Gotta second what Steve says, the stock geometry is really good with the Shelby drop. The basic early Mustang front end had great potential, far better than any late model strut junk! With the shelby drop, the camber curve is pretty good for all but the most agressive street driven tires. I would still have the stock stuff except I could not resist getting rid of the shock towers so I can run some real headers. I put in the Mustang II stuff with custom A-arms to get a more agressive camber curve for my track tires. I run as much as 5 degrees negative camber at rest. This sucker will go around corners. When I am not going to the track though, I run less than 1 degree of static camber and make sure both sides are the same. I run 8 degrees of positive caster. On the stock stuff, I always set as much positive caster as I could get on the side with the least possible and made sure both sides were the same. Bottom line is the basic stock stuff in good shape with the drop is GOOD stuff!

I can't dispute information from the othe otherfolks However 65 GRANADA V8 spindles Shelby,DropProgressive spsrimgsand use Poly-strutrod bushings1/16 toe or 0  3+caster

John wrote:

DC wrote:

When I am not going to the track though, I run less than 1 degree of static camber and make sure both sides are the same. I run 8 degrees of positive caster.

How do you manage 8 degrees?  I'm not at that stage of assy yet, but I'm shooting for 5 degrees on my 66, but don't really know if it's possible.  I've moved the shafts in the uppers one turn, and will try to locate the Arning drop holes back a bit if I can be sure to get the nuts on the back, but I don't want to force the lower arms forward.

John

 I am running 5 degrees positive caster on my 66 now. I have a set of Glen's adjustable strut rods.  I have three degrees from shimming, plus another two by shortening the LCA.  If you do this, be sure to tack weld the LCA inner bushing so it cannot slide out of the LCA.  Mine started moving, so I recentered them and added a very small tack weld just to keep them from sliding.  (I now have stock 66 V8 spindles).  I noted very little inprovement, if any from the extra caster, so when I rebuild the front end, I am going back to about 3-4 degrees caster to avoid the stress placed on the LCA bushing.  If you get all the adjustment on the UCA, the LCA bushing will not be stressed.

I'm building a '67 coupe for my son and have been considering the granada spindle and brake package with the arning drop any suggestions pro or con. Would like to keep the '67 styled steel wheels if I could.

I'm starting to lean toward stock 67 set up using Drake caliper brackets and reman parts seems cheaper than a lot of those kits.

bulletbirdman wrote:

I'm building a '67 coupe for my son and have been considering the granada spindle and brake package with the arning drop any suggestions pro or con. Would like to keep the '67 styled steel wheels if I could.

 67-73 Mustangs and Granada spindles have the same geometry, so a 67 will drive like it should with Granada spindles on it.  You will have an issue getting those stock 67 SS wheels on it though.  See my Granada brake page for requirements.  Basically you have to have the "snout" of the rotor around the outer bearing turned down to same dimensions as the stock 67 hub.  Then use longer studs and a 1/4" spacer.  Might have to grind a little on the calipers, but it will work.  I have done it before.