| ||
Visit MustangSteve's web site to view some of my work and find details for: FYIFORD Contributors' PICTURES - Power Brake Retrofit Kits for 65-66 Stangs - Classic Mustang FAQ's by MustangSteve - How to wire in a Duraspark Ignition - Mustang Ride Height Pictures and Descriptions - Steel Bushings to fit Granada Spindles to Mustang Tie Rods - Visit my EBAY store MustangSteve Performance - How to Install Granada Disc Brakes MustangSteve's Disc Brake Swap Page - FYIFORD Acronyms for guide to all the acronyms used on this page - FYIFORD Important information and upcoming events |
1 2 Jump to
Offline
Struts are a step backwards for our Mustangs! There I said it again! The camber curves SUCK! The early suspension with the Shelby drop is much better. Struts were only developed to make building cars on the assembly line CHEAP!!! If you are going to that much trouble, hack out the shock towers and put in a real cross member with upper and lower a-arms. Then you got room for a real motor with real headers!!
Offline
The part in that guy's message that made the most sense to me was that a strut uses a longer stroke, more directly acting on the ball joint. The shock system, with its lever action UCA, uses much less of the shock's length. It makes sense that a shock using more of its length will be more effective than a shock only using a small percentage of its stroke. Kind of like a bourdon tube gauge... The larger the percentage of the gauge's dial that is utilized for a reading, the more accurate that reading will be.
I may have to go watch the video again, because that old guy was totally convonced the original Mustang spindle would never get a good camber curve, and the strut was better. What did I miss? He seemed to know what he was talking about.
Now, I am the first in line to state "convince me" that a different design suspension is necessary to get good performance from an early Mustang. So far, no one has stepped up and said "Let's go for a ride in this" to show me how much the suspension has been improved. I do know my 07 GT handles alot better than my 66 with the Shelby drop and R&P, but it does make alot of clunking noises that I can't stand at the same time. Hopefully new Koni shocks and Shelby strut mounts will cure the noise. Shocks are on backorder, so it may be a while...
Offline
Here yah go 2013 Boss laguna seca
Offline
I dont know if I totally agree with that DC. My old 79 Mustang could out handle and out drive my 69 Mustang any day of the week with the Cheap Strut System. Depending on what system you choose you dont have to cut or change the shock tower. The RRS System they use the same style lower control arm so there is no change there.
Steve69
Offline
MS is this a Fox Body modified spindle or one that Gateway Produced?
Offline
Steve69 wrote:
MS is this a Fox Body modified spindle or one that Gateway Produced?
Well, it is definitely a fabricated spindle. Since the guys from Gateway never returned my emails, I bet you know which list they are on as far as I am concerned. Notice the camber adjustment slot in the bottom of the strut? That is so easy to do. I don't see why ANYBODY buys those camber plate kits for $300 on the newer cars...
Offline
Done a lot of reading about all this over the last coupla weeks. I'm with DC.
Offline
MustangSteve wrote:
Steve69 wrote:
MS is this a Fox Body modified spindle or one that Gateway Produced?
Well, it is definitely a fabricated spindle. Since the guys from Gateway never returned my emails, I bet you know which list they are on as far as I am concerned. Notice the camber adjustment slot in the bottom of the strut? That is so easy to do. I don't see why ANYBODY buys those camber plate kits for $300 on the newer cars...
I tried to contact them on Facebook after no reply with email. I wanted to know about there coyote engine mounts. I cant believe the $2300 price tag for a spindles, Struts and standard Brakes. Thought there might be another way to do it for less $.
Offline
On my strut equiped Mustang, I have to run almost 5 degrees of negative camber at ride height just to get the tires to work well. There is virtually no increase in negative camber when the wheel travels up. On my 65 with upper and lower control arms set to increase negative camber 1.25 degrees per inch of bounce, I only need to run 1.5 degrees of negative camber at rest. I get to these settings by taking tire temperatures coming off of the track after several hot laps. I try to get the temps correct all the way across the tire. On the strut set-up with that much static camber, the inner shoulder of the inside tire takes a lot of grief (wear). It also adds rolling resistance. The unequal length control arms on the 65 are much better for handling and tire wear. The struts are just cheap! If the rules would let me I would put the 65 suspension on the 95!
1 2 Jump to
REMEMBER!!! When posting a question about your Mustang or other Ford on this forum, BE SURE to tell us what it is, what year, engine, etc so we have enough information to go on. |