Welcome to FYIFORD.  Glad you found us.

That will be a great swap.  Probably the most complicated part is the fuel pump system.  I went through an EFI swap recently and after many trials and tribulations bought one of those PHANTOM EFI in-tank pumps. I am convinced that is the most trouble-free solution, albeit fairly expensive. Even at $400, it still emilinated a ton of headaches.

Stock motor mounts will bolt up from your Mustang.  A new tranny crossmember is required.

The rest of the EFI system will work fine on your car.  You will need a different oil pan, a front-sump version like one from an older 289 or 302, plus a different timing cover so you can move the oil dipstick to the front.  Then that changes the water pump and maybe the pulleys.  Also plug the existing dipstick hole in the side of the block with 1/8" pipe plug.  The accessory drives are a little weird on the Explorer and I am not that familiar with them, so will let somebody else that has dealt directly with that part help you out.  I would get shorty headers or 289 Hipo manifolds specific to your car, but they may be hard to find to match up to the Explorer's heads.  The heads have a different spark plug angle but are the best stock heads Ford made.  Hopefully someone can verify if the HIPO manifolds fit or not.  I hav not tried them on the Explorer heads.

Bullet Bob just got through narrowing that same rear end for his 66, so I bet you can find something by searching on NARROW 8.8 or NARROW EXPLORER within thisi forum. Hopefully you have the 4R70W transmission.  Tubo knows alot about those and you can search 4R70W on this forum.  Hopefully that works.  If not, I am sure you will get lots of help with your project here.

Last edited by MustangSteve (7/23/2015 1:21 PM)

I'm setting her trying to thing of stuff that won't work on that swap but if done properly and carefully, I don't think there is much.  First...and foremost, welcome to the best place on the web, I think you be glad you found it.

I believe that exploder has the 104 pin, EEC-V OBD2 PCM with trans control built in and EDIS (Electron Distributorless Ignition System), and possibly some sort of passive anti-theft system.  I don't think it has the single pipe fuel system (these control fuel pressure by varying the voltage to the fuel pump) so setting up the fuel system shouldn't be too much trouble.  I have been running a Walbro pump externally mounted with a stock late Ford filter.  The pump is mounted about even with the fuel sender and draws right out of the stock 66 fuel pickup without problems.  It's also quiet (mounted in rubber).  I ran a mirror image line on the right side and used the stock fuel line on the left for fuel return.  NOTE:  I found out the hard way that a two-way tank vent is necessary with a circulating fuel system.  The returning fuel transports a lot of heat into the tank and if it can't breath OUT, it will swell up like a beach ball...don't ax how I nos.  Having said all that, I agree with MS that if you don't mind spending the $$, the custom in-tank setup is a good system but it still will need to be able to breath.

The stock Explorer harness can  be modified to do what you need.  Just take your time...unwrapping it is the most trouble...and remove all the crap you won't need such as impact sensors, and ABS wiring.  If they are still in business, an outfit called "The Detail Zone"...a div. of Ron Francis Wireworks...was very helpful when I did a Cobra harness for 68Mustang.  They will help you stay out of deep water and will do a re-program on the PCM to remove passive anti-theft if necessary...not cheap, they quoted $350 about four years ago but if you have passive anti-theft you'll probably need the re-prog on the computer.

You say you are on a tight budget so keeping the Exp. stuff pretty well stock will probably be best.  The secondary air injection system is pretty easy to remove and fake the computer.  The EGR is a bit more difficult and other than cleaning up the look of the engine up, really does nothing to help performance.  In fact, removing it likely will take a small bite out of fuel economy.

I recommend you do a lot of reading before tackling this unless you have done a lot of fabricating and wiring work.  It's not over difficult but there is a lot to it and that can be frustrating to the un-initiated...or to the deeply initiated, right Mike W, Steve J, Barry K, Corky P, James W, and all the other EFI heads out there.

Take your time, think each step through, ask loads of questions, and you'll get 'er dun.

Oh...and come to the Bash.  Some of the best legal fun you can have.

BB

 

Thanks for the help. Is there any way of using the explorer wire harness to work the efi and the transmission

Welcome to the forum.

If the engine is from a pre-'97.5 5.0L Explorer, it will have the GT40 (3-bar) heads.

If the engine is from a '97.5-up Explorer, the heads will be the GT40P (4-bar) versions that were used through 2001, when production of the Explorers ended.

To see what version the heads are, look at the front (or back ends) of the head castings. You will see a series of vertical 'bars' cast onto the ends.

