in it. A tight LSA 107*...108*...110*.. works good in a T-5 car. Check for spring bind too.
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thanks for the heads up, i know very little about the gt 40 and the gt 40p heads, i do know that the gt 40 p head is less desireable because of header fitment issues. i don't know what the clearences should be on the valve springs and i have no way of figuring out what cam is in the car. the owner of the car died a couple of years ago and the father is a mopar guy. while he seems to be a nice guy all he could tell me is the car only has about a 1K miles on the motor, and the car runs relly well when it's warmed up.
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this is what the e bay add said when the car was listed. 302 roller, gt 40 heads,cobra intake,bigger cam rockers and injectors, t5 trans., 3:55 rear in lincoln d/b housing. (i don't know what the lincoln d/b housing is)
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Lincoln Disc Brake housing is my guess...
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Yeah, it probably got a Lincoln Versailles rear end. They used to be the easiest way to get rear discs on a 9" rear in a Ford. Now they're getting rare in the wrecking yards, and there are other options. If you've got one though, rock on, they're a great rear with decent brakes. Certainly way better than the factory drums.
Here's a good link with info on vavlesprings, including coil bind:
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val fulesday wrote:
thanks for the heads up, i know very little about the gt 40 and the gt 40p heads, i do know that the gt 40 p head is less desireable because of header fitment issues. i don't know what the clearences should be on the valve springs and i have no way of figuring out what cam is in the car. the owner of the car died a couple of years ago and the father is a mopar guy. while he seems to be a nice guy all he could tell me is the car only has about a 1K miles on the motor, and the car runs relly well when it's warmed up.
Sometimes the bigger cam companies have their name stamped on end of cam with a number. Call cam co. and give them the number....they should be able to give all the specs.
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i'll look at some point, thanks for that bit of information.
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what are the identifying marks to tell a standard head from a GT 40 head and a GT 40 P head?
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val fulesday wrote:
what are the identifying marks to tell a standard head from a GT 40 head and a GT 40 P head?
Val.
GT40 heads have 3 vertical bars cast on the end of the head.
GT40P heads have 4 bars...
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josh, i bought this car out of clute, just a little texas drive, clute is 50 miles south of houston. thanks for the information perhaps i can get home tomarow and check the heads out.
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Good luck......
If I remember correctly, it may be hard to see the "bars" when the alternator and AC pump are installed.
I was able to count by "feel" the bars on the firewall side when the engine was still in the car.
I have a set of GT40P heads I'm going to run on the "roller" engine I have.
BTW: fiveohinfo.com is a good resource for further info and Alexsparts.com is great for valve springs, etc
Last edited by josh-kebob (6/16/2015 11:29 AM)
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