This is a pair of GT40P Explorer 5.0L heads I have that came from a '97.5-2001 Explorer. Notice the 4-bars cast into the ends. (Pre-'97.5 Explorer 5.0L GT40 heads will have 3-bars in this same location).







The '97 Explorer would have a 4R70W transmission. Unfortunately, it missed being the more desirable version by one year --the better versions are from '98-up. Even so, it would be better than a C-4.

The better 4R70Ws will have a black plastic bulkhead connector sticking up out of the case, at the right, rear portion of the transmission, just above the transmission pan. If the bulkhead connector is white, it's the less desirable '97-earleir version of the 4R70W.

Location of the bulkhead connector (this is my 4R70W from a '98 3.8L Mustang that will be going in my 1969 Ford F100 short bed Ranger --currently, I'm in the process of modifying/rebuilding it).



Notice the connector is black.

Tubo wrote:

Bullet Bob wrote:

Okay Corky, what am I forgetting that would preclude using the EECV system with this complete swap.  If he keeps the EDIS and EGR, faking out the PCM for Sec. Air  removal is not hard.  Even if he has to go  to Detail Zone for a re-burn to remove anti-theft it would be cheaper than buying a Baumann box and swapping to the EECIV.  Just sayin...what did I forget, I'm sure there was sumpin.

BB

Yup BB yer right! Mor'n one way to skin a cat & all.
I just get so used to what I had done, I tend to fergit what I could'a done and didn't, first. Then I fergit what I had done.
 So in answer to your question, "I fergits"
darrell34reed@att.net Listen to BB, he'll set Ya right. And UltraSteve(aka Ultrstang) is purdy good fer info too. Butt he hasen't had a Mustang that runs in YEARS.

Tubo
 

Not true. I have an Azure Blue 2003 Mach 1 that has been fully operable since I bought it new in November '03.

....My '68 hasn't run in many moons but, regardless, I still knowz what I knowz, whether it runs or not.  Ha ha
 

Thanks for all the advice you have all been  very helpful. I feel pretty comfortable with most of the swap except for the wiring and computer. I called detail zone and they no longer re program the computer. If anyone knows of sombody that can reprogram the computer please let me know . Thanks again for all the help

So, if its a 4WD Explorer, witll the trans work as is, or will a 2WD tailshaft swap be necessary? (If thats even possible)

Bullet Bob wrote:

Hey Ultra,

What is the diff between the early and later 4R70W?  I had a 97 F150 and the only trans trouble it gave in 170K miles was the 1-2 servo jammed up around 70K 'cause Ford though it would be a good idea to use an aluminum piston in an aluminum bore...duh, does the term galling mean anything?  So, is that the difference?  If so, it can be fixed fairly easy.

BB

There were a number of improvements made starting with the '98 model 4R's, compared to the '93-'97 models. I can't recall all of them off the top of my head but, some that I can recall;

The wiring inside the transmission to the solenoids went to a moulded hardwire frame, instead of individual wires going to the connectors.

Gears, input and output shafts were made stronger with better alloy materials --if you were going to run a power adder, such as nitrous, turbo or supercharger, the higher grade alloys of the '98-up transmissions are better suited to handle the greater engine output from these.

Some of the passages in the valve body separator plate were opened up by the factory, in accordance with those mods prescribed in the J-Mod by Jerry Wroblewski (one of the Ford engineers that designed the 4R70W, and for whom the 'J-Mod' is named after).  With a 4R70W, you don't have to spend any money on an aftermarket shift kit. The J-Mod is all you need to do --simple, effective and VERY inexpensive.

Earlier models require (I believe) 11 passages in the separator plate to be modified. On my '98 model, I only had to modify 6 holes when I J-Modded it.

Here, I've located the holes on the separator plate to be opened up, circled them and wrote the diameter out beside each hole for them to be drilled out to.

 

Pre-'98 models had a one way clutch (some call a 'sprag') that was somewhat problematic. '98-up models received a much better and stronger mechanical diode in place of the OWC.

Accumulators changed from the aluminum type to the moulded rubber.

Clutch materials were also improved in '98.

Ohms ratings changed on the solenoids so, be sure you have the right ohms rated solenoids for the particular transmission being used. --some wiring pinouts also changed in '98.

I'm sure there are more things that changed. These are just the primary things I can think of at the moment. There were even more factory changes to these transmissions after 1998. There's tons of information on the web for this transmission. If someone is thinking of installing a 4R70W, the best thing to do is a websearch and just read all you can find on the subject.

ultrastang wrote:

darren wrote:

So, if its a 4WD Explorer, witll the trans work as is, or will a 2WD tailshaft swap be necessary? (If thats even possible)

A 4WD output shaft is much shorter than a 2WD output shaft and a 4WD output shaft has no teeth machined into it for a speedometer driven gear/speed sensor.

Splines are longer on 2WD because the drive shaft slip yoke has to have enough length to slide on the splines. 4WD output shaft connects directly to the transfer case within a (very short) extension (tail) housing --no yoke sliding back and forth on the 4WD output shaft splines.

Longer 2WD 4R70W output shaft compared to shorter 4WD output shaft.

http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/503/DSCN6589.JPG 


Difference in 2WD extension housing on left compared to 4WD extension housing on right.

http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/503/medium/DSCN6601.JPG

There are also two different length 2WD output shafts and two different length 2WD extension housings. Crown Vic and some other Ford vehicles got the longer output shafts/extension housings. Mustangs got the shorter version. --you would just need to do your research to see exactly what all vehicles had the longer output shaft/extension housing version and which had the shorter version.

The output shaft is the first thing that gets installed into the case, when rebuilding the transmission. This means in order to change the output shaft, EVERYTHING has to come out of the case, first, to get to it.

Cliff's Notes: If its out of a 4WD Explorer, it would probably be easier to find a different trans. Preferably from a 1998 or newer.
 

Mine is 2wd

Earlier in this thread I suggested swapping out the tailshaft on a 4R70W, and instead use a short  AOD tailshaft houing and T-5 yoke. Difference between an AODE and 4R70 is the 4R70 uses a larger od yoke. The splined out put shaft is the same size as C-4, Aod, AODE, and T5. T-5 yokes are splined all the way to the yoke tube opening, and are thus stronger tha the shorter internal splined 4R70down through C-4 Yokes. the 4R70 yoke also has a large harmonic ballancer ring the can interfere with trans tunnel clearance.
BTW the W in 4R70W is for wide ratio gearset. Lower 1st & 2nd gear that the rest of the AOD family.

Tubo

ultrastang wrote:

Bullet Bob wrote:

Hey Ultra,

What is the diff between the early and later 4R70W?  I had a 97 F150 and the only trans trouble it gave in 170K miles was the 1-2 servo jammed up around 70K 'cause Ford though it would be a good idea to use an aluminum piston in an aluminum bore...duh, does the term galling mean anything?  So, is that the difference?  If so, it can be fixed fairly easy.

BB

There were a number of improvements made starting with the '98 model 4R's, compared to the '93-'97 models. I can't recall all of them off the top of my head but, some that I can recall;

The wiring inside the transmission to the solenoids went to a moulded hardwire frame, instead of individual wires going to the connectors.

Gears, input and output shafts were made stronger with better alloy materials --if you were going to run a power adder, such as nitrous, turbo or supercharger, the higher grade alloys of the '98-up transmissions are better suited to handle the greater engine output from these.

Some of the passages in the valve body separator plate were opened up by the factory, in accordance with those mods prescribed in the J-Mod by Jerry Wroblewski (one of the Ford engineers that designed the 4R70W, and for whom the 'J-Mod' is named after). With a 4R70W, you don't have to spend any money on an aftermarket shift kit. The J-Mod is all you need to do --simple, effective and VERY inexpensive.

Earlier models require (I believe) 11 passages in the separator plate to be modified. On my '98 model, I only had to modify 6 holes when I J-Modded it.

Here, I've located the holes on the separator plate to be opened up, circled them and wrote the diameter out beside each hole for them to be drilled out to.

 

Pre-'98 models had a one way clutch (some call a 'sprag') that was somewhat problematic. '98-up models received a much better and stronger mechanical diode in place of the OWC.

Accumulators changed from the aluminum type to the moulded rubber.

Clutch materials were also improved in '98.

Ohms ratings changed on the solenoids so, be sure you have the right ohms rated solenoids for the particular transmission being used. --some wiring pinouts also changed in '98.

I'm sure there are more things that changed. These are just the primary things I can think of at the moment. There were even more factory changes to these transmissions after 1998. There's tons of information on the web for this transmission. If someone is thinking of installing a 4R70W, the best thing to do is a websearch and just read all you can find on the subject.

I did the separator plate mod on my valve body, but I also installed a shift improvement kit, as I had some internal pistons that were worn/scored. As long as you are in there......